If I had to select one based on performance as a whole for that cost or less, it really limits the easy cabinetry aspect, I would have to select the Zingers. It's not that I'm selecting it because it is my design. It tapers off the tweeter gradually toward the xover point to keep them from getting harsh, and this is great for rock and metal. It also helps with the blend of the 8" woofer in the design so that there is no peak in the directivity transition. The tweeter is a gem at its price point, and is very resolving of details. The woofer will slam and dig, while it kicks you in the gut, and is low HD below 300Hz. These are 86dB sensitivity, and 4 ohms, so a little more power on tap may be appreciated. I have drawn up both stand-mount and floor-standing cabs for this design. While it's not a 3-way, it exhibits a lot of the characteristics of an average three-way minus the midrange. I know that is not a knock-down cabinet.
In listening to my pair, they put a smile on my face, and beg me to turn them up. Meniscus has the kits.
https://meniscusaudio.com/product/zingers-speaker-kit/
I think the second entry I would like to recommend here would be the DARPA Jr. They won the micro 3-way challenge back a bit at the InDIYana event, and they sounded VERY good. I think they would do you very well. If the width matches the Amiga, you could transplant the DARPA Jr. into the "Amiga" tower cabs if you tilt them back a smidge like the design requires. It's the same woofer.
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...-the-2015-indiyana-winning-micro-3-way-design
In listening to my pair, they put a smile on my face, and beg me to turn them up. Meniscus has the kits.
https://meniscusaudio.com/product/zingers-speaker-kit/
I think the second entry I would like to recommend here would be the DARPA Jr. They won the micro 3-way challenge back a bit at the InDIYana event, and they sounded VERY good. I think they would do you very well. If the width matches the Amiga, you could transplant the DARPA Jr. into the "Amiga" tower cabs if you tilt them back a smidge like the design requires. It's the same woofer.
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...-the-2015-indiyana-winning-micro-3-way-design
Ebay has a Peavey SP2-ti in RoundRock TX for $150. Next nearest pair is Grinnell Iowa. Seriously ugly. Check craigslist, too. Don't ship speakers UPS, too big.
I'm listening to SP2(2004) I picked up for $400 the pair. +-3db 54 hz 17.5 khz. 99 db 1w1m so you wouldn't need a bigger amp. Will jiggle your innards at 100 w, max power 500 w. I listen mostly at 1/4 to 70 w in my music room.
I also loved some Peavey SP2-XT 101 db 1w1m, that the burglar liked so much he took them to his fence.
Take a CD player & amp to audition ebay finds: speakers are not the same with cheapo replacement drivers. Both sets SP2 sounded great. Amp because the previous SP2 owner wouldn't let me plug a CD player into his amp. Was afraid I would blow it up.
I'm listening to SP2(2004) I picked up for $400 the pair. +-3db 54 hz 17.5 khz. 99 db 1w1m so you wouldn't need a bigger amp. Will jiggle your innards at 100 w, max power 500 w. I listen mostly at 1/4 to 70 w in my music room.
I also loved some Peavey SP2-XT 101 db 1w1m, that the burglar liked so much he took them to his fence.
Take a CD player & amp to audition ebay finds: speakers are not the same with cheapo replacement drivers. Both sets SP2 sounded great. Amp because the previous SP2 owner wouldn't let me plug a CD player into his amp. Was afraid I would blow it up.
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These are going in my living room. Haha, I appreciate the suggestions, but I'm not buying anything like this.
Thanks. I'll read up on the Zingers a bit.
Historically, metal/rock is all about the mid-bass, so looking to the pioneers' home/stage/studio monitors, prosound alignments, for HIFI we ideally want a flat as practical 80 -1 kHz, rolling off 4th order to a ~40 Hz Fb and use room placement/EQ to boost to 'taste' the ~50-150 Hz BW; the venue, horn size/type, band EQ dictates the rest of a live venue's bass/tweeter performance, so strictly a personal preference in home.
With DSP becoming the norm, choosing a kit/whatever boils down to size, cost, desired efficiency, (most) optimal tuning frequency, driver size/type, so lots of options nowadays.
Regardless, of the two, with no horns neither work for me, so boils down to whichever has the highest efficiency and/or draws the least current to keep thermal power distortion as low as practical.
