Where to go?

[star882]

Hi star882,
Just how far apart are your components?

Okay, then use RS-232. If you can live with lower data rates, use a current loop. The fact that SPI and I2C is normally used inside a chassis doesn't preclude it's use outside. As for RS-485, that's what I'm running my test gear on. I'm more than just a little familiar with it. I would not run it very far though.

Best, Chris

Maybe use something like CAN bus. RS-232 is only two ended so it will not be practical for any large setup (too many ports needed). RS-485 (in its most basic form) is essentially RS-232 but on a half duplex differential pair.

SPI would need more wires than other buses so it is not as practical. I2C could be used (and HDMI and related connections use it for control), but how would you ensure that powered off nodes do not load down the network? And it is nowhere as suitable for use outside equipment as buses that are designed for it. (CAN bus is originally designed for automotive use and is very fault tolerant. It is also used in certain digital HVAC controls.)

I suppose you could use Ethernet for both control and data on digital sources. But it is very complex to implement.

 

[MJL21193]

Hi star882,
Just how far apart are your components?

(Bad Geek)

Cheers!

I had the same thought, but I didn't want to make Chris blush.

Here now fellas, don't be hittin' on my girl now...😀

 

[SY]

Nope, just tweakin' Chris. Star does not wear orange.

 

[Saturnus]

Whatever kind they can't see, and doesn't impact their shoe/clothing/gifts budget.

Correct. And therefore the answer is neither of the choices since only a class-D design will do that (not to mention sound better than any of the other antiquated design technologies).

 

[rok-n-rol]

I'm confused, Iggy Pop had favorable results modulating a large lighted tube on top of his speaker cab yet his large amp was in discreet secondary position. Should I be thinking large discretes or maybe it is all about the speakers motorvating vibrating mass.

 

[Juergen Knoop]

thank you people! 🙂
I have made up my mind on topolgy and look of my next amp. 😎
Hm, how do I close this poll? Can't see any controls?
Regards

 

[SY]

Can't see any controls?

That's true of most women.

 

[Andrea:]

I bet girls love this poll 😉

 

[Juergen Knoop]

ok, then don't close the poll! 😀

 

[anatech]

Hi Stuart,

I had the same thought, but I didn't want to make Chris blush.

😱
Me blush?


Hi star882,

Maybe use something like CAN bus.

Good choice.

SPI would need more wires than other buses so it is not as practical.

Not so fast! The number of wires isn't really a problem unless it gets out of hand. Use a connector that computers use, then just use the cables already designed and terminated. You could use any standard signaling protocol. RJ-45s or USB connectons would also work, but they might not be as robust. However, they are set up for differential signals. Another good choice with mechanical trade-offs that probably aren't that serious. It's not like this hardware is difficult to source.

All SPI, CAN or I2C signaling is already done for you if using micro-controllers. The PIC series micro-controllers are popular in home audio, coding is already done, so all you have to do is hand off your data to the port designated for I/O. Many of these protocols will handle serial memory IC's on the bus in case you need to expand. Then there are the micro-controllers themselves that include good sized memory. It should be easy to set the other components so that the main unit will auto recognize the device and also do some automatic switching for you. One power button for the system now, no matter how finely split up your system is.

How about using RFID? No wires for control purposes. All the subsections already exist, you just need to assemble the blocks and adjust your programming to fine tune. Even Ethernet has application specific devices that you can implement by reading app notes. The one big problem with Ethernet is that the bandwidth is much higher than you really need. How much latency is acceptable in your control loop? 100 ~ 200 mS?

You can prevent a single device failure from taking down your machine network by using transformer coupling on the line. Use high frequencies. The other option would be to simply use star wiring, the master being your control amplifier (preamp in today's lingo).

There are so many choices here that will all work. I'd lean towards the CAN bus, or even SPI. Almost any will work well. The differential signaling would be the most tolerant of noise. Anything designed for use in a car would have zero problem running between system chassis' either.

-Chris

 

[Geek]

Originally Posted by Juergen Knoop
Can't see any controls?

That's true of most women.

Yeah, that way you can't see if you're tweaking the wrong ones until it's too late 😱 🙁

 

[gfiandy]

I have a great idea. Instead of using wires why don't you use light, you could say use infrared instead of visible and modulate it at say arround 37KHz. Then you could transfer your control commands using this from a small hand held controller. - Or has that already been done!

This way should you ever get the said women into your house and on the sofa with you, you won't have to get up to change the controls or trip over the wires.

Worked for me.

Now, I was thinking about getting rid of the my fairly large floor standing speakers to make a bit more room in my very small living room, however I was over ruled "Small speakers won't sound as good, can't we keep the big ones" well who am I to argue! No discussion about the amplifer, so long as it comes on from the remote control and works straight away.

 

[Coreyk78]

Of course it does. A 289 4-barrel.

I'd prefer a 5.0L EFI, maybe a generational thing 😛 of course I was born at the height of disco and smog-era carbureted cars in 1978. Dark days indeed...

 

[Pano]

With snap-on plastic side panels in various colours, so she can match it to her outfit.

Gosh - you've been looking at my amps! 😉
Virtue Audio. We make audio lovers audiophiles. Better sound by design.

 

[star882]

I have a great idea. Instead of using wires why don't you use light, you could say use infrared instead of visible and modulate it at say arround 37KHz. Then you could transfer your control commands using this from a small hand held controller. - Or has that already been done!

Works fine unless you want to control them from a different room. Use RF for that. Doesn't work too well for automation either. 2 way RF (e.g. ZigBee or Bluetooth) will do that, but at a higher per unit cost than a wired bus.

Before you ask, you can in fact mix IRDA, RF, and wired.

 

[kevinkr]

Honestly, I haven't found hifi gear to be the way to any lady's heart. More like the endearing quirk that the lady who really loves you will endure without much complaint.. 😛
I did vote for tubes, because in most cases it gets their notice, if not their approval as in: "Is that thing safe or is it going to burn our house down?" 😉

 

[jlsem]

My wife uses my DIY audio hobby to punish me or praise me, as she sees fit.

John

 

[kipman725]

obvious solution is some sort of power line networking! no extra wires at all.

 

[Juergen Knoop]

wires are good, women are bad...wires are good,...

 

[anatech]

Hi kipman,

obvious solution is some sort of power line networking! no extra wires at all.

Now you're into power isolation issues, plus possible damage from nasty line borne spikes.

Na, a simple buss shouldn't be a problem, and you could easily work in a timer / controller plus an IR or RF repeater. Adding those things simply allow you to leverage the investment. Heck, you could even have the controller "talk" to other controllers in the house to create an automated solution. All with simple building blocks.

IR receivers can be had from any discarded DVD or CD players lying around in the scrap. Free. You only need to figure out the frequency, but you may even score the remote as well. Now you have a system that depends on your uP to decipher.

-Chris