innernerd said:
true, true, true.
With the risk of being ridiculed I will ask anyway -
Since these are all 'decks', the sound will depend to a great extent on the amplifier being used. However, would anyone be able to characterize the sound of these Akais (GX-635,636) as compared to the Sonys (TC-558 and the like) ? Any particular characteristic of the sound that stands out (or lacks) in one or the other ?
Thanks!
I owned and used a Sony 756 (F&F heads 7 1/2/15 ips) for years b4 switching to a Teac x 1000R and later 2 X2000R's bought on ebay and repaired to better than original specs (and still use). the Teacs are better decks, though the Sony had a nice quality sound (if a little thin at lower frequencies). The Teacs dual capstan drive handles tape better than a technics 1500/1700 (though not as "sexy" looking). I never much liked the sound from the Technics, though.
If the x2000R's are too pricey, I'd look at the x1000R series or even an x700 vintage. They're easier to fix than the Sony's or the Akai's, and parts are available.
Akai 63x looks to be well built, but I've never used them. I understand pnew parts are harder to get (tho you can probably scavange another machine if need be)
If the x2000R's are too pricey, I'd look at the x1000R series or even an x700 vintage. They're easier to fix than the Sony's or the Akai's, and parts are available.
Akai 63x looks to be well built, but I've never used them. I understand pnew parts are harder to get (tho you can probably scavange another machine if need be)
Hi Percy,
I've serviced them all. The Revox B-77 is the most reliable consumer machine. Period. Both the Ferrite and glass heads wear. The gap edges chip, effectively widening the gap. Only thing is you can't see the wear easily. In record mode, ferrite heads saturate suddenly and at low levels. They do not sound very good.
The bigger problem is capstan shaft and reel shaft / motor bearing wear. They are replaceable on the Revox. And the Revox has belts for the counter only, direct drive otherwise. The volume pots are no bigger a problem than any other.
Keep in mind that any used machine will require service. Lubrication, bearing replacement maybe, and proper calibration certainly. Otherwise you don't have whatever machine you think you have.
-Chris
I've serviced them all. The Revox B-77 is the most reliable consumer machine. Period. Both the Ferrite and glass heads wear. The gap edges chip, effectively widening the gap. Only thing is you can't see the wear easily. In record mode, ferrite heads saturate suddenly and at low levels. They do not sound very good.
The bigger problem is capstan shaft and reel shaft / motor bearing wear. They are replaceable on the Revox. And the Revox has belts for the counter only, direct drive otherwise. The volume pots are no bigger a problem than any other.
Keep in mind that any used machine will require service. Lubrication, bearing replacement maybe, and proper calibration certainly. Otherwise you don't have whatever machine you think you have.
-Chris
OTARI?
I've read through all of the replys to your query and no one has yet mentioned the legendary Otari MX-5050. This machine has been one of the standards in studio recording for decades. I have serviced 3 of these and I use 4 of them in the Cleveland State University Recording Studio. It has a 4 head system: | 4tr repro | erase | 2tr rec/sel sync | 2tr repro |. This is great because not only can you record a professional master, but you are also able to reproduce consumer reels as well!
Don't get me wrong, I love my Studer 807 (which is now worn beyond economic repair) but you will pay thousands for one of those.
I also own a Tascam 32 that I bought for $150 USD. It cost me about $200 USD for parts to rebuild it. It was worth the time and money, I love that machine!
Cheers,
John
I've read through all of the replys to your query and no one has yet mentioned the legendary Otari MX-5050. This machine has been one of the standards in studio recording for decades. I have serviced 3 of these and I use 4 of them in the Cleveland State University Recording Studio. It has a 4 head system: | 4tr repro | erase | 2tr rec/sel sync | 2tr repro |. This is great because not only can you record a professional master, but you are also able to reproduce consumer reels as well!
Don't get me wrong, I love my Studer 807 (which is now worn beyond economic repair) but you will pay thousands for one of those.
I also own a Tascam 32 that I bought for $150 USD. It cost me about $200 USD for parts to rebuild it. It was worth the time and money, I love that machine!
Cheers,
John
Hi John,
Then all I have to say is Tascam 52, or BR-20. All direct drive is a real advantage that shows in speed stability. Also lays an even pack on the reel.
Otari is okay, but nothing special and I've had trouble getting parts. Nothing hits the tape like a Studer and that's were the money comes in. Just my opinion.
-Chris
Then all I have to say is Tascam 52, or BR-20. All direct drive is a real advantage that shows in speed stability. Also lays an even pack on the reel.
Otari is okay, but nothing special and I've had trouble getting parts. Nothing hits the tape like a Studer and that's were the money comes in. Just my opinion.
