Now here is a beauty of a phono stage build. Makes me want to build one, but I blow my money on musical instruments instead.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=149846.0
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=149846.0
It is for dampening. I've seen a few different treatments and in different colors including clear. Some of the concoctions
also have other affect because of what they are made out of. I would have used silicone liquid and a model brush if my
soul purpose was to dampen the build and add vibration control. Longevity at least. As organized as the lay out is, it has a lot of long hard wire hanging in the wind. They will vibrate.
I can't see a mechanical connection at the turret. IF there is none. The purpose of P2P is a mechanical connection and solder to hold the connection. I would rate the builds very close, the difference, one looks better but it is far from a SOTA lay out if the joints are just soldered. The other has boutique parts and a sloppy build.
I'm betting a sniffer would find the buzz pretty quick. I'm sure it's all the antenna in both boxes. A confirmation on the BUZZ, some wire twisting and check the valves for noise. For all you know it could be a location problem of the two boxes in relation to the rest of his equipment. The bigger issue is locating the noise, I just don't think it's that hard with the right tool. Mr. Carlson has a video fixing a pair of SixPac valve amps. In the video he refers to the sniffer and how to make one. I did the modifications on a pair, 6-8 years ago? I still have them. VERY quiet.
I made a sniffer. I'm a mechanic, and retired. How often am I going to fix equipment? LOL NOT VERY. Technique in that case would have paid dividends. The crappy connection is just typical of how people are NOT taught correctly. A non mechanical joint with solder is the worst type of connection there is. On the other hand mechanically joining wire ends and then securing it to the turret is the correct way. The hole in the center of the turret is to pass the wire through. If they don't have holes, use copper or silver turrets. There is point to point and there is crappy point to point.
Have you looked inside an older Cary? AND THEY ARE QUIET. I don't know why, but they are dead quiet to the ear.
Good luck.
Regards
Take a look at this:
Although Chinese, the Cayin PH6 tube phonostage is very well done piece of phono stage,
both relating to build, component quality and sound....... and that for less then ½ the price
of the mess, that started this thread 😆🤣
Re: Original post , some questions, if you're still interested in your original vector.
How much hum and what kind?
How are they getting power from one chassis to the other? (Yes, by umbilical but how or perhaps better to ask, what?)
Where's the power for the D3A's coming from? Is it AC or DC? If AC are they twisted or shielded along the umbilical with the B+?
Also, if AC you should try first a heater DC bias (easiest) and if that doesn't work then DC heater supply.
Mercury vapour rectifiers with nothing on the top connectors and what are presumably diodes soldered to the socket lugs is another. Do they light up when it's turned on? Maybe you're hum is coming from there? Then as others have said . . . . . . . woo hoo, it's a project!
The makers have a nice web-page though , and Google shows that this preamp is on their facebook page. Maybe ask them ?
Rebuilding it to get rid of the hum for fun and education is diy justification enough, It's not physically that complicated after all. But if not for fun but your livelihood and it turns out to be mediocre when finished , will your client be happy to pay you regardless?
Bear in mind that whether things sound better when you get rid of the hum depends on what you had to do to get rid of it.
How much hum and what kind?
How are they getting power from one chassis to the other? (Yes, by umbilical but how or perhaps better to ask, what?)
Where's the power for the D3A's coming from? Is it AC or DC? If AC are they twisted or shielded along the umbilical with the B+?
Also, if AC you should try first a heater DC bias (easiest) and if that doesn't work then DC heater supply.
Mercury vapour rectifiers with nothing on the top connectors and what are presumably diodes soldered to the socket lugs is another. Do they light up when it's turned on? Maybe you're hum is coming from there? Then as others have said . . . . . . . woo hoo, it's a project!
The makers have a nice web-page though , and Google shows that this preamp is on their facebook page. Maybe ask them ?
Rebuilding it to get rid of the hum for fun and education is diy justification enough, It's not physically that complicated after all. But if not for fun but your livelihood and it turns out to be mediocre when finished , will your client be happy to pay you regardless?
Bear in mind that whether things sound better when you get rid of the hum depends on what you had to do to get rid of it.
Anti-tamper, as said; and also an added step in build checking. Worker A does the solders. Worker B is assigned to LOOK! at every joint, and mark the good ones. In theory this avoids things like my Bogen 300 Watt which caught fire from a G2 connection that was clearly never soldered.
Red (nail polish) is traditional. I do not know if Blue is a fashion choice/reject or if blue adds "tone". (Damping??)
Do we think the object in #1 {has picture been removed?} was assembled by workers A and B etc, or is the product of a single artist with an iron and a brush?
I guess Red self defeats because it´s so common, and tiny hue variations might even be caused by different product or just internal heating.
Now with a very different or unusual colour, it´s easier to detect intrusions.
FWIW sometimes I filled empty nail enamel bottles with some of my distinctive metallized silver blue panel front paint (which looks great under white silkscreen graphics) and used it in a similar way; it´s an impossible to find premade colour, I have to mix it from scratch.
Now with a very different or unusual colour, it´s easier to detect intrusions.
FWIW sometimes I filled empty nail enamel bottles with some of my distinctive metallized silver blue panel front paint (which looks great under white silkscreen graphics) and used it in a similar way; it´s an impossible to find premade colour, I have to mix it from scratch.
@JMF: Raid a young girl's nail enamel storage for some interesting hues.
Or: auto paint shops, many shades available, some as stainers to add to base coat.
Or: Just add pearl pigments to a clear paint that you can use at your pace, auto paints dry out fast at times.
Pearl pigments should be available in your country, find one suitable, they have different coating agents for different purposes.
Even food grade pigments have been used. Think frosting...
Or: auto paint shops, many shades available, some as stainers to add to base coat.
Or: Just add pearl pigments to a clear paint that you can use at your pace, auto paints dry out fast at times.
Pearl pigments should be available in your country, find one suitable, they have different coating agents for different purposes.
Even food grade pigments have been used. Think frosting...
Looks like a Hiwatt DR103 guitar amp, originally built by Dave Reeves. Legendary build quality and quite a unique sounding guitar amp - very clean and *very loud.Not into Hi Fi Boutique preamps, so all I can contribute is a humble commercial Guitar one.
Even so, it might stand comparison to the U$5000 "boutique" one 🙄
Notice parts orientation, wiring layout, twisted and separated from Audio path filament wires, etc.
MILES above that amateurish mess.
Enlarge image and enjoy. 🙂
Of course others will certainly contribute gorgeous examples of well built Hi Fi types.
The originals used Partridge transformers which were of incredible quality. The OP transformer, uncharacteristically was very Hi Fi like with incredible bandwidth extension on both ends, most likely contributing to their unique sound.
Allegedly the blue (also red) 'painted' solder joints were part of the QC process with each solder joint being checked off for continuity.
I hired one for a gig many years ago and wow did it move some air.
TCD
The DR103 is my favourite guitar amp. Specifically with the Hiwatt cabinet with the 4x12" Fane drivers. Cranked to 11 of course.
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