Have you considered building a Honey Badger in a Jack of all Chassis from the store? It makes the "heat sink stuff" really easy. Ostripper has a BOM that you can import into a Mouser order, sort of a DIY kit. As specified, it is roughly 150W, but you can reduce the power transformer to 35-40 VAC to get roughly 100 or 125W without any engineering. At lower rails you could reduce the voltage rating of the main filter caps and save a few bucks but it's not necessary.
An F5Turbo can also be configured as a 100W amp, but is a bit more complex and might be frustrating since you don't seem to enjoy the electronic side of this hobby. (Yet.)
Dennis Murphy certainly knows his way around speaker design. Have you asked him why he said you need 100W? It could be that the impedance dips fairly low and he wants to be sure you don't run out of current capability. Many of the lower power designs here can deliver plenty of current, some of the more modest commercial amps and class D amps cannot.
It also could be something as simple as your speaker sensitivity will be around 85 dB/ 1W. To achieve 105 dB peaks, you'll need 20 dB more power - 100W assuming no power compression.
I've noticed similar sonic performances as AndrewT. Besides topology differences I think it has a lot to do with staying away from an amplifier's limits. Headroom. Good luck with your project. I hope you share it.
He mentioned it will probably turn out to be about 86-87db sensitive. If an F5 turbo can do 100wpc and it can be had for under $1000 with the labor to achieve that 100wpc ill just save for that. Especially since I am building a Pass B1.
I will def share pics. of everything.
F5 is Class A Push Pull amp so you really need BIG HEATSINKS and Stiff Power supply which will definitely add costs...but its your call...
Now you're into the 5U chassis. If you want to bias an F5T to its full potential then you are probably going to need to do monoblocks at 100W, although you can make it run Class AB at higher powers so you can still go stereo in a 5U chassis. As a stereo amp you might bend your budget a wee bit, definitely bust it as monoblocks. If the numbers are right for the thermal efficiency of the big cases, a 100W stereo F5t would run at about 57C in a 20C room. http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_f5_turbo.pdf
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AKSA/NAKSA
There's a useful review here of the 80 but Google will find plenty of opinions
It's still overseas (I presume) but the NAKSA is pretty close to your needs.<snip>
Being a woodworker/carpenter, I am not so thrilled about doing pcb stuff and worrying about heat sinks and all that other jazz.
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But I still like Class A/B the best. It is probably psychological.
There's a useful review here of the 80 but Google will find plenty of opinions
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