I am wondering what is a "normal" working temperature for a tube.
My KT88 in Single Ended reach 103 degC in 8 minutes, and maximum 125 degC in 20 minutes. (I wonder if 125 degC is the end of scale of the meter, since the 5U4G also rise to the same 125 degC
)
I put the sensor at the top of the valve and then cover with metal paper.
It is really hot, but since I can not compare I don't know if its normal or not.
What is the temperature of your amp?
Cheers,
Manuel
My KT88 in Single Ended reach 103 degC in 8 minutes, and maximum 125 degC in 20 minutes. (I wonder if 125 degC is the end of scale of the meter, since the 5U4G also rise to the same 125 degC
)I put the sensor at the top of the valve and then cover with metal paper.
It is really hot, but since I can not compare I don't know if its normal or not.
What is the temperature of your amp?
Cheers,
Manuel
I do recall that my kt88s get hot enough that you'll get a burn by touching them. The easily help heat the room.
I'm not sure of the exact temperature, but it's possible that 100°C+ is the right temperature.
Let's see what someone else has to say.
I'm not sure of the exact temperature, but it's possible that 100°C+ is the right temperature.
Let's see what someone else has to say.
I forgot to mention 🙄 :
This 125 degC in 20 minutes are measured in a room at 26 degC and no signal at the amp.
This 125 degC in 20 minutes are measured in a room at 26 degC and no signal at the amp.
Hi,
That's cool....when you live in Alaska.😀
Don't worry so much, it's pretty normal.
Your amp is class A so when running a signal as you put it it win't change much anyway.
Cheers,😉
That's cool....when you live in Alaska.😀
Don't worry so much, it's pretty normal.
Your amp is class A so when running a signal as you put it it win't change much anyway.
Cheers,😉
By the way, is it possible to tell by thermal difference between used tubes and new?
which is probably silly because of unlimited differences in make model and manufacture date. can this method detect premature failure? if you say, set pre-defined limits based upon an average temperature for specific tube models? or will other methods more accurately predict failure?
which is probably silly because of unlimited differences in make model and manufacture date. can this method detect premature failure? if you say, set pre-defined limits based upon an average temperature for specific tube models? or will other methods more accurately predict failure?
Hi,
There won't be any difference in bulb temperature so, no.
It's almost impossible to predict failure from a tube.
What you can measure is emission which is an indiator of cathode health.
Cheers,😉
There won't be any difference in bulb temperature so, no.
It's almost impossible to predict failure from a tube.
What you can measure is emission which is an indiator of cathode health.
Cheers,😉
Most tubes are rated for a minimum of 180°C at the lowest, 200 for common power tubes and up to 250°C for some sweep tubes. Any more requires special glass, like my Bendix 6384 which is rated for full life (and it's long) at 300°C!
Tim
Tim
Yeah I have 5894 transmitter tubes and they are made with a special quartz glass for heat.
Many high power tubes get unbelievably hot. Just look at a magnetron. A power magnetron usually has a heatsink and a forced airflow to help remove great amounts of heat.
Many high power tubes get unbelievably hot. Just look at a magnetron. A power magnetron usually has a heatsink and a forced airflow to help remove great amounts of heat.
Although it isn't designed to go more than...130°C? They have thermal cutouts in the ovens.
I know my 4CX250R's are basically 4X150s (which I have a few as well) with ceramic rather than glass seals, and as such handle higher temps, allowing greater dissipation. They're basically identical on the outside, aside from the white stuff between the metal bits and a better-constructed radiator.
Tim
I know my 4CX250R's are basically 4X150s (which I have a few as well) with ceramic rather than glass seals, and as such handle higher temps, allowing greater dissipation. They're basically identical on the outside, aside from the white stuff between the metal bits and a better-constructed radiator.
Tim
Right on.
The temp for KT88s and 4cx250bs are 250 degrees C.
For those unfamiliar with the 7034/4x150A, the max temp is 175 degrees C at the base and grid 2 seals and 200 at the plate seal, and 250 at base end of the plate, and junction of the fins.
Take care guys.
Steve
The temp for KT88s and 4cx250bs are 250 degrees C.
For those unfamiliar with the 7034/4x150A, the max temp is 175 degrees C at the base and grid 2 seals and 200 at the plate seal, and 250 at base end of the plate, and junction of the fins.
Take care guys.
Steve
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