I was checking out the TAS5630 amplifier boards on eBay and AliExpress and I can't make sense of pricing.
- TAS5630 boards in 2.1 configuration (2x150W + 300W subwoofer output) with preamp and volume/tone control appear to be the cheapest. Selling for as low as $36 with free shipping.
- TAS5630 boards in subwoofer configuration (600W PBTL) for as low as $39 with free shipping. Though there are some rumors that TI actually do not recommend using the chip in this mode and reduced the spec for PBTL to 400W in TAS5630B. Also, even looking at the old data sheet, it doesn't make much sense to use this mode unless you have a 2-ohm or 3-ohm subwoofer as PBTL output into 4-ohm speaker in PBTL mode is 230W at 1% THD vs 240W at 1% THD for a single channel in BTL mode.
- TAS5630 borads in stereo BTL configuration (2x300W) for as low as $49 but as high as $99
Why is the stereo configuration of TAS5630 boards more expensive than the other configurations? This configuration appears to have the lowest number of components. The 2.1 board has four pots, a couple of opamps and a larger PCB but still $12 cheaper than than the 2.0 board?
- TAS5630 boards in 2.1 configuration (2x150W + 300W subwoofer output) with preamp and volume/tone control appear to be the cheapest. Selling for as low as $36 with free shipping.
- TAS5630 boards in subwoofer configuration (600W PBTL) for as low as $39 with free shipping. Though there are some rumors that TI actually do not recommend using the chip in this mode and reduced the spec for PBTL to 400W in TAS5630B. Also, even looking at the old data sheet, it doesn't make much sense to use this mode unless you have a 2-ohm or 3-ohm subwoofer as PBTL output into 4-ohm speaker in PBTL mode is 230W at 1% THD vs 240W at 1% THD for a single channel in BTL mode.
- TAS5630 borads in stereo BTL configuration (2x300W) for as low as $49 but as high as $99
Why is the stereo configuration of TAS5630 boards more expensive than the other configurations? This configuration appears to have the lowest number of components. The 2.1 board has four pots, a couple of opamps and a larger PCB but still $12 cheaper than than the 2.0 board?
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I'm interested in the answers to the above, and about amp boards that use the TAS5630 in general. It seems like one of the better compact class-D implementations these days (currently in production) and has a bit more power than the usual 50-100W at 1%-10% distortion class offerings.
I'd also like to know (I hope this isn't considered threadjacking) which TAS5630 board is more reliable (in any channel configuration). I recall reading some posts about certain boards that were using the wrong regulators or had some other inherent faults. I'd like to be steered towards the right buying decision by others' experiences. Thanks in advance on that.
I'd also like to know (I hope this isn't considered threadjacking) which TAS5630 board is more reliable (in any channel configuration). I recall reading some posts about certain boards that were using the wrong regulators or had some other inherent faults. I'd like to be steered towards the right buying decision by others' experiences. Thanks in advance on that.
I'd be somewhat wary of expecting that the pricing here is based purely on parts cost (also because you do not know the actual BoM cost of one of these boards). One seller could be getting boards directly from the factory and another through intermediaries etc.
Also, just because the board is identical (TI reference design) you do not know that all the boards are populated with the same components and that might influence the cost as well.
As an example of this I've received some kits with branded components like RN55 resistors where the nominal value in the schematic was e.g. 1k5 and the actual value delivered was e.g. 1k53. This indicates to me that the kit maker is probably buying overstock/surplus components, factory leftovers etc. and then using the closest available value to keep costs down. That could be the case here as well and there's really no way to be sure until you actually get a board and test it 🙂
/U.
PS: To the comment on regulators, yes some of these had a switching regulator (the TO-263-5 component in the corner of the board) that was the regular LM25xx type and not the LM25xx-HV type that can actually take the applied voltage. If you buy a board you may want to check this before powering it up 🙂
Also, just because the board is identical (TI reference design) you do not know that all the boards are populated with the same components and that might influence the cost as well.
As an example of this I've received some kits with branded components like RN55 resistors where the nominal value in the schematic was e.g. 1k5 and the actual value delivered was e.g. 1k53. This indicates to me that the kit maker is probably buying overstock/surplus components, factory leftovers etc. and then using the closest available value to keep costs down. That could be the case here as well and there's really no way to be sure until you actually get a board and test it 🙂
/U.
PS: To the comment on regulators, yes some of these had a switching regulator (the TO-263-5 component in the corner of the board) that was the regular LM25xx type and not the LM25xx-HV type that can actually take the applied voltage. If you buy a board you may want to check this before powering it up 🙂
Both my 2ch and subwoofer type boards had the wrong regulator. Easily swapped but cost a few dollars. Also mods required to heatsinks as they don't fit well.
Power up and down is also poorly designed and another few pence worth of components are required to fix the pops and crackles.
Very capable, low noise and powerful amps though.
Commodity / third world labour / garage shop = pricing structure
Power up and down is also poorly designed and another few pence worth of components are required to fix the pops and crackles.
Very capable, low noise and powerful amps though.
Commodity / third world labour / garage shop = pricing structure
PS reliability. The PCBs are put together well and once bits mentioned above are sorted, don't see any reason for failures. Mine are living naked on the sub with a 48V SMPS that cost peanuts. I must box them up. I suppose power caps aren't the greatest and could be swapped. Mine are in 15c ambient though. Not worried!
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