Choosing which capacitor value is needed to X out vocal frequencies. Currently I’m using 100V2.2uf and vocals are still coming through 🥺. My amplifiers have full range signals going to my tweeters and I have HP going to the from the head unit. I’d like to change the value of these to take out all vocal frequencies completely, which capacitors should I get? Thank you for reading
In all seriousness pretty much any value will work as long as it is being used in a coupling capacity and you snip each lead and remove the big piece at the center. Of course, the more expensive the component the more effective it will seem.
There is a solution in filtering but it is quite complicated when you are new. It is not a matter of trial and error but formulas and calculations to do.
There is also a need for specific information of brand and type number of the units, if it is a 2 or 3 way system and so on.
If you have separate amplifiers for high, mid and low you better filter actively before the power amplifiers. Easier, cheaper, better.
People here need data to prevent the “car for sale, color red” syndrome.
There is also a need for specific information of brand and type number of the units, if it is a 2 or 3 way system and so on.
If you have separate amplifiers for high, mid and low you better filter actively before the power amplifiers. Easier, cheaper, better.
People here need data to prevent the “car for sale, color red” syndrome.
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If you really want to do this it is something much better done in the digital domain - there are numerous applications that can do this with varying levels of success (none perfect unless using multitrack master tapes) but trying to do it with any degree of success via analog is... not impossible but close enough to count.
So the capacitor the tweeter comes with is letting vocals through, it’s a 100v 2.2uf, these are 4” compression tweeters that I’m putting 300 watts to. Which value capacitor can I use instead of these to eliminate the vocals?In all seriousness pretty much any value will work as long as it is being used in a coupling capacity and you snip each lead and remove the big piece at the center. Of course, the more expensive the component the more effective it will seem.
I think OP means both tweeter and woofer are not filtered and both get signals of wrong frequencies.
That is what I decipher with my Enigma from “full signal to the tweeters”.
That is what I decipher with my Enigma from “full signal to the tweeters”.
I think OP means both tweeter and woofer are not filtered and both get signals of wrong frequencies.
That is what I decipher with my Enigma from “full signal to the tweeters”.
Possibly... but, damn, that seems to be taking "the benefit of the doubt" to extremes. Much, much funnier as written 😀
As a non native english speaker I am used to deciphering native english speakers texts. Sometimes I even explain the text to the person that wrote the text.
Well, good luck with that... even as a native english speaker I have a tough time trying to understand what some people are trying to say 🤔
I am installing 8 of these. Mine are older and it looks like they are using 250v 2.2uf now. Mine came with 100v 2.2uf. Are these what I need to buy?
Hi Franxxaudio,
I'm going to assume you mean you need a crossover design.
You need to determine what frequency range each driver operates in. At such high powers, if they are indeed that high, you need a sharper slope on the crossover. That is more complicated, dissipates power (lowers efficiency) and costs a lot more to do.
The recommendations for an electronic crossover are valid. You can't do this simply by throwing a random capacitor in. The crossover point depends on driver impedance at those frequencies. The slope to keep the tweeter from burning out depends on power handling in the driver (tweeter in this case). A single capacitor rolls off at -6 dB/oct, not nearly fast enough. You also need to keep the highs out of the woofer.
I'm going to assume you mean you need a crossover design.
You need to determine what frequency range each driver operates in. At such high powers, if they are indeed that high, you need a sharper slope on the crossover. That is more complicated, dissipates power (lowers efficiency) and costs a lot more to do.
The recommendations for an electronic crossover are valid. You can't do this simply by throwing a random capacitor in. The crossover point depends on driver impedance at those frequencies. The slope to keep the tweeter from burning out depends on power handling in the driver (tweeter in this case). A single capacitor rolls off at -6 dB/oct, not nearly fast enough. You also need to keep the highs out of the woofer.
That was not a dig at the OP, BTW, more of a comment on how poorly the typical US english speaker is able to use grammatically correct english. But that is probably to be expected given the quality (or lack thereof) of the scholastic system.
And, thanks @anatech, for stepping in and turning this into an actually helpful discussion
And, thanks @anatech, for stepping in and turning this into an actually helpful discussion

I just need to know which capacitor to swap out these with to eliminate vocals bc the capacitors on them definitely don’t eliminate vocals and vocals sound horrible coming out of these. I have 8 8’s and 8 10’s for vocals
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I can tell you, no capacitor will solve the problem. It might seem logical to pick the crossover as solution but that will never result in any satisfying manner. The problem is to understand not only the tweeter needs filtering but the woofer too. Without knowing which drivers are involved there's no way to actually help with the issue. Yes, some of the symptoms can be treated but that can only be rudimentary unless there's more information.
I just need to know which capacitor to swap out these with to eliminate vocals
No. Your woofers disperse much more of the vocals than the tweeters. Tell EXACTLY what the drivers are and the dimensions of the speakers or it will only result in random changes.
Hi Franxxaudio,
Please read my post and think about it. A single capacitor will not roll off the midrange frequencies quickly enough. It's a fact, I used to design loudspeaker systems commercially.
You need to educate yourself at least a little. Using 16 speakers with two different sizes for a single frequency range is not going to work well, sorry. A 10" speaker does not do mids well. 8" drivers have been used for high power mids in disco clubs (remember those) before, but that isn't a "HiFi" system.
So you haven't told us what the tweeter impedance is at the crossover frequency, it's frequency range or resonance or even it's real power rating. You need to know these things. Then you have to be realistic. Those probably will not cross low enough when using 8" mids anyway.
Please read my post and think about it. A single capacitor will not roll off the midrange frequencies quickly enough. It's a fact, I used to design loudspeaker systems commercially.
You need to educate yourself at least a little. Using 16 speakers with two different sizes for a single frequency range is not going to work well, sorry. A 10" speaker does not do mids well. 8" drivers have been used for high power mids in disco clubs (remember those) before, but that isn't a "HiFi" system.
So you haven't told us what the tweeter impedance is at the crossover frequency, it's frequency range or resonance or even it's real power rating. You need to know these things. Then you have to be realistic. Those probably will not cross low enough when using 8" mids anyway.
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