Just saw your post. I can give you my assembled Peter Daniel F5 boards if you would like to try them. Used but functional. PM me if interested.
The Aleph's are rather passe on the forum. They are such nice flexible amps and not too hard to build. Too bad the old BriantGT or Peter Mini-Aleph black boards are not offered or wanted any more.
Do note that I'd like my amps to have a good headroom or dynamic power headroom, never push an amp beyond 80% or into the clipping region. Its better to have too much power and don't need it, same with the PSU 🙂
I think the detailed F5-Turbo will go well together with the Bliesma T25B-6 beryllium tweeter. Not sure about the midrange, will probably be SB Acoustics aluminum or TeXtreme together with a Scanspeak Revelator alu woofer. "High definition" 🙂
Thanks for adding to the conversation, much appreciated.
I think the detailed F5-Turbo will go well together with the Bliesma T25B-6 beryllium tweeter. Not sure about the midrange, will probably be SB Acoustics aluminum or TeXtreme together with a Scanspeak Revelator alu woofer. "High definition" 🙂
Thanks for adding to the conversation, much appreciated.
amprus, yes shame about the BrianGT boards, not only did those get me (and so many) building an amp, those nice PSU boards went aside too. Oneminde, how loud do you like to listen? A little power goes a long way... maybe not into panels, but most speakers.
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Oneminde, I built an active class-A system a few years ago with Aleph Js. Excessive heat in the room can be an issue, so please don't overlook it. 🙂
Having class-D for woofer is a reasonable & practical solution, and I do the same in summer, but the sound character of the whole system would rather be dominated by class-D amp. Woofer amp is the most important amp for active system, in my experience.
Having class-D for woofer is a reasonable & practical solution, and I do the same in summer, but the sound character of the whole system would rather be dominated by class-D amp. Woofer amp is the most important amp for active system, in my experience.
Depending on the cross over frequency of the tweeter, 10W might be enough there.
I would definitely still stick with 25W for the mid range.
I am not really a fan of Class D amps even for bass.
Well maybe 20Hz to 40Hz Class D is ok, but above that I would want a Class A amp.
I would definitely still stick with 25W for the mid range.
I am not really a fan of Class D amps even for bass.
Well maybe 20Hz to 40Hz Class D is ok, but above that I would want a Class A amp.
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Thanks for all the inputs and suggestions.
Listening levels: I am going to say a nominal of 75-85 dB. Musical peaks can ofc be much higher.
For the tweeter, the F-5 should be fine with its 25W in 8ohms / 40W in 4ohm.
Midrange... There the F-5 turbo is a better match
Woofer... this is a big questions.
... NAD seems very pleased with Purifi class D, they are using it in their new M28, M33 and C298 amplifiers - replacing Hypex. Marantz on the other hand chose to stick with Hypex in their brand spanking new Model 30... bold choice. So Purifi Eigentakt, the natural choice over Hypex. But is it a natural choice over class A or AB, that is the question and I guess the answer in part depend on other references and requirements. I've not heard the Eigentakt myself so can't comment, but lots of people seem content. Perhaps they are comparing it to other class D and in that case, it should be above & beyond, so that's good.
So maybe I should combine the F-5's with my already planed class AB amp. Its a bit more expensive to build compared to the class D but should bring me more joy I think and its a special beast. It does the first 20W as class A and the rest is class AB. 220W in 8ohm, 400W in 4ohm and 700W in 2 ohm. No its not a PASS amp but can compete in sound quality. What got me hooked about it is the use of only 2 MOSFETs per chn, so no multiple MOSFETs to color the sound. And ofc, if need be, it can be my only amp - say if and when I do passive crossover.
And that is the point I guess.... to reach a homogeneous sound signature. I know class D have a heard time competing against class A/AB, I've heard first hand. So I know...
Listening levels: I am going to say a nominal of 75-85 dB. Musical peaks can ofc be much higher.
For the tweeter, the F-5 should be fine with its 25W in 8ohms / 40W in 4ohm.
Midrange... There the F-5 turbo is a better match
Woofer... this is a big questions.
... NAD seems very pleased with Purifi class D, they are using it in their new M28, M33 and C298 amplifiers - replacing Hypex. Marantz on the other hand chose to stick with Hypex in their brand spanking new Model 30... bold choice. So Purifi Eigentakt, the natural choice over Hypex. But is it a natural choice over class A or AB, that is the question and I guess the answer in part depend on other references and requirements. I've not heard the Eigentakt myself so can't comment, but lots of people seem content. Perhaps they are comparing it to other class D and in that case, it should be above & beyond, so that's good.
