LOL. Well, you may have destroyed the switch if you connected neutral to both outside terminals
So clearly, Power (hot) comes in on the left and goes out to the motor on the center and the neon lamp+resistor needs neutral (white) on the right. So, there should be 3 wires to the switch. Yellow=Left, Black= center, White=right.
Unfortunately the data sheet does not show this detail, perhaps assuming it's obvious.
https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/LRA-Series_Details_&_COS_0.pdf
So clearly, Power (hot) comes in on the left and goes out to the motor on the center and the neon lamp+resistor needs neutral (white) on the right. So, there should be 3 wires to the switch. Yellow=Left, Black= center, White=right.
Unfortunately the data sheet does not show this detail, perhaps assuming it's obvious.
https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/LRA-Series_Details_&_COS_0.pdf
If you choose an illuminated DPST switch with faston 4.8 or 6.3 mm you can wire both incoming L and N mains wiring (white and yellow) directly to the switch. Then the black one and a new piece white or red cable (to the red wire of the motor) from the switch to the circuit. Makes it easier and more service friendly I think. As a bonus the neon lamp will work as it normally is wired internally in a DPST type.So, I will buy a DPST switch, witch I hope has a proper wiring diagram, so that I can solve the popping/no light switch problem.
Arcotronics and Marquardt make good ones.
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