I can't think of any good reason to 'bypass' an audio coupling cap. I can think of one good reason not to bypass a coupling cap.
Anyway, back to the main point of this thread. If you really want to replace an electrolytic coupling cap by a film cap (and in many cases there is no reason to do this) then you should always check whether you can use a significantly smaller value film cap. If so, this can help avoid the problem of having to fit in a much larger cap with all the mechanical and electrical problems that can create for you.
a few cap options.
*Now I feel like I am trippin... thinking my words through (naming conventions) for sure KZ the polarized version, I might have this wrong.. the 'green' non polarized, termed as the ES, as a part of the MUSE family. which are both equal / exceptional parts for the money, and abilities to access most values. Voiced as very neutral... A very clear / open window to the musical experience. I will use, and like the Fine Gold (FG) where the larger MUSE will not fit (most FM tuners).
I have used both MKP4 and MKP10, used a lot of these caps, as bypasses.
As examples:
I prefer the 7.5 lead spacing, in this .01 part as they can be used in a great(er) variety of ways.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...GAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF7l45uRd9dVh8aYIK%2BkcGKs=
or
I like the 10mm lead spacing for this .1 value cap, (widest use?)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF7l45uRd9dVhRzeNDaRhbdQ=
* It could be argued, that there 'are better parts' or different $$$ options... as input or interstate coupling. For me... spending 20, 30, 60 dollars for a juicy brand name, exotic axial lead film cap... (eats too far into) kills my budget across a given build. I use the WIMAs as PS bypass and filter networks (as micas have gotten so expensive)
** I spent the really big money for Teflon V-Cap interstate coupling caps on my Atma-Sphere MA1 amps when having them built. Where the budget justified the cost and result. Most of my builds set next to (is used with) the Atma gear, as the pinnacle, musical reference, performance target.
*Now I feel like I am trippin... thinking my words through (naming conventions) for sure KZ the polarized version, I might have this wrong.. the 'green' non polarized, termed as the ES, as a part of the MUSE family. which are both equal / exceptional parts for the money, and abilities to access most values. Voiced as very neutral... A very clear / open window to the musical experience. I will use, and like the Fine Gold (FG) where the larger MUSE will not fit (most FM tuners).
I have used both MKP4 and MKP10, used a lot of these caps, as bypasses.
As examples:
I prefer the 7.5 lead spacing, in this .01 part as they can be used in a great(er) variety of ways.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...GAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF7l45uRd9dVh8aYIK%2BkcGKs=
or
I like the 10mm lead spacing for this .1 value cap, (widest use?)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF7l45uRd9dVhRzeNDaRhbdQ=
* It could be argued, that there 'are better parts' or different $$$ options... as input or interstate coupling. For me... spending 20, 30, 60 dollars for a juicy brand name, exotic axial lead film cap... (eats too far into) kills my budget across a given build. I use the WIMAs as PS bypass and filter networks (as micas have gotten so expensive)
** I spent the really big money for Teflon V-Cap interstate coupling caps on my Atma-Sphere MA1 amps when having them built. Where the budget justified the cost and result. Most of my builds set next to (is used with) the Atma gear, as the pinnacle, musical reference, performance target.
True that there are so many parts in that amp that changing just one or two isn’t likely to make a huge impact. I recall that there are several electrolytic coupling caps in most Marantz.
I have had great results with the Nichicon muse, bypassed with a Wima mkp10 .22uf 600v for a reasonably priced input capacitor.
It isn’t always practical to fit that combo into many spaces. No ringing and very smooth, crisp, neutral sounding. I don’t like describing something that way, how about sounds great, costs less.
I have had great results with the Nichicon muse, bypassed with a Wima mkp10 .22uf 600v for a reasonably priced input capacitor.
It isn’t always practical to fit that combo into many spaces. No ringing and very smooth, crisp, neutral sounding. I don’t like describing something that way, how about sounds great, costs less.
Thank you all for the information. I will be ordering caps from Digikey very very soon. Will add some ksa992 to the order to replace the problematic 2sa750.
Although the 2252 may not be regarded as high end by some. I have this amp for almost 30 years and really like the vintage feel of it. Therefore, I'd to keep it going as long as I can.
Although the 2252 may not be regarded as high end by some. I have this amp for almost 30 years and really like the vintage feel of it. Therefore, I'd to keep it going as long as I can.
A friend had a similar one stolen years ago, and he still talks about it, I can understand.
I have a Pioneer sx-1080 here that I’ve had for about that long, has a substantial presence that can only come from something made when it was.
Should probably plan on making a “light bulb tester” to facilitate a safer start up after performing the work. It allows current limiting during startup, and can help save things from becoming more damaged in the event that something is wrong.
I have a Pioneer sx-1080 here that I’ve had for about that long, has a substantial presence that can only come from something made when it was.
Should probably plan on making a “light bulb tester” to facilitate a safer start up after performing the work. It allows current limiting during startup, and can help save things from becoming more damaged in the event that something is wrong.
I have settled on Nichicon Muse for signal path and Panasonic FC for power line. My order should be arriving today. It seems like the general consensus is Muse caps so I'm going to give it a go and see how I like it. I think any modern cap should be better than a cap installed back in 1976. Will post result once I get them installed.
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