I've been wanting to do that for a while, actually. Most SPICE simulators can load a .wav file into a voltage or current source. Alternatively, it shouldn't be that hard to do the same in python or similar language and just have it do the math. It just hasn't bubbled to the top of the priority stack yet. 🙂
Tom
you can use the small heatsinks if you add an active ventilation to it like in personal computers on the chips
For a single LM3886 i use Fischer elektronik SK 85/75/SA. (1.2 K/W) Costs about 16 EUR.
For two units you may use longer type SK 85 100 SA .
For two units you may use longer type SK 85 100 SA .
I ended up using the big heatsink. I am waiting for the paint on the top plate to cure so it is not installed yet, but you get the idea. I ran it for a while and it barely got warm, so I am sure it will be fine when I install the top plate. But driving La Sacalas doesn't take much power.
Yeah. You definitely want vent holes. Otherwise all you have is a thermal mass. That'll help some but it'll overheat eventually.
Tom
Tom
Yes I make my own enclosures, I have been doing it for years. I normally build tube gear but have built solid state phono preamps.
I have holes in the bottom and back to allow some ventilation. I will monitor the temperature
when I put the top plate on.
I am not sure what you mean by a dangerous time in the build?
The danger is, you might not finish the build, but instead add the finishing touches, forever 🙂
I don't see holes to assist air rising up through the heatsink. It might be a bad look to put some in the lid over the heatsink, but a 20mm hole in the base plate, maybe 10mm back from the amp chips, would increase convection currents there a lot.
I bet it stays cold anyway. That's a big slab of metal.
Thanks, It is painted, I use primer, Krylon Hammered Black then clear coat. It hides a lot of imperfections and looks decent enough. It holds up quite well too. Been using this method for several years. I start with 22ga steel sheets, cut and form them myself.
I put holes in the bottom and back to set up a small convection air current inside the enclosure. The heatsink has rather large fins with spacing and the fins are outside of the enclosure. I ran this playing music for over an hour and the enclosure/heatsink were still cool to touch, not even warm. I thought that with the huge heatsink and the enclosure size it would stay cool. If I do have any issues with overheating I can deal with that, I doubt that it will be needed though.
Very cool. I appreciate the DIY chassis work. I used to do that, though I worked in aluminum.
Tom
While the heat sink is probably not working as efficiently as it could, I bet there's still a lot of airflow if you have holes in the bottom. And it's a sizeable heat sink to begin with. I'm sure it'll be fine. Not everything in life has to be optimal. 🙂
Tom
I did too at first, but for me, steel is easier to work with and paint than aluminum.
A step drill bit like this, it makes good holes for tubes.
I have a YouTube channel where I document some of my builds and repairs, including enclosures. If you are interested.
https://youtube.com/@cytowing3353?si=JLq6f4lGRTDzZgvW