Very nice work, Passfan!
I like each and every one of 'em - very nice work indeed!!
Hey, those yellow boxes on the sidelines look awfully familiar - I have about half a dozen 6SL7's packed in 'em myself!
They're the same brand I'm using in my 2A3 right now:
http://home.earthlink.net/~shidenkai/index.html
So, are you using 6SL7's or 6SN7's in the SE 6L6? And if 6SN7's, what do you think of the old yellow box Reflektor 6SN7? I've thought of buying some for future amps.....
All the best,
Morse
I like each and every one of 'em - very nice work indeed!!
Hey, those yellow boxes on the sidelines look awfully familiar - I have about half a dozen 6SL7's packed in 'em myself!
They're the same brand I'm using in my 2A3 right now: http://home.earthlink.net/~shidenkai/index.html
So, are you using 6SL7's or 6SN7's in the SE 6L6? And if 6SN7's, what do you think of the old yellow box Reflektor 6SN7? I've thought of buying some for future amps.....
All the best,
Morse
Morse said:Very nice work, Passfan!
I like each and every one of 'em - very nice work indeed!!
Hey, those yellow boxes on the sidelines look awfully familiar - I have about half a dozen 6SL7's packed in 'em myself!
http://home.earthlink.net/~shidenkai/index.html
So, are you using 6SL7's or 6SN7's in the SE 6L6? And if 6SN7's, what do you think of the old yellow box Reflektor 6SN7? I've thought of buying some for future amps.....
All the best,
Morse
I see you also know your way around the woodshop as well. Excellent work, and thanks for sharing.
Those are the 6SL7 drivers that are used in that amp. Those tubes will surprise you when they burn in as you well know. I think they are a bargain and the 6L6GC monoblocks I am about to start will use a pair of them and a pair of the 6SN7s in the driver stages. I also have a pair of Phillips JAN 6SL7s that I use in that other amp that are excellent as well but they obviously cost a bit more.
Frank - >>>Does anyone know of an effective product to clean away electrolyte goo BTW?<<<
Since the electrolyte used is a base, I would try something with a relatively low ph like "GooGone", which uses citric acid as the active ingredient. I've never tried it myself though, so I can't really make a recommendation (for the record, I have no connection with the manufacturer of that product nor do I sell it). Were I to have a board that was contaminated with a burst 'lytic, I'd start with something like that, then wash it with water (assuming there were no parts on the board that could be damaged that way, natuerlich!!). Finally, I'd check it with ph strips to see that I'd managed to restore a nice ph neutral board afterward to prevent corrosion.
PassFan - Thanks! Yep, I love the look of a wood chassis on my electronics. It's one of the things I miss most from the old days! What are you using for a top plate, by the way? It looks suspiciously like copper (drool, drool). If so, are you applying a clearcoat to prevent oxidation? Can you recommend a brand - that 6AQ5/12AV7 I keep talking about may get off the ground in the next couple of months and I'm tentatively planning on mounting the valves on a brass top plate I lucked into.
By the way, how would you say that the JAN Philips 6SL7's stack up to the yellow box Reflektors? I'm going to be ordering up more 6SL7's soon and am torn between the two brands.
All the best to one and all,
Morse
Since the electrolyte used is a base, I would try something with a relatively low ph like "GooGone", which uses citric acid as the active ingredient. I've never tried it myself though, so I can't really make a recommendation (for the record, I have no connection with the manufacturer of that product nor do I sell it). Were I to have a board that was contaminated with a burst 'lytic, I'd start with something like that, then wash it with water (assuming there were no parts on the board that could be damaged that way, natuerlich!!). Finally, I'd check it with ph strips to see that I'd managed to restore a nice ph neutral board afterward to prevent corrosion.
PassFan - Thanks! Yep, I love the look of a wood chassis on my electronics. It's one of the things I miss most from the old days! What are you using for a top plate, by the way? It looks suspiciously like copper (drool, drool). If so, are you applying a clearcoat to prevent oxidation? Can you recommend a brand - that 6AQ5/12AV7 I keep talking about may get off the ground in the next couple of months and I'm tentatively planning on mounting the valves on a brass top plate I lucked into.
By the way, how would you say that the JAN Philips 6SL7's stack up to the yellow box Reflektors? I'm going to be ordering up more 6SL7's soon and am torn between the two brands.
All the best to one and all,
Morse
Morse:
My top plate is actually aluminum. I spray it with a copper laquer and then a gloss laquer clearcote to make it shine. I use laquer because of the shortened dry time and the hard finish. As far as brand you will be better off experimenting with some scrap as different surfaces interact differently with different paints and laquers. Right now I'm using the house brand from Ace Hardware. It is a little thinner than what I've been using and it goes on better. The thinner a laquer is the smoother it goes on and the faster it dries. I can usually spray 10 coats in an hour easy, with each coat drying in between.
Those reflektors as you call them are the best deal I've found for the money hands down. The JAN Phillips sound smoother in the mids/highs but for the money, I'm putting the Russians in my monoblocks. It's good to have different types so one can listen and judge the differences for himself.
My top plate is actually aluminum. I spray it with a copper laquer and then a gloss laquer clearcote to make it shine. I use laquer because of the shortened dry time and the hard finish. As far as brand you will be better off experimenting with some scrap as different surfaces interact differently with different paints and laquers. Right now I'm using the house brand from Ace Hardware. It is a little thinner than what I've been using and it goes on better. The thinner a laquer is the smoother it goes on and the faster it dries. I can usually spray 10 coats in an hour easy, with each coat drying in between.
Those reflektors as you call them are the best deal I've found for the money hands down. The JAN Phillips sound smoother in the mids/highs but for the money, I'm putting the Russians in my monoblocks. It's good to have different types so one can listen and judge the differences for himself.
Passfan;
Thanks for the info on the finish! That's quite a pleasing effect you achieved, and it's a good deal cheaper than either getting the aluminium hardcoat anodized or going to 1/4" copper! I'll probably experiment with lacquer clearcoats on a bit on a piece of scrap brass after I mirror polish it.
Thanks also for the comparison of the 6SL7's. By the way, it's my understanding that the yellow box 6LS7's are made at the same "Reflektor Works" factory that currently makes SovTek valves. My Reflektors are all date coded from '87 and I recently bought a pair of new manufacture SovTek 6SL7's - yep, they're identical in all respects to the eye anyway. I've not had a chance to try 'em out for sound yet so we'll see....
All the best,
Morse
Thanks for the info on the finish! That's quite a pleasing effect you achieved, and it's a good deal cheaper than either getting the aluminium hardcoat anodized or going to 1/4" copper! I'll probably experiment with lacquer clearcoats on a bit on a piece of scrap brass after I mirror polish it.
Thanks also for the comparison of the 6SL7's. By the way, it's my understanding that the yellow box 6LS7's are made at the same "Reflektor Works" factory that currently makes SovTek valves. My Reflektors are all date coded from '87 and I recently bought a pair of new manufacture SovTek 6SL7's - yep, they're identical in all respects to the eye anyway. I've not had a chance to try 'em out for sound yet so we'll see....
All the best,
Morse
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