https://www.aleenes.com/aleenes-fle...-aleenes-flexible-stretchable-fabric-glue-4oz
For treatment on the surround and into the cone from the surround (..apex of surround to about 1" into diaphragm depending on the size of the driver).
For treatment on the surround and into the cone from the surround (..apex of surround to about 1" into diaphragm depending on the size of the driver).
That is very interesting Scott. Somewhat similar to the ZIG 2-way glue i use for the same purpose.
https://canada.michaels.com/en/2-wa...collections/10684242.html?productsource=PLPRV
Aleenes has a zillion glue SKUs. They look to have puzzlekoat: https://www.aleenes.com/premium-decoupage-matte-16-oz (they also have gloss).
dave
https://canada.michaels.com/en/2-wa...collections/10684242.html?productsource=PLPRV
Aleenes has a zillion glue SKUs. They look to have puzzlekoat: https://www.aleenes.com/premium-decoupage-matte-16-oz (they also have gloss).
dave
The flexible stuff does a good job of reducing surround resonance and suppressing internal modes of the diaphragm as they move to the boundary of diaphragm's outer-edge.
To me (at least conceptually), if I want a HARD coat (on the diaphragm) it would be something like a natural lacquer where the material to be deposited on the surface (perhaps graphene flakes?) is suspended in something like 99% alcohol that will evaporate and just leave the suspended particles of the natural lacquer.
If I wanted something hard with more damping (and unavoidably more weight) I use natural melted Beeswax, not PVA.
To me (at least conceptually), if I want a HARD coat (on the diaphragm) it would be something like a natural lacquer where the material to be deposited on the surface (perhaps graphene flakes?) is suspended in something like 99% alcohol that will evaporate and just leave the suspended particles of the natural lacquer.
If I wanted something hard with more damping (and unavoidably more weight) I use natural melted Beeswax, not PVA.
Hard coat, natural lacquer, suspend in alcohol = shellac. It can be recoated numerous times. And I have absolutely no idea if it would work,
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Anyone also tried e6000 or shoe goo, high density and very elastic stuff. Used to fix shoes and jrwerly. That thing can bend 90 degrees and retain its shape, after dried or modding
Yes, it works on paper and what I would recommend, but never tried it on anything else, so YMMV, etc..
'I would glue the plastic part to the wood with some epoxy or polurethane wood glue (it foams during curing and stays elastic).'
On another thread here about speaker failure. Of possible use as a cone coating material?
Shellac may dry too stiff, and not age well. Bear that in mind.
On another thread here about speaker failure. Of possible use as a cone coating material?
Shellac may dry too stiff, and not age well. Bear that in mind.
Damar & C37 are examples of lacquers. Too many coats and the cone gets stiff and rings. A little bit can work well. C37 coats are much less than damar.
The lighter pattern is damar used before a coat of modpodge.
dave
The lighter pattern is damar used before a coat of modpodge.
dave
I coated some eminence cones in a friends PA with this stone sealer (left over from sealing my onyx shower tiles),its a liquid silicone that dries semi hard, but nice thing is it is very thin right out of the jug and soaks right into the paper. I tested it first on a old blown paper cone speaker by coating it and letting it sit outside for a month and it was still beading water……he said it made no noticeable difference in the sound. Proceed at your own risk!
