Danny,
Every loudspeaker has many, many compromises.
Which midTweeter and which woofer depends on the compromises you can most easily live with.
A 5 and an 8 can work, a smaller midTweeter will typically do a better on mid/top and have better dispersion, a larger one will play louder. And that just considers one aspect.
dave
Every loudspeaker has many, many compromises.
Which midTweeter and which woofer depends on the compromises you can most easily live with.
A 5 and an 8 can work, a smaller midTweeter will typically do a better on mid/top and have better dispersion, a larger one will play louder. And that just considers one aspect.
dave
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I see! Thank you very much!
My overall knowledge really sucks :/ When you say it, it completely makes sense to me, I'm just somehow unable to realize this kind of explanation by myself.. and that sucks, I realize this.. but I will improve, I promise!
My overall knowledge really sucks :/ When you say it, it completely makes sense to me, I'm just somehow unable to realize this kind of explanation by myself.. and that sucks, I realize this.. but I will improve, I promise!
Since you say you don’t know the difference between drivers, which sometimes, depending on the design, is not what you would expect, I still stand by my suggestion.
Build the TABAQ with a small 3 or 4” driver, no crossover, and start your journey into diy audio.
You can talk all you want, but until you start building and listening, you will still not know.
Start small, both in size and budget, and learn.
Build the TABAQ with a small 3 or 4” driver, no crossover, and start your journey into diy audio.
You can talk all you want, but until you start building and listening, you will still not know.
Start small, both in size and budget, and learn.
I consider your sugguestion, because I want to follow received advice.. however taking drawing from finished design and blindly building the enclosures like by user manual is not actually what I wanted to do.. what do I learn by that? That is my point.. I want to learn to calculate the enclosure, to calculate the crossover, etc.. you are right, that at this moment following your advice would be easiest way to build good sounding speakers, especially if there is just little chance to achieve this with my current knowledge.. therefore I completely understand your suggestion.. but I am missing my own contribution for the result, excluding the wood working.. I don't know if this makes sense for you.. I want to learn the whole process.. if I finish the speakers in 8 months, because I will spend 6 months by figuring out necessary aspects or by the computer work, it is fine for me.. if I build the speakers in 1 month but learn nothing, I learn nothing.. yes, I will have good sounding speakers, but no personal progress.. but this is difficult.. I know you cannot tell me step by step what to do, I don't even want someone to spend excessive time with my questions..
Maybe the best would be to ask you, if you could refer me to some articles which I should read as an absolute newbie, because I honestly don't know where to start.. may I ask you for that? I have read something, but during my attempts to understand speaker building, I jump from elementar issues for knowledge lvl1 to some article for knowledge lvl450, where I understand less than half of the text, than back to article knowledge lvl 50, etc.. finally after all that time I am same stupid as before and as you said, I don't know basic differences in the speakers.. may I ask you for some link which may give me the direction in what to study? I haven't found amy article like this yet..
Thank you in advance!
How did we learn how to write?
A teacher showed us, and we copied writing the letters over and over until you understood them.
How did we learn how to speak?
A family member repeated the words over and over until we understood.
Copying a proven design doesn't mean you will learn nothing.
You will learn that a 3" driver can have that much bass when you thought it wasn't possible. Then, you will want to know why it sounds like that, and study the design (in this case, 1/4-wave theory).
Then, you will think that maybe a bigger driver in a transmission line will have more power, but you will need another driver for the higher end. That's when you start learning about 2-way designs. and crossovers. And so on....
Unless you go to university and learn wavelength sciences, learning about audio is a bit messy, I have found, for myself anyway. The information is out there (online), but it is never really structured learning. When I am interested in a project, I learn all I can about the design, build one, then try to apply it to different configurations. It's fun for me because I am hands-on kind of person. If you just put a stack of books in front of me, I will get bored. I need to apply what I see. Maybe you like books very much. We are all different.
Anyway.
These days, we are lucky to have so many apps available to design and learn at the same time. From the old WinISD, to HornResp, from XSim to VirtuixCAD and nods to little ones like Basta!
Good luck!
A teacher showed us, and we copied writing the letters over and over until you understood them.
How did we learn how to speak?
A family member repeated the words over and over until we understood.
Copying a proven design doesn't mean you will learn nothing.
