Hi all, current fuel prices being so high, I've decided to go on a diet. I've taken the sub outta my car, what can I do, to get a good sound when my full rangers are just dual cones on a plastic baffle, either in doors or behind other interior panels?
Suggestions, please. No fiberglass subs please.
Mike🙂
Suggestions, please. No fiberglass subs please.
Mike🙂
Is the sub that heavy (weight) that you had to take it out? I dont think that a regular sized sub box would have much effect on the weight of your car therby affecting your gas mileage.
Its not the sub
all though it is heavy. I have a petrol/gasoline Nissan Serena
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Serena
It does 20mpg, and every little helps.
What do you think?
Mike🙂
all though it is heavy. I have a petrol/gasoline Nissan Serena
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Serena
It does 20mpg, and every little helps.
What do you think?
Mike🙂
Hi Mike, I don't think taking the sub out will help with economy. You would be a lot better off changing your driving technique.
If you want to take the sub out for space reasons that's fine though. To get better sound from door speakers etc you need to thoroughly seal and deaden the doors and speaker and mounting. But to get sub like bass is going to need better drivers and amps.
Drop me a line about the amp, I presume you haven't sent it yet.
If you want to take the sub out for space reasons that's fine though. To get better sound from door speakers etc you need to thoroughly seal and deaden the doors and speaker and mounting. But to get sub like bass is going to need better drivers and amps.
Drop me a line about the amp, I presume you haven't sent it yet.
Charming🙂
I've never been so careful. I drive like a granny on a Sunday. Bang on 30 in a 30 zone in fifth gear
I'll put the sub back then😀
I've never been so careful. I drive like a granny on a Sunday. Bang on 30 in a 30 zone in fifth gear
I'll put the sub back then😀
Thats pretty bad mileage, I would expect 20 mpg for a 4L V8, but not a 2.0/2.5L. I'm sure you are suppose to get more than that. Unless you have the SR20DET engine.
You should get a tune up, I find that always improves mileage.
You should get a tune up, I find that always improves mileage.
High gear does not mean high economy. 5th is too high for 30MPH, you have poor responsiveness from the vehicle right when you want it in urban zones. Then when you need to accelerate at all you have to either depress the accelerator more than if you were in the correct gear, or drop down a gear and create extra effort and wear.
See if you can get an observed drive with your local Institute of Advanced Motorists (IAM) they will be able to help you and it's free.
See if you can get an observed drive with your local Institute of Advanced Motorists (IAM) they will be able to help you and it's free.
Luckily I don't have a issue with gas mileage....I go 73/74 mph in a 65mph zone. Just zooming in the fast lane on cruise control and I get 35-38mpg and can go 280-300 miles on a tank of gas 😀 😀 I have a 2003 Honda Civic, automatic transmission...Those cars get good gas mileage anyways but man, I could not deal with 20mpg...No way!!!
The thing that ticks me off now though is when people sit there in the fast lane and try to go slower than the speed limit. If you are going to try and go slower to save gas and all, that's fine, but DO IT IN THE SLOW LANE!!! Don't hold up everyone else. That's a good recipe for road rage. I know, because all I want to do is pull the person over and beat the heck out of them!!
The thing that ticks me off now though is when people sit there in the fast lane and try to go slower than the speed limit. If you are going to try and go slower to save gas and all, that's fine, but DO IT IN THE SLOW LANE!!! Don't hold up everyone else. That's a good recipe for road rage. I know, because all I want to do is pull the person over and beat the heck out of them!!
richie00boy:
This is a great point, and well worth further discussion for any others who find a sub impractical.
This is a great point, and well worth further discussion for any others who find a sub impractical.
SR20DET engine
Ah , don't believe it! Howd you guess. I saw the vehicle, with six seats and bought it. Stoopid I know, but it was the summer hols and my 4 kids needed to get out. Now I'll go sit in the corner and have a word with myself.
Cheers for the suggestion Rich, will look into the Institute of Advanced Motorists. I passed with BSM, they didn't teach me to drive in fog, snow or floods, let alone saving fuel.
Mike🙂
Ah , don't believe it! Howd you guess. I saw the vehicle, with six seats and bought it. Stoopid I know, but it was the summer hols and my 4 kids needed to get out. Now I'll go sit in the corner and have a word with myself.
Cheers for the suggestion Rich, will look into the Institute of Advanced Motorists. I passed with BSM, they didn't teach me to drive in fog, snow or floods, let alone saving fuel.
Mike🙂
I got pretty good bass with just two JBL 6.5" 2-ways, each in a separate sealed stuffed box. Enough to make the rear-view mirror shake, anyway. Or, instead of a wooden (or wood byproduct) box sub, build a tubular one using Sonotube or some equivalent. Same if not better stiffness, much lower weight.
If your car has the newfangled fuel injection with an OBD interface, you can get a plug-in display that should tell you real-time information like fuel economy. That's got to help with driving technique.
