Keep in mind the carbon track (or conductive plastic) is not the thing that goes noisy. It is the metallic contacts.
The carbon track can very well become noisy if it's scraped down too much or if the acid in the contact spray destroyed too much of it. The conductive plastic is more resilient to that but not completely immune.
No mechanical component is 100 % immune to wear and tear.
Definitely get the Caig deOxit and not a copy. It doesn't make sense to save a buck to get an inferior product. Unless you do repairs for a living you're not likely to use a lot of it and it's not like it goes stale in the can.
Tom
Definitely get the Caig deOxit and not a copy. It doesn't make sense to save a buck to get an inferior product. Unless you do repairs for a living you're not likely to use a lot of it and it's not like it goes stale in the can.
Tom
Right, but do not accelerate the wear by using too much cleaner, or the wrong cleaner.
Most industrial or space applications do not use consumer chemicals (Caig or otherwise). They use stuff that works and causes the least damage used properly. If audiophile chemicals were superior, they would use it in aerospace applications. They do not.
@anatech: I may be wrong, but it may be that “consumer chemicals” are not used in such applications because they have not been tested and certified to meet the milspec or other applicable standards as set forth by the contractor. Oftentimes, the same “consumer product” is produced under stricter mfg conditions, but always includes testing and development and retention of a documentation trail, which must be retained for an (often long) specified period of time. These requirements add cost. Thus, the same consumer part is sold to the aerospace user at a much higher price, in order to recoup the costs of compliance with the procurement spec.
While I am sure many chemicals and materials are prohibited for certain applications, esp solvents and carriers and additives, fundamentally the active ingredients for aerospace are often the same as the consumer product.
That said, proper selection and use-not overuse-of a product is always a good idea.
While I am sure many chemicals and materials are prohibited for certain applications, esp solvents and carriers and additives, fundamentally the active ingredients for aerospace are often the same as the consumer product.
That said, proper selection and use-not overuse-of a product is always a good idea.
It is more complicated than that. Often times, the industrial chemical requires more careful use due to harmful ingredients. These make it more effective, but your average person won't adhere to safety information. I have some I had to get authorization to have for example. Additionally, the purity and levels of contaminates are controlled.
Once a product has been certified, it can be sold to anyone as long as it isn't dangerous. That cost has already been dealt with. Industry uses far more than consumers by a large margin. It makes no sense making a very similar product that could be certified. Imagine the marketing cache of being used in aerospace.
I have tried every single cleaner available to me over the decades. I use what works, I don't have time to mess around. Additives are generally bad things. You want a zero residue cleaner, those tend to be very flammable. Make no mistake, if you are repairing avionics and you have a cleaner that is less expensive that is as effective and safe, you're going to use it! They are running a business just like anyone else. They absolutely do not waste money.
Once a product has been certified, it can be sold to anyone as long as it isn't dangerous. That cost has already been dealt with. Industry uses far more than consumers by a large margin. It makes no sense making a very similar product that could be certified. Imagine the marketing cache of being used in aerospace.
I have tried every single cleaner available to me over the decades. I use what works, I don't have time to mess around. Additives are generally bad things. You want a zero residue cleaner, those tend to be very flammable. Make no mistake, if you are repairing avionics and you have a cleaner that is less expensive that is as effective and safe, you're going to use it! They are running a business just like anyone else. They absolutely do not waste money.
I 've been using "Kontakt 60" for almost two decades. It doesn't leave a dry finish though if that's important.
Depends. If it is an oil residue it may attract dust. That would be my big worry. Then sometimes the residue can wick up into other components, causing failure after some years. Electrolytic caps and some transistors are susceptible.
Getting any cleaner into a trimmer capacitor is extremely bad news. Think overspray or just carelessness. Anything with oils or any fluid that remains means you need a new trimmer capacitor. It changes the dielectric constant, and worse is variable with temperature.
Like any tool, chemicals need to be used properly and in the right circumstances. Control/contact cleaners are the most abused thing on a bench.
Getting any cleaner into a trimmer capacitor is extremely bad news. Think overspray or just carelessness. Anything with oils or any fluid that remains means you need a new trimmer capacitor. It changes the dielectric constant, and worse is variable with temperature.
Like any tool, chemicals need to be used properly and in the right circumstances. Control/contact cleaners are the most abused thing on a bench.
Hear hear ! I stlii remember a blazing fire inside Audio Research preamplifier I was cleaning with high flammable cleaner in a sink . I have no idea where the spark came from..
Some cleaners are not plastic friendly at all. They will also attack electronic components.
"Safe for all plastics" is what you need to look for. Then, don't trust it, test on a broken CD case.
Edit:
Yikes!
"Safe for all plastics" is what you need to look for. Then, don't trust it, test on a broken CD case.
Edit:
Yikes!
The thing which save my ar...se was that the cleaner burned so intensely and quick with flames reaching the upper cabinets that after I flooded the pre with a water from the faucet only slightly " crusted " capacitors were looking slightly suspect 🙂 . It worked like a charm too ...
Kontakt 60 has an agressive oxide dissolving ingredient, that is harmful to metal parts on the long term. It is not meant for lubrication. After a couple of minutes it should be completely washed off by Kontakt WL. The final contact treatment is Kontakt 61.
D5 and all the " 5" series means the active ingredient is 5%
The other 75% is mineral spirits the other 20 % is propellant
D actually has oxidation removal chemical the same typical acids as all the other brands.
For switch contacts you can have a more aggressive mix to de oxidize, for others their is same old formulas
to not harm resistive contacts....as much.
D5 is universal for pots and switches so is a weaker more friendly mix.
G is for gold contacts, it has no de oxidation chemicals. is a coating for gold contacts.
To be more confusing the 5% volume of normal D5 is considered to have 20% de oxidation capability's.
Gold is considered to have .5 percent de oxidation capabilities. Not a volume rating, a cleaning ability rating.
Some gold series are 0 % de oxidation capability's , who cares it is for gold. whatever blah blah blah.
F series is a lubricant, plastic safe, AKA same old silicone based lube that does not degrade plastic.
it does not contain de oxidizing chemicals. 5 series is 5% lube the rest is mineral spirits.
100 series is no mineral spirits it is lube, thick like any other silicone lube
It is actually for sliding faders. which have more friction. or for plastic shaft pots. you cant put oil based on plastic.
has to be silicone that is it.
For pots or very old pots the metal shaft will start to bind to the metal bushing. or straight lock up from moisture.
From the front of the pot you lubricate the shaft. Easier with F100 lube or " 100%" mix aka no mineral spirits water down. Its normal silicone lube.
Metal dont matter, if plastic like cheapo pots from 70's on up. It is just " universal" aka normal silicone for plastic, not oil based.
Like basic 10 or 5 or lighter weight sewing machine oil.
DeOxit has good marketing so you hear the typical it is better than all the rest yada yada yada blah blah.
When if only cleaning switches you can use a more aggressive cleaner.
Except again in the 70's you start seeing soft membrane panel switches so D5 is basically universal for modern plastic junk from 70s on up.
And again since many switches are full of plastic, these cleaners are plastic safe and the 75% of what your buying is safe as well for plastic " universal"
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