Sorry if this topic has already been done (recently).. I tried to Google it, but I always have a hard time judging the credibility of stuff I find.
Does anyone have a pulse on who makes a decent tube these days?
I haven't built an amp in a while, and the last two I did build used Svetlana power tubes (the "real" winged-C ones) and Sovtek AX7s.
Since both of those are gone now, I'm wondering what's left that might be of a similar build quality? Are the new higher-priced Chinese ones (Psvane / Linlai / Shaguang) better than the European options (JJ, EH, all the New Sensor ones with classic names) nowadays?
I'm especially interested in 6L6GCs (they're cheap and seem hard to screw up - although maybe I'm spoiled by those SED ones?) and KT88s.. I've been hearing that there aren't any decent ones of the latter anymore - what exist are not that reliable. But, I read that on the internet, so maybe it's a load of BS?
Does anyone have a pulse on who makes a decent tube these days?
I haven't built an amp in a while, and the last two I did build used Svetlana power tubes (the "real" winged-C ones) and Sovtek AX7s.
Since both of those are gone now, I'm wondering what's left that might be of a similar build quality? Are the new higher-priced Chinese ones (Psvane / Linlai / Shaguang) better than the European options (JJ, EH, all the New Sensor ones with classic names) nowadays?
I'm especially interested in 6L6GCs (they're cheap and seem hard to screw up - although maybe I'm spoiled by those SED ones?) and KT88s.. I've been hearing that there aren't any decent ones of the latter anymore - what exist are not that reliable. But, I read that on the internet, so maybe it's a load of BS?
Look at the Russian 6p3s-e tubes for good 6L6 replacements. They are good sounding, long lasting, and less expensive. I’ve used a bunch of them with no regrets.
Ive got NOS and pretty much every modern production version of the popular audio tubes for guitar and hi-fi. And I must admit, I like them all. As far as the old Svetlana tubes, I was not and still am not a big fan. For guitar they were always fine, but in my hi-fis they were never neutral or as transparent as they should be. They are extremely colored tubes IMO. As for modern KT88s and 6550s, I think they are great The only complaint I have is it seems the heaters fail what may seem too quickly to anyone used to NOS tubes. And you have the option of the KT90, KT120 and KT150…. It is really not a bad time to be into tubes.
I've had good experience so far with the New Sensor (new production Tung-Sol, Genalex, Electro-Harmonix) tubes.
I have used NOS 6P3S-E, works very well, maybe I got lucky but the tubes were quite evenly matched. Unfortunately the prices have gone up, they are not the bargain they used to be.
I have no experience with modern new tubes.
I have no experience with modern new tubes.
To that list I would add Sovtek. They make the most consistently low noise and low microphonics 12AX7WA I have ever tested.
I personally avoid JJ because their product is too variable.
Cheers
Ian
I wouldn’t exactly call them “New” Sensor - isn’t that the original factory that existed before there was a New Sensor? And are they still making new production under that name or just selling off old stock? The Sovtek and EH preamp tubes I’ve been using are absolutely identical, right down to the printing font on the glass. Most of my Sovtek inventory was purchased back in the late 90’s when PE sold them (and were about five bucks an AX7). They beat the pants off the Philips ECG (probably Sylvania, but still by Philips).
If you keep a 6L6GC down to only 23 watts, they become more reliable too - even the Chinese ones.
If I was going to buy a new AX7, It would be a Sovtek LPS or the Shuguang with three micas.
The 6N4J is also an idea. Beijing 6N4J(12AX7) Vacuum Tube 1PCS_Beijing Tube_Analog Metric - DIY Audio Kit Developer
Frankly, I'd probably just rewire the device to use 6N2.
The 6N4J is also an idea. Beijing 6N4J(12AX7) Vacuum Tube 1PCS_Beijing Tube_Analog Metric - DIY Audio Kit Developer
Frankly, I'd probably just rewire the device to use 6N2.