-Chris
Agreed,
The Otari was quite the work-horse. I've tried for years to find a good one, but they all need ALOT of work. If you can fit a Studer/Revox in to the budget, then by ALL means!
I LOVE my Studer A807 and am slowly bringing it back to life (Motors are shot, bias generator needs work, heads, new capacitors, etc.) Nothing is quite like it.
Cheers,
John
The Otari was quite the work-horse. I've tried for years to find a good one, but they all need ALOT of work. If you can fit a Studer/Revox in to the budget, then by ALL means!
I LOVE my Studer A807 and am slowly bringing it back to life (Motors are shot, bias generator needs work, heads, new capacitors, etc.) Nothing is quite like it.
Cheers,
John
A little off topic but I just have to share.........
I just picked up an Otari MX70 1" 16-track for $200 today. It has less than 40 hours on it, and it looks brand new! This is including the remote and all electronics! I would still love to get a nice 1/2" 2-track for mix-down and mastering though.
Cheers,
Zach
I just picked up an Otari MX70 1" 16-track for $200 today. It has less than 40 hours on it, and it looks brand new! This is including the remote and all electronics! I would still love to get a nice 1/2" 2-track for mix-down and mastering though.
Cheers,
Zach
I have a new, never used Tascam BR-20 2T. Too bad you are so far away, but I want much, much more for that. I'm in no rush.
-Chris
-Chris
Wish I had known you a few years back Zach, I sold my two track A-80 and my Nagra 4S back then. Both had the european wide gap heads and all the options...... fantastic performance...oh well. what are your plans for the 1".... Tape is pretty scarce right now.....
Mark
There is also made a TANDBERG TDA20 SE, which might be worth considering, if there still are any out there. They are mid80's design, to fit into a rapidly growing regional-radiostation market at the time. Probably one of the best sounding macnines for the nonprof. market. Both lowspeed and highspeed models were made.
I'm sorry!
It's named TANDBERG TD20A SE.
Do a google on the name, and read a few owners opinion.
It's named TANDBERG TD20A SE.
Do a google on the name, and read a few owners opinion.
Hey JP Audiophile,
Does that machine have those wonderful whitish tantalums, rectangular with one end rounded? Replace them all with electrolytic. That should fix most electronic problems, also capstan speed servo. All the motors have replaceable bearings don't they?
I think there was an upgrade for tension arm bearings, or is that a different machine? I always add heatsink grease to the power transistors. I don't know why they tend to mount them dry.
-Chris
Does that machine have those wonderful whitish tantalums, rectangular with one end rounded? Replace them all with electrolytic. That should fix most electronic problems, also capstan speed servo. All the motors have replaceable bearings don't they?
I think there was an upgrade for tension arm bearings, or is that a different machine? I always add heatsink grease to the power transistors. I don't know why they tend to mount them dry.
-Chris
Good form, I hadn't thought of going electrolytic (pretty stupid of me.)
And yes the bearings are replaceable, it's just a matter of getting the new ones and rebuilding the motors. The Capstan Servo was the first to be replaced, as it started to malfunction and I could never get the speed where I wanted it. I have never looked into the tension arm upgrade, but now that you mention it, i will. I also need to rebuild some solenoids, particularly the ones on the braking system (some bad news there, tape went EVERWHERE!) I plan on having it done in the next year or so... granted I don't find anything else wrong.
Cheers,
John
And yes the bearings are replaceable, it's just a matter of getting the new ones and rebuilding the motors. The Capstan Servo was the first to be replaced, as it started to malfunction and I could never get the speed where I wanted it. I have never looked into the tension arm upgrade, but now that you mention it, i will. I also need to rebuild some solenoids, particularly the ones on the braking system (some bad news there, tape went EVERWHERE!) I plan on having it done in the next year or so... granted I don't find anything else wrong.
Cheers,
John
Hi John,
Do you still have the old servo board? I bet if you rebuild it you will be fine with it. A spare for cheap. I find the tacho head position can be critical, or is that a different machine?
The tension arm mod alows you to use newer, stiffer tapes and have better control over tension. The brakes may need a good clean, don't they only come into play after the reel is stopped? The tension arms control braking to the best of my knowledge.
-Chris
Do you still have the old servo board? I bet if you rebuild it you will be fine with it. A spare for cheap. I find the tacho head position can be critical, or is that a different machine?
The tension arm mod alows you to use newer, stiffer tapes and have better control over tension. The brakes may need a good clean, don't they only come into play after the reel is stopped? The tension arms control braking to the best of my knowledge.
-Chris
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