I am adding a mono switch to a couple of phono stages and need some opinions. The input and output RCAs are at the back of the enclosure and the mono switch is at the front. So the output from the boards will need to run to the front of the enclosure before heading back to the rear RCAs. The returns could run a much shorter course of a few inches to the output jacks or should they be twisted with it's corresponding positive lead to and from the switch? I also could twist just the wires that go to the switch and back. That would just be the positive leads.
Attached is a rough in of what I've done so far.
Thanks in advance.
Attached is a rough in of what I've done so far.
Thanks in advance.
Signal return should always follow the same route as the signal. You may get away with simple twisting, but screened/shielded would be a better match for an unbalanced input/output.
Can you short the outputs at the boards, instead of at the RCA sockets?
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I'm too much a novice to understand how to accomplish that and would it give me switchable stereo and dual mono?
Run 2 twisted pairs from the board outputs to the switch, and then 2 twisted pairs
from the switch to the stereo output RCA jacks. Each channel's ground goes continuously
all the way (one wire), from the board output ground to the output RCA ground, twisted
with the hot wires along the way. The mono switch is a breakout point for the 2 hot wires.
I can email you a drawing tomorrow if that's still unclear.
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So the ground would parallel the hot all the way, just not broken with the switch if I understand what you are saying. I think I understand. Thanks.
I may try shielded wire as well.
Yes, with the hot and ground wires twisted tightly together. Best with say #22-#20 wire.
Of course, it would be best to mount the mono switch next to the RCA output jacks,
or to have it on your line amp (or power amp) inputs instead.
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I could put the switch closer to the RCAS if I mounted it on the top cover. Makes accessing a bit more troublesome.
You could mount the switch on a bracket from the rear panel, pointing upward.
The cover would have a matching hole that the lever goes through when
installing the cover. A nut on the outside wouldn't be necessary, but is an option.
I was laid up for a few days with pneumonia but I'm getting back to my build. Would this form of twisted pair shielded wire work well?
Or should this be used since the shielding could extend closer to the solder points?
Where does one tie all the shields to and at one end only or both of each shield?
Or should this be used since the shielding could extend closer to the solder points?
Where does one tie all the shields to and at one end only or both of each shield?
here is a great switch and is cheap, no affiliation but I use these on everything.
Personally I twist every pair of wire except for the shielded pairs and I only solder 1 end of the shield to the chassis.
Attenuators and Signal Selecters
Personally I twist every pair of wire except for the shielded pairs and I only solder 1 end of the shield to the chassis.
Attenuators and Signal Selecters
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