Do what you want to do but I can promise you with a that small capacitor none of the capacitor changes will solve your problem. I won't argue any more, I'm out.
When you say double do you mean add another capacitor in line with the one already attached to the tweeter?
I only tuned the amplifier to the tweeters by themselves, the subwoofers and midrange speakers aren’t even hooked up, this is a bench test of just the fullrange amplifier running the tweeters, four of them. When you say double do you mean add another capacitor in line with the one already attached to the tweeter?
I am going to guess that you need two 2.2uF in parallel and one 2.2uF in series with them.
Doubling is placing one on top of another and halving them is placing one behind the other, make sense. It is not straight arithmetic.
The more you place in series (one after another) the less voices you will hear.
Hi Franxxaudio,
You didn't give all the real specs for the tweeter. You can't expect the members to do all your work since your question isn't an easy one. I'm not going to go through the ad, that was your job before you decided on and bought the tweeters.
You said your power levels were 300 watts. Well, a first order crossover is not going to cut it. You also have not indicated you are rolling the highs off from the collection of mid drivers. It looks like a DJ system, or a dance hall system, but you could be sticking it together for home too I guess. What amplifiers are you using? What is the listening space like?
We know so little about what you're doing and you have a complaint that really needs a system approach. Increasing the capacitance will increase power levels seen by the tweeters and risks burnout. If there are highs coming from the mids, it won't sound very good either. Your tweeters are getting too much low frequency information from what you said, so the slope is clearly not steep enough as well.
I told you want you need to pay attention to. It's time to do some work and study to even understand what you should be asking. Some people are even trained to do this work instead of guessing and reading on the internet.
One thing for sure, I am not going to design a system for you, especially given minimal information. You should have started with the system requirements and purchased the drivers you needed afterwards, and also any crossovers be they electronic or passive. I gather you bought a pile of stuff and need someone to rescue you because it doesn't just work like you thought it should.
You didn't give all the real specs for the tweeter. You can't expect the members to do all your work since your question isn't an easy one. I'm not going to go through the ad, that was your job before you decided on and bought the tweeters.
You said your power levels were 300 watts. Well, a first order crossover is not going to cut it. You also have not indicated you are rolling the highs off from the collection of mid drivers. It looks like a DJ system, or a dance hall system, but you could be sticking it together for home too I guess. What amplifiers are you using? What is the listening space like?
We know so little about what you're doing and you have a complaint that really needs a system approach. Increasing the capacitance will increase power levels seen by the tweeters and risks burnout. If there are highs coming from the mids, it won't sound very good either. Your tweeters are getting too much low frequency information from what you said, so the slope is clearly not steep enough as well.
I told you want you need to pay attention to. It's time to do some work and study to even understand what you should be asking. Some people are even trained to do this work instead of guessing and reading on the internet.
One thing for sure, I am not going to design a system for you, especially given minimal information. You should have started with the system requirements and purchased the drivers you needed afterwards, and also any crossovers be they electronic or passive. I gather you bought a pile of stuff and need someone to rescue you because it doesn't just work like you thought it should.
Is it possible for you to draw that out please so I can see how to hook it up exactly please. I only have the 8 2.2 uF capacitors available at the moment if I need a different value please let me know so I can order some. We only want symbol sounds of such to come out the tweeter no vocals, thank you. 🙏🏼
You are doing what I was trying 50 years ago, and what you are doing now is learning. Don't worry we will get to your expectation.
Does it make sense. You may end up placing three in series (one after the other)
I am building a demo vehicle
8 4 ohm midrange 8” drivers on one 2k watt full range 1 channel amp at 2 ohm
8 4 ohm midrange 10” drivers on one 4K watt full range 4 channel amp at 2 ohms per channel
8 4-8 ohm tweeters on 2 1200.1 full range amps at 1 ohm per amp four tweeters per amp
4 18” DSS Savage sub woofers on 4 7k watt sub amps at 1 ohm per amp
2 120ah lithium battery banks
2 350 amp alternators
1 Pioneer DMH 2300 head unit
Yes perfect sense, so it will be trial and error trying the different combinations is what I should start trying
The tweeter specs say they are 4 to 8 ohm.