With DSP becoming the norm, choosing a kit/whatever boils down to size, cost, desired efficiency, (most) optimal tuning frequency, driver size/type, so lots of options nowadays.
Regardless, of the two, with no horns neither work for me, so boils down to whichever has the highest efficiency and/or draws the least current to keep thermal power distortion as low as practical.
A good speaker is a good speaker. Rock or chamber music, it does not matter.
What you need to consider is how loud and how much bass extension you need. Music only, or HT special effects? If the form factor allows a floor stander, if you are going to run subs. Then consider id you are in an apartment, you can't play loud or deep anyway.
The DIY I have my eyes on is the out of stock CSS T1. A close behind are a couple of the SB designs Jeff did. A friend keeps gushing over the SAcanSpeak designs he just build. Don't remember if Revelators or the ones with the HDS tweeters. My mains are a slightly modified version of the Zaph SR-71. They were too bright. After tweaking the crossover, I switched to the Al/Mg domes and tweaked the crossover some more.
What you need to consider is how loud and how much bass extension you need. Music only, or HT special effects? If the form factor allows a floor stander, if you are going to run subs. Then consider id you are in an apartment, you can't play loud or deep anyway.
The DIY I have my eyes on is the out of stock CSS T1. A close behind are a couple of the SB designs Jeff did. A friend keeps gushing over the SAcanSpeak designs he just build. Don't remember if Revelators or the ones with the HDS tweeters. My mains are a slightly modified version of the Zaph SR-71. They were too bright. After tweaking the crossover, I switched to the Al/Mg domes and tweaked the crossover some more.
That goes without saying around here. Unfortunately even the best speakers for HIFI can fall short when trying to replicate at least some of the 'feel' of a live event, which is usually what folks that lists a specific type of music wants to focus on, so spec'ing a truly 'full range' system for a low B pipe organ symphony or anything in between is a wasted effort IME.
Factor in the YouTube videos of some of the bands listed that are definitely not my memory of rock/metal that an all around good speaker could handle left me no choice but to post some well proven guidelines since the necessary prosound systems or DIY versions apparently aren't an option.
Interesting! Thought CSS folded its tent ages ago now, though for sure it had quality products/designs that's been languishing in a closet for far too long now. 🙁
The T1 looks like a sweet deal, but doesn't have enough low distortion dynamic headroom for me, nor for 01svtL based on his 'Loud listening sessions (95-100db)'.
Factor in the YouTube videos of some of the bands listed that are definitely not my memory of rock/metal that an all around good speaker could handle left me no choice but to post some well proven guidelines since the necessary prosound systems or DIY versions apparently aren't an option.
Interesting! Thought CSS folded its tent ages ago now, though for sure it had quality products/designs that's been languishing in a closet for far too long now. 🙁
The T1 looks like a sweet deal, but doesn't have enough low distortion dynamic headroom for me, nor for 01svtL based on his 'Loud listening sessions (95-100db)'.
If you want to play your rock loud then I would look for something a bit more robust. Pi Speakers are designed in the USA and you can order them prebuilt or in kits or join the forum on Audioroundtable and request the plans for the model you like. You can then source your own drivers and crossover parts. The only part you need to purchase from Pi is the horn flares if you are going for a design with a horn loaded tweeter. I built a set of Pi 3 with upgraded drivers and crossovers. They are the perfect speaker for loud music, and are voiced to be pleasant to listen to for long periods. If built properly they will play effortlessly at very loud levels with 95 DB sensitivity and high power handling. They are better balanced if placed against a wall or even in a corner. Downsides are the size and the expense of good quality pro audio drivers. You also need to be careful with the volume control. It’s easy to play hm too loud for your own good, due to the effortless dynamics and the low listening fatigue. They are the only speaker I have owned that I could play as loudly as I wanted without worrying about damaging them.
https://www.pispeakers.com/contents.html
https://www.pispeakers.com/contents.html
I'm assuming you guys are referring to the 1T? I don't see a T1 on their website.
While not exact, I used a DB meter and played at about the level I'm talking about last night. At my sitting position, which is almost exactly 10' to the speaker, from my ear, the app was reading 92-93 db, with some quick spikes to 96-97 at certain parts of songs. Granted, I don't get to do that often, but when I do, it's probably for a good 30-40 min. I also crank it when I'm working on things around the house, so that could be a couple of hours.
