Trying a bi-colour Led at the moment, It's red/yellow, I want it to look orange but the yellow is dominating, I'll have to try separate resisitors to cut down the yellow a bit.
(currently using 220 ohms off 4.2V ac)
(currently using 220 ohms off 4.2V ac)
I'm the only vote for yellow???
I love the retro appeal. It always makes me think of that scene in the hunt for red october when the americans board the red october and it's got those yellow lights blinking for the (simulated) radiation leak.
I don't know why that's significant though.
I love the retro appeal. It always makes me think of that scene in the hunt for red october when the americans board the red october and it's got those yellow lights blinking for the (simulated) radiation leak.
I don't know why that's significant though.
Two problems with blue LED: one, it's annoying to the eye, as already mentioned; two, it became so trendy that it is certain to look very old-fashioned in the near future (anyone remember the fad for DATA70 typeface, and how old-fashioned all those businesses who put it into their logos soon looked?).
[OT] I've always liked the green that electroluminescent panels make - does anyone know if these panels generate a lot of noise, or shouldn't be used for some other reason? If not, they seem like they might work well as power indicators, since they run on mains current... [/OT]
Regards.
Aengus
[OT] I've always liked the green that electroluminescent panels make - does anyone know if these panels generate a lot of noise, or shouldn't be used for some other reason? If not, they seem like they might work well as power indicators, since they run on mains current... [/OT]
Regards.
Aengus
I've always liked the green that electroluminescent panels make - does anyone know if these panels generate a lot of noise, or shouldn't be used for some other reason? If not, they seem like they might work well as power indicators, since they run on mains current
They need around 120V at a few tens of kilohertz. The required switching inverter is thus a great source of radio frequency noise - and needs effective shielding.
The FL panels are also short lived compared to LEDs.
Plus a good few tens of dollars for a power on/off indicator? (Compared to 5c for an LED!)
I hate the blue of blue LEDs. What would be nice as an indicator would be the aquamarine of VFL alphanumeric displays - not sure if LEDs come in that colour. Yet.
Which coloured LED
I prefer the UV LED. Unlike Blue LEDs which can light up a small room at night, even at low current, the UV LED such as the attached from Jaycar, looks classy,and not obtrusive.
SandyK
CAT. NO. ZD0260 RRP $4.95
LED 5MM CLR UV 60MCD
Emitted colour: UVLens colour: clearWave length: 395nm: Pd W: If mA: If mA (peak): Min: Vf (V) Typ: 3.7Max: 4.2
I prefer the UV LED. Unlike Blue LEDs which can light up a small room at night, even at low current, the UV LED such as the attached from Jaycar, looks classy,and not obtrusive.
SandyK
CAT. NO. ZD0260 RRP $4.95
LED 5MM CLR UV 60MCD
Emitted colour: UVLens colour: clearWave length: 395nm: Pd W: If mA: If mA (peak): Min: Vf (V) Typ: 3.7Max: 4.2
I like my old tape deck - DISPLAY OFF. Play is Green. This BLUE thing is a bit Cookuku this days - Blue Ray, blue display, blue LEDs. "Blue" Fashion... I like Weldon's comment "Green means go, red means stop. Amber means she's about to blow!"
Generally, red. It's a symbol of heat, thus associating with power, quite simple.
Natural orange of the filament of tube is even better, if there'd be one.
Natural orange of the filament of tube is even better, if there'd be one.
I've been on a purple LED kick for a while,but I like blue too. I think the purple LED's I have might make a bit of UV,or perhaps they are UV LED's(dunno,cheap/surplus),because they have a 'funny glow' about them.
White LED's can be cool too.
Edit: I forgot,I have one amp with a RGB rainbow LED in it! 🙂
White LED's can be cool too.
Edit: I forgot,I have one amp with a RGB rainbow LED in it! 🙂
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Color of led's ... wow. This is definitely a fanatic topic. I have 9 led's on(in) my amp , (4 red's for my beloved CCS's) , (red/blue for +- rails) and a green/ red bi-color for power on /softstart.
The blues are visible through the front Plexiglas window, shining DOWN on the 1.5 KVA toroid /supply caps for that "evil power" look. They do have a use, as well ... to confirm the auxiliary supply's operation.
OS
The blues are visible through the front Plexiglas window, shining DOWN on the 1.5 KVA toroid /supply caps for that "evil power" look. They do have a use, as well ... to confirm the auxiliary supply's operation.
OS
My favourite colour is blue (possibly because I am red/green colourblind) however I hate Blue power indicators! I've voted for green, however both of my amps actually have Neon's as power indicators, not LED's 🙂
Tony.
Tony.
I positively HATE blue LEDs! I have removed them from any piece of equipment that I have that came with them. I prefer a diffused red or green in my solid state stuff. For tube gear I use neon or incandescent.
Bill
Bill
I really do like that blue LED...It must have a ultraviolet component as it looks way weird, almost an ethereal look to it. Tubes and this color go together perfectly.
There is one in our bedroom in the cable-box....it functions almost as creepy nite-light.
All other colors look old fashioned.
_________________________________________________________________________________________Rick...........
There is one in our bedroom in the cable-box....it functions almost as creepy nite-light.
All other colors look old fashioned.
_________________________________________________________________________________________Rick...........
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Originally posted by Steerpike
They need around 120V at a few tens of kilohertz. The required switching inverter is thus a great source of radio frequency noise - and needs effective shielding.
The FL panels are also short lived compared to LEDs.
Plus a good few tens of dollars for a power on/off indicator? (Compared to 5c for an LED!)
Steerpike, thank you for the response - what you describe sounds not ideal; but are we talking about the same thing? Here one can buy for a couple of dollars a nightlight, based, I had thought, on an electroluminescent panel. It will typically be only about 6mm thick, will have a green glowing area about 25x40 mm, with a 6mm or so plastic frame around it (all these dimensions are based on my hazy recollection of the one I once had but now don't). Sticking out the back will be two prongs such that it can be plugged into a wall socket. Can the switching inverter be put into such a small space? And definitely not tens of dollars.
I suppose I should go look for another one, plug it in, and stick a scope on the powerline for a before/after look.
Regards.
Aengus
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