good afternoon,
I'd like to build a new amp for my subwoofer (Mivoc AW 3000, 12", 4 Ohm > datasheet in 50l sealed). The linked speaker will be replaced by an other 12" ( maybe a Dayton RSS315HF-4 > datasheet ) with better specs, sooner or later. Atm the Mivoc is driven by 2x TDA7293 @ +/- 33V in parallel configuration. This combination isn't really bad at all, I like it, but you know, it has always to be more ( & more & more ... 😉 ).
A new 500VA toroid will be ordered, but the voltage depends on what amp I choose.
First I've been thinking about a triple parallel TDA7293. A class D ( TDA8954, TPA3255, IRS2092? ) couldn't be bad either, but which one would be best for delivering current (buckets of it). Or how about a solid state Mosfet-Amp with IRFP240/ IRFP9140?
A woofer with a double 4 Ohm voice coil like the Dayton RSS315HO-44 ( datasheet ) driven in BTL with two amps seems also interesting to me.
So, what would you do?
best regards
Jochen
I'd like to build a new amp for my subwoofer (Mivoc AW 3000, 12", 4 Ohm > datasheet in 50l sealed). The linked speaker will be replaced by an other 12" ( maybe a Dayton RSS315HF-4 > datasheet ) with better specs, sooner or later. Atm the Mivoc is driven by 2x TDA7293 @ +/- 33V in parallel configuration. This combination isn't really bad at all, I like it, but you know, it has always to be more ( & more & more ... 😉 ).
A new 500VA toroid will be ordered, but the voltage depends on what amp I choose.
First I've been thinking about a triple parallel TDA7293. A class D ( TDA8954, TPA3255, IRS2092? ) couldn't be bad either, but which one would be best for delivering current (buckets of it). Or how about a solid state Mosfet-Amp with IRFP240/ IRFP9140?
A woofer with a double 4 Ohm voice coil like the Dayton RSS315HO-44 ( datasheet ) driven in BTL with two amps seems also interesting to me.
So, what would you do?
best regards
Jochen
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get the plate amp, it will have all the useful stuff on board, like active crossover with selectable fr, phase, l r channel summing, auto turn on/off...
I've got all the useful stuff as I am using EQ APO with rePhase-Filters. With plate amp you mean class D? I've compared data sheets, and have seen there is a huge thread about the TPA3255, so it seems to be very popular. The data sheet says it can be driven in mono PBTL-mode and it needs a relatively uncomplicated power supply (but needs an extra 12V line for internal regulators & gate-drive).
This looks interesting.
This looks interesting.
Plate amp can be any class, although i never seen classA plate amp. Historically they were classAB till classD matured enough.
Plate amp simply denotes its meant to be mounted on the side of the subwoofer, alhough i placed many plate amps in separate vertical box with handle on top.
Plate amp simply denotes its meant to be mounted on the side of the subwoofer, alhough i placed many plate amps in separate vertical box with handle on top.
You can get classD amp like this, just place it in the box.
https://www.parts-express.com/Sure-AA-AB31241-1x600W-TAS5630-Class-D-Amplifier-Board-320-311
https://www.parts-express.com/Sure-AA-AB31241-1x600W-TAS5630-Class-D-Amplifier-Board-320-311
This looks interesting. I've never read about the TAS5630, as class D did not really wake my interest yet, but Ithink I'll give it a chance. I've got plenty of room under the subwoofer, as I took two old bookshelf-speaker cases and put the toroid in one and the amp in the other.
Thank you for this advice! (gonna read about the TAS5630 now. this looks really good 🙂 )
Thank you for this advice! (gonna read about the TAS5630 now. this looks really good 🙂 )
Just ordered this TAS5630 >
It requires besides the main power supply an additional 12V GVDD. Where should I take the 12V from? Could I take it from my (high quality FSP Aurum) PC PSU, or may I use a second small transformer with a LM317 + D-Noizator?
I just read, that a users class-D amp died, as the 12V line failed. May I use a 12V relais to switch the main power on, so it switches off, when the 12V line isn't on?
It requires besides the main power supply an additional 12V GVDD. Where should I take the 12V from? Could I take it from my (high quality FSP Aurum) PC PSU, or may I use a second small transformer with a LM317 + D-Noizator?
I just read, that a users class-D amp died, as the 12V line failed. May I use a 12V relais to switch the main power on, so it switches off, when the 12V line isn't on?
I'd take a look in local music stores and pawn shops and ad sites in case there's a good deal on a used pro (or semi-pro) power amp. Transformers and heat sinks and filter caps and transistors add up. You might even find a fixable broken amp (like I did with an NAD 2200), or basket case that can be a donor.
On the other hand, being older and wiser, I might use whatever stereo amp or receiver I have lying around. I've discovered that when subwoofer levels are set properly with a test signal and SPL meter, I can replace the Peavey PV8.5C with a fanless 40 wpc stereo amp and still have bass that tickles my leg hair.
On the other hand, being older and wiser, I might use whatever stereo amp or receiver I have lying around. I've discovered that when subwoofer levels are set properly with a test signal and SPL meter, I can replace the Peavey PV8.5C with a fanless 40 wpc stereo amp and still have bass that tickles my leg hair.
It's working. I didn't have a transformer which was able to deliver 50V DC with enough current. The one for my old SW-Amp has 23-0-23V which is +/- 33VDC, which makes 66VDC asymmetric. To reduce the voltage I put it first as +/- 33V through a cap-multiplier which I had lying around for my satellites. At the output it was +/- 28.5V. This I took as 57V and led it through another mono cap-multiplier with 63+ V caps which I built for the sub. Final result: 51.xV.
1st pic is the old dual TDA7293, 2nd the TAS5630
1st pic is the old dual TDA7293, 2nd the TAS5630
