ok so this is my first subwoofer build. I got the Peerless 830500 brand new from my mate for $100AU and decided to build myself an enclosure. Ive done countless hours of research and come up with:
60ltr Sealed
OR
60ltr Ported
Plate amp : Hypex DS4.0
Ive put the figures in winiSD and posted some pics.
Basically all i want to know is which way would you go if you were in my shoes. Sealed or Ported? I will make the enclosure so i can have a removable back so i can try sealed or ported. But before i go ahead with the build i would like to know people thoughts and get some feedback. My only worry with the ported design is the group delay.
Cheers Mitch.
60ltr Sealed
OR
60ltr Ported
Plate amp : Hypex DS4.0
Ive put the figures in winiSD and posted some pics.
Basically all i want to know is which way would you go if you were in my shoes. Sealed or Ported? I will make the enclosure so i can have a removable back so i can try sealed or ported. But before i go ahead with the build i would like to know people thoughts and get some feedback. My only worry with the ported design is the group delay.
Cheers Mitch.
Attachments
I run two of these in 60L sealed boxes. I much prefer sealed low Q as I think they blend into a real room much better than ported. In a real room, with real room gain, real music, they are very natural. I don't care at all about special effects.
For a sub, group delay in not relevant. You could built it ported and if you use drain pipe for the port, just get a test plug to seal it.
I run an LR4 crossover at 60 Hz using a Parasound 1200 amp.
For a sub, group delay in not relevant. You could built it ported and if you use drain pipe for the port, just get a test plug to seal it.
I run an LR4 crossover at 60 Hz using a Parasound 1200 amp.
thanks for the quick reply tvrgeek. Ive had sealed subs in the past and like them better then ported. With sealed i FEEL the bass more and it is more accurate. Ported was less accurate and didnt blend well. But the subs were all different brand wise and size... but like i said, this is my first build so i will be designing the enclosure so i can remove the back and put another on with ports. So ur subs are EQ? just crossed at 60hz?
I wound up with no eq. Originally I used a DCX so I could tweak a little, but went back to a simple analog crossover. I spent quit a bit of time working with position and the room. Keeping each sub just behind the main helped a lot. Every room is different. I still have a couple of minor issues but the solution is drastic. ( attic based massive bass trap). I tested it with 6 rolls of insulation piled in the corner. Worked very well but WAF was very low.
If your sim is correct, the ported offers about 6 dB more output at 20 Hz, which will sound slightly more than twice as loud to your ear (and probably your "feel").
Tvrgeek's suggestion is good, built it ported and plug the port when accuracy is most desired, leave it open when you want more shake.
The PVC plug is a simple way to do it, though a custom cut hard foam plug can be used for any port shape, a wrap of duct or Gorilla (my favorite) tape makes it easy to pull out.
Art
i will be getting the wood cut on friday. It will be 1inch thick mdf. Ill then put it together next week sometime. Ill post pics. Like i said in previous posts, ive designed the enclosure so i can completely remove the back of the enclosure. Ill have 2 backs. 1 plain and the other with the ports. Ill keep everyone up to date with my progress 🙂. Thankyou for your replies.
6" dia. Plastic Sewer Pipe
MLStrand56
I used a 6" diameter plastic sewer pipe for a port. It's easy to tune just by cutting it to the proper length. I used a 8" waffle speaker grill to cover the port. I was afraid that with out the grill, one of my cats would crawl in there.
MLStrand56
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