More tire pressure will reduce rolling friction. Remove any seats you don't use to reduce weight.
If your car has the newfangled fuel injection with an OBD interface, you can get a plug-in display that should tell you real-time information like fuel economy. That's got to help with driving technique.
More tire pressure will reduce rolling friction. Remove any seats you don't use to reduce weight.
I'd also recommend a sonotube (use a concrete pier form, the cardboard tube) sub. If not and on the cheap, I'd go with large full range, say 6x9 as here in the US anyway they are plentiful and can make some bass. I'd buy used on epay to get a better brand, try to get less tweeter junk in them that cover the woofer. Stick a modest amp on them say 30rms each if a good brand amp old school amp. Mounting does make a difference, put a wood baffle in the door if possible and get some butyl peel and stick from the hardware store if you can't do audio deadening. Two pair of good 6x9 can make some bass, not quite like a sub but stout and tight.
Keep rpm down long as it can pull the load, and drive like you have an egg between your foot and the pedal you are not going to beak....that will help mpg. Also don't use the brakes much, that will teach you to coast a lot more before stops and corners. Tune up, air up tires, all good suggestions.
Keep rpm down long as it can pull the load, and drive like you have an egg between your foot and the pedal you are not going to beak....that will help mpg. Also don't use the brakes much, that will teach you to coast a lot more before stops and corners. Tune up, air up tires, all good suggestions.
The best way to improve fuel economy on that thing is to go on ebay and snipe a 250 quid 1 litre car like an uno, a nova or an ax then keep that thing for family days out, as far as saving weight goes you would be better off throwing away the spare tyre! thats what the AA are for, they will tow you home and hence save you even more petrol.
Thanks
Hi all, revs are always low as possible, tires are well inflated, already took the spare wheel out, a 1litre motor would mean more Tax, Mot and insurance. I think the sonotube idea is a good one. I have some SPLX 6 by 9s, the mid and tweeter housing is unboltable.
Its a shame you can't get 6 by 9 Sonotube😀
Mike🙂
Hi all, revs are always low as possible, tires are well inflated, already took the spare wheel out, a 1litre motor would mean more Tax, Mot and insurance. I think the sonotube idea is a good one. I have some SPLX 6 by 9s, the mid and tweeter housing is unboltable.
Its a shame you can't get 6 by 9 Sonotube😀
Mike🙂
It's not the revs though, it's where your foot is! Driving in a more appropriate gear means you need to press the accelerator less, thus saving you fuel 🙂
You can deaden and seal the doors by removing the door card and covering over the entire metal of the door with bitumen based flashing tape. The downside to this though is you block off any access to the lock and window motor etc should you ever have a problem with those.
Also strategically place the tape on the outer door skin.
You can deaden and seal the doors by removing the door card and covering over the entire metal of the door with bitumen based flashing tape. The downside to this though is you block off any access to the lock and window motor etc should you ever have a problem with those.
Also strategically place the tape on the outer door skin.
better bass from mids& removal of sub
First of all if u need better gas milage, add a cold air intake & exhaust. I've got a 96 accord with a TC Sounds TC9+ (60 lbs WITHOUT the 4cuft enclosure) I added the intake & exhaust to get slightly better milage than factory before adding 130 lbs of sub woofer!!!
The best bass I have ever heard from mids would surely be the Orion HCCA mid bass drivers. These mids are kinda oldschool from around 2000, and use a neodymium motor which is almost as powerful as the HCCA subs that use a 36lbs strontium motor, these mids also reach a whopping 1 inch excursion that is down right absurd for a 5.25" or 6.5"!!!
If anyone would like a set of these mids shoot over an email
First of all if u need better gas milage, add a cold air intake & exhaust. I've got a 96 accord with a TC Sounds TC9+ (60 lbs WITHOUT the 4cuft enclosure) I added the intake & exhaust to get slightly better milage than factory before adding 130 lbs of sub woofer!!!
The best bass I have ever heard from mids would surely be the Orion HCCA mid bass drivers. These mids are kinda oldschool from around 2000, and use a neodymium motor which is almost as powerful as the HCCA subs that use a 36lbs strontium motor, these mids also reach a whopping 1 inch excursion that is down right absurd for a 5.25" or 6.5"!!!
If anyone would like a set of these mids shoot over an email
You could sonotube any driver. You make the end caps out of wood just cut them to fit whatever driver.
In my experience rpm takes fuel. High rpm means friction and pumping losses you can't get away from excepting use of a smaller engine, and the injectors emit fuel each revolution of the engine. Obviously you need to stay in the lower part of the powerband so it can produce enough power to get the car moving and run properly.
In my experience rpm takes fuel. High rpm means friction and pumping losses you can't get away from excepting use of a smaller engine, and the injectors emit fuel each revolution of the engine. Obviously you need to stay in the lower part of the powerband so it can produce enough power to get the car moving and run properly.
you can check the user manual for the car. I have seen in some cases were they suggest a recommend speed/rpm for optimum mpg.
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