You will learn that a 3" driver can have that much bass when you thought it wasn't possible. Then, you will want to know why it sounds like that, and study the design (in this case, 1/4-wave theory).
Then, you will think that maybe a bigger driver in a transmission line will have more power, but you will need another driver for the higher end. That's when you start learning about 2-way designs. and crossovers. And so on....
Unless you go to university and learn wavelength sciences, learning about audio is a bit messy, I have found, for myself anyway. The information is out there (online), but it is never really structured learning. When I am interested in a project, I learn all I can about the design, build one, then try to apply it to different configurations. It's fun for me because I am hands-on kind of person. If you just put a stack of books in front of me, I will get bored. I need to apply what I see. Maybe you like books very much. We are all different.
Anyway.
These days, we are lucky to have so many apps available to design and learn at the same time. From the old WinISD, to HornResp, from XSim to VirtuixCAD and nods to little ones like Basta!
Good luck!
What a beautiful answer. Ok then, let's follow your advice! The woofers won't remain unused in future or I can sell them anytime..
I am still working on the new thread, but now I need to re-work it a bit, soo.. I will just summarize everything, like budget etc, I will continue reading of the TABAQ thread to get more information and hopefully gather more knowledge and then I'll be back.
Thank you very much, sir!
I am still working on the new thread, but now I need to re-work it a bit, soo.. I will just summarize everything, like budget etc, I will continue reading of the TABAQ thread to get more information and hopefully gather more knowledge and then I'll be back.
Thank you very much, sir!
I would suggest watching speaker design videos on YouTube. A good place to start is: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=toid123
Download XSim and WinISD and look for tutorials on them on YouTube. Build a proven design and then reverse engineer it so you can see what happens when you change components and enclosure dimensions.
This is a science in physics, so learning it is a long process. A good approach to learning this is "crawl, walk, run."
Download XSim and WinISD and look for tutorials on them on YouTube. Build a proven design and then reverse engineer it so you can see what happens when you change components and enclosure dimensions.
This is a science in physics, so learning it is a long process. A good approach to learning this is "crawl, walk, run."
There was a small vented design with the W5-1611 that won a price at some DIY-contest that might be interesting:
W5-1611, Sarah
Click 2nd .pdf under "Dokumente".
It uses a few notches though and might end up more expensive than a CHN-50, A5.2 or similar from Mark Audio.
Haven´t tried many TB speaker other than W3-871 and only A7.3 of the Mark Audio´s but with my limited experience I´d rather get the aforementioned MAs that probably need no work at all (other than an appropriate enclosure).
With limited experience of hearing those drivers alone, with tweeter or in a FAST, it´s hard to tell which compromise would be the one for you.
I personally think a FAST with a dedicated woofer is a good idea and thus would aim for quality in the midtweeter.
A CHN-50 really has a good price for what it is.
W5-1611, Sarah
Click 2nd .pdf under "Dokumente".
It uses a few notches though and might end up more expensive than a CHN-50, A5.2 or similar from Mark Audio.
Haven´t tried many TB speaker other than W3-871 and only A7.3 of the Mark Audio´s but with my limited experience I´d rather get the aforementioned MAs that probably need no work at all (other than an appropriate enclosure).
With limited experience of hearing those drivers alone, with tweeter or in a FAST, it´s hard to tell which compromise would be the one for you.
I personally think a FAST with a dedicated woofer is a good idea and thus would aim for quality in the midtweeter.
A CHN-50 really has a good price for what it is.
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Thank you for your input 🙂 does anyone has any experience with the MA's aluminium cone cracks? I know that some newer version has an excursion limiter in the motor which should prevent this issue, however I am quite concerned about that. I have read in one thread, where Mark personally participated (btw. he seems to be a wonderful and friendly man), that the cone of some model cracked at 1/4 of rated power, when hitting some longer bass around 30hz. As you may know, I have no idea what volume is achieved at that power, so maybe it is irrelevant for me again, but I don't want to break such a beautiful drivers.
Ok everyone. I finally placed order for some components, so my new thread will be coming when I recieve everything. Finally I chose the W3-2141, because I really like the appearance and other people's experience with this driver seems to be mostly positive. Additionally I have ordered not UMIK-1 but Omnes Audio MikOne, because it was 1/4 cheaper and basically seems the same. I ordered some binding posts and damping material as well. I can't wait for my first build!!! See you soon.