This is a great thread, I was wondering if people would comment on why they used that particular wire as well??
I'm building my first project and I just used 12 guage OFC stranded speaker king wire from my amps to my speakers, and from the binding posts to the actual drivers themselves.. Also, do you use the same wire in your x-over as you do running to the drivers? or from the amps to the terminals on the speaker?
Also, I used gold plated quick disconnects on the midranges and gold plated ring terminals on the tweeters.. Is this a good solution? Should I have just soldered to the actual speaker drivers?
Thanks for starting this great thread. This forum is such a great resource, I find myself reading it like 10 times a day at work
--Chris
I'm building my first project and I just used 12 guage OFC stranded speaker king wire from my amps to my speakers, and from the binding posts to the actual drivers themselves.. Also, do you use the same wire in your x-over as you do running to the drivers? or from the amps to the terminals on the speaker?
Also, I used gold plated quick disconnects on the midranges and gold plated ring terminals on the tweeters.. Is this a good solution? Should I have just soldered to the actual speaker drivers?
Thanks for starting this great thread. This forum is such a great resource, I find myself reading it like 10 times a day at work
--Chris
DIY_newbie said:This is a great thread, I was wondering if people would comment on why they used that particular wire as well??
I'm building my first project and I just used 12 guage OFC stranded speaker king wire from my amps to my speakers, and from the binding posts to the actual drivers themselves.. Also, do you use the same wire in your x-over as you do running to the drivers? or from the amps to the terminals on the speaker?
Also, I used gold plated quick disconnects on the midranges and gold plated ring terminals on the tweeters.. Is this a good solution? Should I have just soldered to the actual speaker drivers?
Thanks for starting this great thread. This forum is such a great resource, I find myself reading it like 10 times a day at work
--Chris
I use the same wire for my xover and also from amp to speaker.
I can't say for sure it makes any difference partly because I did not spend time inverstigate and my HF roll-off on my right ear is more than the left. If you have the same condition, the soundstage tends to favor only one side.
BEcause the wires are so short inside the loudspeaker really all you want is a current capable, low resistance cable. I doubt you can tell any difference between some esoteric nonsense cable and standard household wiring.
I just use a sensable priced, something around the £1 a meter area for my hook ups. Sometimes using silver plated copper if im feeling like spending a few extra pennies.
I just use a sensable priced, something around the £1 a meter area for my hook ups. Sometimes using silver plated copper if im feeling like spending a few extra pennies.
Hi Chris,
You may find quite a range of answers on this one but to look at it from a reasonable side of things, you will find things far more important inside your boxes than the wiries going to and from your XO.
I use aluminum slide on connectors and depress the retainer tab inside so the wire can slide right up to where the connector part slides over the spade. This aluminum connector holds it in place nicely while I solder the wire directly to the spade. I use aluminum so the solder joint is between the wire and the spade as solder doesn't stick to aluminum and you can be sure of a positive connection. In my eyes, a good solder joint is more important that what kind of wire you use.
But that doesn't stop other from having widely varying opinions on this. As mentioned earlier, I try and be as reasonable as possible when considering what materials to use, where and how.
Beware of snake oil, there is much to seen in this hobby.
Cal
You may find quite a range of answers on this one but to look at it from a reasonable side of things, you will find things far more important inside your boxes than the wiries going to and from your XO.
DIY_newbie said:
I use aluminum slide on connectors and depress the retainer tab inside so the wire can slide right up to where the connector part slides over the spade. This aluminum connector holds it in place nicely while I solder the wire directly to the spade. I use aluminum so the solder joint is between the wire and the spade as solder doesn't stick to aluminum and you can be sure of a positive connection. In my eyes, a good solder joint is more important that what kind of wire you use.
But that doesn't stop other from having widely varying opinions on this. As mentioned earlier, I try and be as reasonable as possible when considering what materials to use, where and how.
Beware of snake oil, there is much to seen in this hobby.
Cal
Hi,
I second the cat 5 utp as speaker wire.
8 cores of insulated 24g in each cable. You can bundle as many as you like after stripping off the outer sheath. £40 ($75) per 1000 feet is cheap. Sound nice and clear & 24 core makes good bass cable @ my length of 700mm. 8core to treble and 16 core to mid.
I have not experimented with the clever braiding suggested on some web sites.
I second the cat 5 utp as speaker wire.
8 cores of insulated 24g in each cable. You can bundle as many as you like after stripping off the outer sheath. £40 ($75) per 1000 feet is cheap. Sound nice and clear & 24 core makes good bass cable @ my length of 700mm. 8core to treble and 16 core to mid.
I have not experimented with the clever braiding suggested on some web sites.
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