One of the connectors that connect the panel to the electronics of my Martin Logan Prodigy has failed. This is a known issue at ML but they no longer have the connector available.
Does anyone have any ideas how I can remove that resin-like substance that the wires are embedded in? I would like to remove that to access the bare wires/connectors to fix the bad connection.
Or better yet, if anyone knows where I can get a new one that would be amazing. The connector is called Pulse-lok from Alden. Unfortunately ML says it is no longer available.
Does anyone have any ideas how I can remove that resin-like substance that the wires are embedded in? I would like to remove that to access the bare wires/connectors to fix the bad connection.
Or better yet, if anyone knows where I can get a new one that would be amazing. The connector is called Pulse-lok from Alden. Unfortunately ML says it is no longer available.
Seems like Pulse-Lok connectors are still available - https://www.amphenolalden.com/products-solutions/pulse-lok-medical-connectors.
Difficult to tell from the photos which version of Pulse-Lok is being used. Is there a part number on the connector ?
Difficult to tell from the photos which version of Pulse-Lok is being used. Is there a part number on the connector ?
Thanks for the info. I've contacted the local Pulse-lok distributor and will see if they have a replacement that will fit.
If it is hot melt glue, try an edge with a soldering iron. Should melt, with a little smoke sometimes.
And, if you have epoxy or car paint thinner, use a match head size piece of cotton on a tweezers, soak in fluid, touch the mass, might dissolve it.
I personally would use a commonly available connector, those in the automotive field are plentiful and economical, compared to exotics.
And please post a photo of the business end of the thing, next to a measuring tape or steel rule, so we have some idea of the size.
It may be that a nearly correct substitute is easily available...
And, if you have epoxy or car paint thinner, use a match head size piece of cotton on a tweezers, soak in fluid, touch the mass, might dissolve it.
I personally would use a commonly available connector, those in the automotive field are plentiful and economical, compared to exotics.
And please post a photo of the business end of the thing, next to a measuring tape or steel rule, so we have some idea of the size.
It may be that a nearly correct substitute is easily available...
Of course, use a heated soldering iron, a cigarette lighter or match stick is also quite suitable.
Then you can soften it, and cut it with a sharp blade, like those in the break off type utility knives, quite easy, safe for the insulation as well.
It looks like old hot melt or potting compound, the latter is usually epoxy with talcum powder in it for reduced cost and extra rigidity.
Then you can soften it, and cut it with a sharp blade, like those in the break off type utility knives, quite easy, safe for the insulation as well.
It looks like old hot melt or potting compound, the latter is usually epoxy with talcum powder in it for reduced cost and extra rigidity.
Agreed, solvents for epoxy will destroy the wire as well.
They are usually very strongly acidic or alkali compounds, of a strength that will burn skin on contact, you have to be highly trained in order to use them, and those usually dissolve metal.
Best is to cut the wires, put new connectors, of a currently available type.
Red plastic looks faded and degraded to me, might be brittle with age and heat.
So the repair effort may not give durable results.
They are usually very strongly acidic or alkali compounds, of a strength that will burn skin on contact, you have to be highly trained in order to use them, and those usually dissolve metal.
Best is to cut the wires, put new connectors, of a currently available type.
Red plastic looks faded and degraded to me, might be brittle with age and heat.
So the repair effort may not give durable results.
Thats a high voltage connection. It needs to handle 5KV or more. Thats why its potted. It may be potted with Silicone. There are other high voltage connectors that you could use. I doubt you will find a direct mate from a different vendor so you would need to change both ends. There are high voltage connectors but nothing that resembles yours. Many of their connectors are custom and one-off which is probably why Martin-Logan says they aren't available.
You may find something useful here: https://surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/HVWire-2.html
"Are Amphenol Alden high voltage cable assemblies available in distribution?
No, Amphenol Alden high voltage products are not readily available in distribution. All requests are built to order. Be sure to build yours today!"You may find something useful here: https://surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/HVWire-2.html
1audio:
Are you sure about the 5 kV?