Well, if we go by the book, then it is 20.5W for anode dissipation and 250V max for both anode and screen. But I have not seen an amp respecting that. The claimed 30W, 450V anode voltage and are observations in practice, but not based on what the CCCP wrote on the datasheet.
Attachments
20.5W plate, 2.75W screen = ~23W...
I've never used the 6P3S-E personally, but I have used 6P3S and they begin to red plate around 24W Pd.
That said, I've used 6V6 in a 6L6 amp. The tubes ran HOT but they didn't seem to mind.
YMMV.
I've never used the 6P3S-E personally, but I have used 6P3S and they begin to red plate around 24W Pd.
That said, I've used 6V6 in a 6L6 amp. The tubes ran HOT but they didn't seem to mind.
YMMV.
Ha, good point, I forgot about the total dissipation.
I do have tested them at 400V 72mA in an UL setup, no red plates or screens. But I ended running them at 50mA,to keep them close to the datasheet value.
To answer the OP's original question, depends where you are and your budget and what valve your after. Oh and what application. A valve is a valve is a valve, in my experience they are all the bloody same in your general run of the mill application that is.
Where it may get tricky is if your running a valve at it's higher limits or where microphonics is an issue or some other iffy parameter.
If your in the UK Langrex, Billington are your go to suppliers, RS do a cheap range of the common audio valves and there are a few other smaller suppliers. Langrex do a good contemporary EL34 - IE Langrex Premium, no idea who makes em.
The only other suppliers I can personally vouch for are certain Ebay suppliers in the Ukraine/Eastern Europe, these are NOS 6SN7's (6H8C) , 6H6N (12BH7, ECC99) and other Russian equivalents made way back. I've only had one bad valve, these off sellers with 100% positive FB. I can supply their details if you send me a PM.
Other than that I get most of my valves from friends and acquaintances, mostly NOS, manufacturer is unimportant.
Andy.
Where it may get tricky is if your running a valve at it's higher limits or where microphonics is an issue or some other iffy parameter.
If your in the UK Langrex, Billington are your go to suppliers, RS do a cheap range of the common audio valves and there are a few other smaller suppliers. Langrex do a good contemporary EL34 - IE Langrex Premium, no idea who makes em.
The only other suppliers I can personally vouch for are certain Ebay suppliers in the Ukraine/Eastern Europe, these are NOS 6SN7's (6H8C) , 6H6N (12BH7, ECC99) and other Russian equivalents made way back. I've only had one bad valve, these off sellers with 100% positive FB. I can supply their details if you send me a PM.
Other than that I get most of my valves from friends and acquaintances, mostly NOS, manufacturer is unimportant.
Andy.
Agrre with the previous post, I buy all my valves from e-Bay, supplier from Ukraine, very reliable and a surprisingly good postal service.
6P3S-E Filament 0.88A x 6.3V = 5.544 Watts
6P3S Filament 0.90A x 6.3V = 5.67 Watts.
Add the filament heat dissipation to the plate and screen dissipation in order to know how much heat is contained in the tube's glass envelope.
Most people forget, the tube gets warm, even if there is no B+.
I drive over to eurotubes.com and purchase my very closely matched JJ 6L6GC tubes there (I live in the metro area).
The tubes work very well in my amplifiers.
6P3S Filament 0.90A x 6.3V = 5.67 Watts.
Add the filament heat dissipation to the plate and screen dissipation in order to know how much heat is contained in the tube's glass envelope.
Most people forget, the tube gets warm, even if there is no B+.
I drive over to eurotubes.com and purchase my very closely matched JJ 6L6GC tubes there (I live in the metro area).
The tubes work very well in my amplifiers.
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Even though they have the same specs on paper, 6P3S and 6P3S-E have quite different internals (and externals). I have used both, and it is one of the mysteries of Russian tube type numbers.
Maybe they fell into the same trap that Philips did with EL84 and PL84
Maybe they fell into the same trap that Philips did with EL84 and PL84