When do you need a big capacitor on your power?

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Re: Imo

ppia600 said:
I'd rather take the extra $ for a cap and put it towards more wire strands to feed my amps. I'm sure its nice to have a small storage device for short impacts, but the cap doesn't sustain any extra energy for a reasonable amount of time. They are designed mainly for keeping dc voltage smooth... to prevent ripple. They aren't going to give any extra energy that isn't already coming through the wire. Do you really need that extra .25 seconds of slightly higher voltage? (<just for example.. of course every amp/wire/capacitor combonation would vary)


Exactly......
 
Re: Imo

ppia600 said:
I'd rather take the extra $ for a cap and put it towards more wire strands to feed my amps. I'm sure its nice to have a small storage device for short impacts, but the cap doesn't sustain any extra energy for a reasonable amount of time. They are designed mainly for keeping dc voltage smooth... to prevent ripple. They aren't going to give any extra energy that isn't already coming through the wire. Do you really need that extra .25 seconds of slightly higher voltage? (<just for example.. of course every amp/wire/capacitor combonation would vary)

I think that there is messed two things.
Big reservoir cap is good for keeping battery voltage steady at amp input, not for giving short extra boost for power.

In every long cable (if thickness is reasonable) there is amount of inductance that will have effect on amp input voltage when amp power is in operation (in moment when spms fet is conducting, and taking current from lines). This situation varies naturally with implementation of amp power supply (hence internal capacitance).

And also car battery is slower on current peaks, that good lowESR/ESL capacitor.

Naturally to have any good effect for amp, the cap must be extreme close to amp, or benefit is lost on cable inductance.

But I think that this is easily measured; take oscilloscope and measure ripple on amp input. If you can find several volts of ripple, then cap is needed for sure. :bawling:
 
/\ If you're going to measure ripple at the amp's input, that wouldn't be an accurate indication. You would actually need to take the cover off the amp and measure ripple AFTER the amp's intput filter section, which consists of cap(s) and inductor(s). ;) I can't think of one amp that doesn't already have these, but maybe there is. I'd like to see it to believe it though.
 
ppia600 said:
/\ If you're going to measure ripple at the amp's input, that wouldn't be an accurate indication. You would actually need to take the cover off the amp and measure ripple AFTER the amp's intput filter section, which consists of cap(s) and inductor(s). ;) I can't think of one amp that doesn't already have these, but maybe there is. I'd like to see it to believe it though.


I would say it is a good indicator wheter you need extra big cap or not.
If after amp filtering/smoothing there is no substantial ripple(at the input connectors), extra cap has no effect, BUT if the ripple is big, the extra cap has big effect.
 
zigzagflux said:
The correct approach is to build a real amplifier; one that has adequate internal capacity to drive the load.

Not everybody can just go outm and build their own amplifier :xeye: I'm not that technically electronic savvy. I saw my lights kind of doing the dimming thing with the bass this morning. It was the first time I had really seen it. It was when I was going through the ramp onto the interstate...When I wasn't gassing it and just coasting at the low speed, I saw it dim with the bass...but when I pressed on the gas and it got up to speed it didn't dim..Even in Cruise Control. So, I'm wondering if a cap would help my car?

It's weird...My amp only has a 20amp fuse and is only running 180watts bridged and it's doing this...I'm confused on how it could be drawing so much power? I did have the heat and rear defroster on but it's not like I'm running a 600watt amp or something.
 
Flyin11 said:


What's HID?

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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Nice car ppi!! :D Sweet lookin ride and I'm diggin the nice looking headlights.

I noticed this morning that the dimming that happens with me now is not related to bass. If I have the volume up the lights don't dim with the bass but they do dim down when I turn on the rear defroster, Heat, or A/C when going down the road and they also flicker every time the engine fan comes on. Is this normal? My car is a 2003 Honda Civic EX Coupe that I just bought about 2 months ago. I have noticed that the battery under the hood looks like it has never been changed so I'm figuring it's been a few years that it has been in the car. It starts up fine in the afternoon but doesn't turn over quite as quickly in the mornings. My question is, is it a good idea to try and good a REALLY good battery and replace this one (Have to do it anyways) or get a capacitor for my amp so that the flickering and dimming might stop (even though it doesn't really do it when the bass is hitting)? Thanks :D
 
I would change the battery regardless and make sure the terminals are super clean. I'm sure the alternator in that car probably doesn't produce more than 60 or 75 amps so a higher output one might help. I would change the battery and if the dimming is still bad, check your auto parts stores for an alternator from a honda that has higher current, like a prelude or newer accord for example. Try to find one you can just bolt on. There is also a seller on ebay called Iraggi who makes brand new high current alternators. They make one for mine that puts out 200 amps but its $299. :eek:My car came stock with only 75 amps, I got one at the auto parts store for a newer legacy and now I have a 90 that rated at almost 100 amps. My car still dims on the dashboard some, but I'm running a crapload of power.
 
I'll talk to my brother and see if I had to buy a better alternator if he could put it on over his house. I don't want my dad jumping down my throat even though I'm old enough to make my own decisions and my brother works at a Firestone so he knows a lot about cars. We'll see though...My new audio stuff should be coming next week and then I will get things going and know where I'm at price wise for a new battery. I won't be able to afford a Optima or anything but maybe a very good battery in my range. Thanks :D
 
Any auto parts store that sells batteries will take your old battery. They sell them to the recyclers. It is free money for them, and doing the right thing for the planet.

And to answer the original question in this post. Whenever you feel like lighting some money on fire and watching it burn, but want to have something to show for it. That is when you need a big capacitor on your power. Just like you burnt the money, but you do have a pretty thing to show to your friends.
 
ppia600 said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STIN...015QQitemZ250181638135QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Agm battery. Or you can find one at your local auto parts store that will fit. They probably won't know what you mean by "agm" but just read the boxes on the small powersports batteries.

Agm batteries are designed for small discharge over a long period and not for starting duties, they are especially suited to running a fridge in the back of your 4wd.
Don't use an agm battery.......
 
I think you need to go back and check your information again, my friend. The link I gave him was for an agm battery designed to fit in a Civic specifically. Any powersport battery that is worth a flip will be agm. The super awesome batteries made specifically for car audio that are more expensive than the optimas now are agm. Agm stands for absorptive glass mat. It is just a different type of battery that has a quicker recharge and discharge capability. I am running a very tiny one made for a jetski in my car right now. It cranks my 2.5 liter dohc engine better than the stock lead acid battery and is about three times smaller. It also hasn't been destroyed by my 2600 watt rms stereo system (yet).
Go look on ebay for car audio batteries and the best ones will be agm.
 
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