Magnepan run their electrostatic speakers at about 350V, the 5 kV would need thicker insulation on the wires, they do not look 6.6 kV class to me, and the dielectric strength of the insulation, and air has to be considered.
I may be wrong, please enlighten me.
Are you sure about the 5 kV?
Magnepan run their electrostatic speakers at about 350V, the 5 kV would need thicker insulation on the wires, they do not look 6.6 kV class to me, and the dielectric strength of the insulation, and air has to be considered.
I may be wrong, please enlighten me.
Magnepans are not electrostatic. They are planar magnetic. https://magnepan.com/pages/about-us For reference the Quad ESL uses 5500V for the bias and peaks of 3-4KV for the audio. Similar for most of the other large electrostatic. Dayton Wright used 20KV.
Its different if the connection is at speaker level but from the description its at panel level.However the connector doesn't look adequate to 5KV or even 2KV. Maybe the panel is just a tweeter.
Its different if the connection is at speaker level but from the description its at panel level.However the connector doesn't look adequate to 5KV or even 2KV. Maybe the panel is just a tweeter.
If it is epoxy, then you can cut it away in slices using a scalpel. If it is polyurethane resin, then there will be a temperature where it will start to soften, so a hair drier can be used. On no account put it in a microwave.
kind regards
Marek
kind regards
Marek
Once a big mistake was made to have slow curing epoxy (for potting of transformers) way over its shelf life to stay in the car. The thought was to mix the 2 components so that I would not have 2 chemical fluids in the car. I was going to get rid of chemical and electronic waste anyway. Problem was that I totally forgot that day even though I brought electronic waste away and the stuff stayed in the car during the night.
Next day the stuff had apparently cooked, cracked the lid and it had spattered against the windshield and the dashboard. Panic. I started using all chemicals I had to get the stuff away especially from the dashboard but not much really helped. Then I started using unconventional things. When I started to use milk, yoghurt and butter the epoxy started to come off. I think the butter was the most successful. Nothing could be seen afterwards. Just saying....
Next day the stuff had apparently cooked, cracked the lid and it had spattered against the windshield and the dashboard. Panic. I started using all chemicals I had to get the stuff away especially from the dashboard but not much really helped. Then I started using unconventional things. When I started to use milk, yoghurt and butter the epoxy started to come off. I think the butter was the most successful. Nothing could be seen afterwards. Just saying....
Is there anything wrong with just replacing both ends of the connection? In that case, there are numerous options.
Methylene chloride dissolves epoxi, dangerous stuff,
but can you not just cut it off and replace with a new connector?
but can you not just cut it off and replace with a new connector?
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There is a thinner called epoxy thinner here, I have used it to successfully bond Poly-carbonate with epoxy, prime the surfaces with it, add to the two part epoxy as well.
Cured epoxy will withstand burning, so it is best to either cut it off, or dive in with mechanical means (and inhale epoxy dust in small amounts).
IIRC methylene chloride is a car paint thinner, worth a try as an epoxy solvent.
Be careful, it is volatile and inflammable.
OP is quiet, I would change the connectors and wires with what is readily available today, rather than buy an expensive obsolete product.
To each his own, however.
Cured epoxy will withstand burning, so it is best to either cut it off, or dive in with mechanical means (and inhale epoxy dust in small amounts).
IIRC methylene chloride is a car paint thinner, worth a try as an epoxy solvent.
Be careful, it is volatile and inflammable.
OP is quiet, I would change the connectors and wires with what is readily available today, rather than buy an expensive obsolete product.
To each his own, however.
I worked at a summer job at a factory that used epoxy to glue fired clay pipes together. They used MEK, now know to be very dangerous. It was used to dissolve the epoxy. This is the chemical of last resort snd worked well as the fired clay is completely inert. So if the connector shell is metal, then putting it into non plastic container would remove the epoxy in very short time. I certainly recommend that you used it outside. In the US in my state I can still buy it at Home Depot .
It may have other used. Will completely strip any paint from metal or from brushes that use natural fiber.
It may have other used. Will completely strip any paint from metal or from brushes that use natural fiber.
Any suggestions for removing silicone potting? All I found suggest cutting which won't work on this application.