Hi all. Im about to build the Ariel speakers version 6 by Lynn Olson and Im planning the work. Im thinking about the stands right now. The Ariels will get quite top-heavy as Im about to fill some compartments with leadshots and sand, so Im going to need a stable stand for that reason only.
What Im not sure about is what a heavy stable stand will do to the sound. It will probably not get any worse.. Perhaps even better. Does anyone have any good theories on stands? I need to learn more. Please look into my website below to see how Im planning to build the stand.
<A HREF="http://www.ariel6.dns2go.com/Stands.htm">Solid stand for floormounters</A>
<A HREF="http://www.ariel6.dns2go.com">My Ariel 6 page</A>
What Im not sure about is what a heavy stable stand will do to the sound. It will probably not get any worse.. Perhaps even better. Does anyone have any good theories on stands? I need to learn more. Please look into my website below to see how Im planning to build the stand.
<A HREF="http://www.ariel6.dns2go.com/Stands.htm">Solid stand for floormounters</A>
<A HREF="http://www.ariel6.dns2go.com">My Ariel 6 page</A>
Making them heavy isn't the only thing to be concerned about. The stands should also be spiked. This creates minimal contact with the floor and provides optimal coupling, which typically provides better bass/mid detail. Also, things such as sand are often used to fill stands not only to make them heavy, but because as vibration travels through them, they can dissipate the energy as heat.
Just make sure everything is tightened securely, and that you have a good set of spikes on there, and your sound is likely to improve.
Just make sure everything is tightened securely, and that you have a good set of spikes on there, and your sound is likely to improve.
On the subject of spikes
Thanks.
Im going to use a clever spike solution I found in Norway. They have a speaker spike with a sharp hard-metal cone is resting on a small piece of rock. Everything is held together in a steel "cup". The bottom of the "cup" could be covered in felt to save the floors even more. The "cup" is hanging in the spike and when you put the speaker down the only contact point between the floor and the speaker is the hard-metal tip against stone.
This would provide a very small contact point with the floor. Much smaller than if you let the spikes rest on the wood floor itself, as the spikes would sink down into the wood and provide a stronger coupling.
You could use small coins or plates under the spikes but the advantage of the norweigan solution is that they are integrated and move together when you move the speaker.
Look at my site if you want to see more on my design : http://www.ariel6.dns2go.com/Stands.htm
thanks for the help.
Thanks.
Im going to use a clever spike solution I found in Norway. They have a speaker spike with a sharp hard-metal cone is resting on a small piece of rock. Everything is held together in a steel "cup". The bottom of the "cup" could be covered in felt to save the floors even more. The "cup" is hanging in the spike and when you put the speaker down the only contact point between the floor and the speaker is the hard-metal tip against stone.
This would provide a very small contact point with the floor. Much smaller than if you let the spikes rest on the wood floor itself, as the spikes would sink down into the wood and provide a stronger coupling.
You could use small coins or plates under the spikes but the advantage of the norweigan solution is that they are integrated and move together when you move the speaker.
Look at my site if you want to see more on my design : http://www.ariel6.dns2go.com/Stands.htm
thanks for the help.
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