So maybe I should combine the F-5's with my already planed class AB amp. Its a bit more expensive to build compared to the class D but should bring me more joy I think and its a special beast. It does the first 20W as class A and the rest is class AB. 220W in 8ohm, 400W in 4ohm and 700W in 2 ohm. No its not a PASS amp but can compete in sound quality. What got me hooked about it is the use of only 2 MOSFETs per chn, so no multiple MOSFETs to color the sound. And ofc, if need be, it can be my only amp - say if and when I do passive crossover.
And that is the point I guess.... to reach a homogeneous sound signature. I know class D have a heard time competing against class A/AB, I've heard first hand. So I know...
Since its a 3 way system, the XO's will be; 250 and 2500 Hz (roughly). Needs to be fine tuned.
What would be cool, if you used a wide bandwidth (or FR driver) from say 120Hz to 10kHz.
Then Bass from 20Hz to 120Hz, and tweeter from 10kHz to 20kHz.
Then you could use first order crossovers
The Seas FR (I am sure there are many more) would work well, when used like this.
Then Bass from 20Hz to 120Hz, and tweeter from 10kHz to 20kHz.
Then you could use first order crossovers
The Seas FR (I am sure there are many more) would work well, when used like this.
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Most drivers perform best within a 3 octave region, at most 4. More than that and you are asking the driver to do too much.
So for now and until I cam convinced of otherwise, I'll stick to the general rules 🙂
And first order does come with its own kinks. First you need expectational driver that can deal with a -6dB/oct slope and does drivers are few and wide apart (and not the Accuton drivers they use). You often also need impedance, baffle compensation and time time correction (Allpass) filters. Just because one use a simple 1st order does not automatically mean better sound quality. On top of that, you have the component to think of and so forth.
So for now and until I cam convinced of otherwise, I'll stick to the general rules 🙂
And first order does come with its own kinks. First you need expectational driver that can deal with a -6dB/oct slope and does drivers are few and wide apart (and not the Accuton drivers they use). You often also need impedance, baffle compensation and time time correction (Allpass) filters. Just because one use a simple 1st order does not automatically mean better sound quality. On top of that, you have the component to think of and so forth.
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You need to hear good FR drivers.
Your mind will be changed forever.
I don't put Seas FR in the excellent category but most likely, excellent when used as suggested.
Once you hear a really good FR you might not ever want to play with regular speakers again.
I guess the other option that works really well is a Coax.
Your mind will be changed forever.
I don't put Seas FR in the excellent category but most likely, excellent when used as suggested.
Once you hear a really good FR you might not ever want to play with regular speakers again.
I guess the other option that works really well is a Coax.
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I like what Elac do with a Coax for Tweeter and Mid Range, then woofer for bass duties.
I think that is a great way to do a conventional 3 way kind of speaker.
I think that is a great way to do a conventional 3 way kind of speaker.
That is most certainly a legit way of doing it and something I've looked into myself.
But a well designed loudspeaker can come close. If you have the opportunity to spend some time with YG Acoustics Hailey 2.2 then I advice you to. It has among the best dispersions of any loudspeakers I've heard and the transition between the midrange and tweeter is well executed.
So I basing my next loudspeaker on that one.
But a well designed loudspeaker can come close. If you have the opportunity to spend some time with YG Acoustics Hailey 2.2 then I advice you to. It has among the best dispersions of any loudspeakers I've heard and the transition between the midrange and tweeter is well executed.
So I basing my next loudspeaker on that one.
There is a fine TG speaker for sale here:
For Sale
It has a built-in Hypex for driving the woofer. The sensitivity seems to be around 92 dB. These are usually "real" numbers were room-gain etc. are not added (like in many commercial speakers as it is a sales parameter). They are nok cheap speaker.....but look at the wood work.
Ellipticor-4
If you have an old Volvo 245 you can pick it up very easy 🙂
For Sale
It has a built-in Hypex for driving the woofer. The sensitivity seems to be around 92 dB. These are usually "real" numbers were room-gain etc. are not added (like in many commercial speakers as it is a sales parameter). They are nok cheap speaker.....but look at the wood work.
Ellipticor-4
If you have an old Volvo 245 you can pick it up very easy 🙂
The Klipsch La Scala is an easy driven speaker for a FirstWatt like amp. I have never heard it but it has good reputation. But then we probably should not ask how the amp sounds at 1W but maybe at 10mW? ....if the amp sounds like "crap" at 1 - 10mW we don't care how it sounds at 1W? 🙂