Taking the middle value of 6 ohm, we can calculate the frequency at which the tweeter response begins to slowly roll off.
For the 2.2 uF currently fitted that will be 12,000 Hz, but there will still be audible output at 6,000 Hz.
For 1.1 uF (two 2.2 uF connected end to end) it will be 24,000 Hz with noticeable output at 12,000 Hz.
Are you getting the results you need? When you find what sounds like what you expect, we will add the lot together and you can replace it with a single capacitor. Ater your trail and error and you want a sharper cut off we can add an inductor across your tweeter. Life is simpler than it seems.
Whatever music you're listening to, get the karaoke version . . . and then don't sing along.
Hi Franxxaudio,
Okay, I was involved in car audio since the 1970's. I did product from Alpine, McIntosh, Nakamichi, Denon and a bunch of other brands under warranty.
Amplifiers are typically less than 50% efficient. So, take the total system power and divide it by 12 to get the total current at 12 VDC, then double it. Less than 13.8 or 14.4V? Yup, voltage drops. So this will be your peak current draw - time for a reality check. Capacitors and additional batteries can help, but they do not cure everything or sustained power.
You need to make the speakers as efficient as possible, and that means boxes (enclosures) That are the right size or it will sound "not great" to put it nicely. Current is your enemy as it leads to voltage drops and heat. You want to use the power you actually need, and clean.
I once put a system together for a guy, 16 x 8" woofers in the correct sized boxes. Someone talked him into 10" x 16. His winning truck turned into a losing truck. He was winning on SPL and quality before.
Engineering and design will trump a ton of money thrown at something every single time. Start with the speakers and enclosures, use only the power you do need and base the electrical system on that. This will also be the least expensive solution.
So in a car, each amplifier will be fed a specific frequency range from an electronic crossover. Using a passive crossover will not deliver anything close to something worth listening to.
Okay, I was involved in car audio since the 1970's. I did product from Alpine, McIntosh, Nakamichi, Denon and a bunch of other brands under warranty.
Amplifiers are typically less than 50% efficient. So, take the total system power and divide it by 12 to get the total current at 12 VDC, then double it. Less than 13.8 or 14.4V? Yup, voltage drops. So this will be your peak current draw - time for a reality check. Capacitors and additional batteries can help, but they do not cure everything or sustained power.
You need to make the speakers as efficient as possible, and that means boxes (enclosures) That are the right size or it will sound "not great" to put it nicely. Current is your enemy as it leads to voltage drops and heat. You want to use the power you actually need, and clean.
I once put a system together for a guy, 16 x 8" woofers in the correct sized boxes. Someone talked him into 10" x 16. His winning truck turned into a losing truck. He was winning on SPL and quality before.
Engineering and design will trump a ton of money thrown at something every single time. Start with the speakers and enclosures, use only the power you do need and base the electrical system on that. This will also be the least expensive solution.
So in a car, each amplifier will be fed a specific frequency range from an electronic crossover. Using a passive crossover will not deliver anything close to something worth listening to.
Keep in mind that you do not want to cut the mids so that it disappears in the road and engine noise. Sorry I should not preach to car installers, I know little about this area of audio.
Hi Nico,
These are normally stationary demonstrations using external power at contests. Otherwise idling in the parking lot. "Show-off" time is driving down a main road slowly with it cranked, or at the hangout, whatever it may be. So running down the road with road noise or higher revs is not normally a concern for a demonstration vehicle.
These are normally stationary demonstrations using external power at contests. Otherwise idling in the parking lot. "Show-off" time is driving down a main road slowly with it cranked, or at the hangout, whatever it may be. So running down the road with road noise or higher revs is not normally a concern for a demonstration vehicle.
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