So my friend has a Yamaha C-80 that had a scratchy pot we were replacing. When I looked inside, I saw all sorts of copper plates to conduct current which were installed in a through-hole fashion. Net result looked really clean and probably able to handle some serious power.
I found a thread on another site that shows what I am talking about:
Yamaha Control Amplifier C-80: Sick! (pics)
I'm thinking about using this construction technique for some instrument amplifiers I want to build (and maybe later some hi-fi gear after that); does anybody know if I can buy those copper pieces pre-cut like that or what the technique is called?
Thanks!
-hlzr
I found a thread on another site that shows what I am talking about:
Yamaha Control Amplifier C-80: Sick! (pics)
I'm thinking about using this construction technique for some instrument amplifiers I want to build (and maybe later some hi-fi gear after that); does anybody know if I can buy those copper pieces pre-cut like that or what the technique is called?
Thanks!
-hlzr
Hi hlzr,
That is a very good way to run power and ground. The material has a far larger cross sectional area and runs pretty much directly where you want it. You can also run other non-current carrying ground conductors to form an shield.
Yamaha did this often, as have many other manufacturers over time. I did warranty work for Yamaha, among others. This is a common sight for me.
The technique, or "part" is called a bus. No surprise there. I have never seen anything for sale since the legs will enter the PCB at random places to suit your build. All you need to do is use sheet copper and cut out the areas not going through the PCB. You can either remove the material between the notches, or fold them up if the sheet is thin enough. You can also use Al bar stock, but fasten electrical connections with a screw, ring terminal and toothed washer on a surface off the PCB. Screws can be used to fasten the bar to the PCB, but don't rely on that for electrical connections. You can also use ring terminals meant for soldering to wire. Mount the rings to the bar loosely, feed the ends of the ring terminals down through the PCB and solder them. Then you can release the bar and mount it later on, or fasten it right afterwards. Loose mounting to begin limits heat loss into the bar.
-Chris
That is a very good way to run power and ground. The material has a far larger cross sectional area and runs pretty much directly where you want it. You can also run other non-current carrying ground conductors to form an shield.
Yamaha did this often, as have many other manufacturers over time. I did warranty work for Yamaha, among others. This is a common sight for me.
The technique, or "part" is called a bus. No surprise there. I have never seen anything for sale since the legs will enter the PCB at random places to suit your build. All you need to do is use sheet copper and cut out the areas not going through the PCB. You can either remove the material between the notches, or fold them up if the sheet is thin enough. You can also use Al bar stock, but fasten electrical connections with a screw, ring terminal and toothed washer on a surface off the PCB. Screws can be used to fasten the bar to the PCB, but don't rely on that for electrical connections. You can also use ring terminals meant for soldering to wire. Mount the rings to the bar loosely, feed the ends of the ring terminals down through the PCB and solder them. Then you can release the bar and mount it later on, or fasten it right afterwards. Loose mounting to begin limits heat loss into the bar.
-Chris
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