I found a Conia LCD TV CL2202FHDVD at the recyclers and decided Id try to fix it Ha! It has a 12vDC external power supply and where it plugs in there is a 1 watt resistor that appears to have gone open because I cant get an ohms reading with my DMM. It has only three colors instead of four? green,black,red, or red,black,green. So is it 2million ohms or 5k ohms or something else? I don't want to put the wrong one in and maybe burn it out.
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Have you double-checked your DMM?..because it doesn't look damaged, burn't or otherwise defective. Being as the center band is offset to the left, I would read it left to right as pictured here. Does your DMM go up past 2Mohm?
Check others in your unit, it looks brown in color in the picture, compare it to others..making sure that is "black" as I see it.
______________________________________________________Rick............
Check others in your unit, it looks brown in color in the picture, compare it to others..making sure that is "black" as I see it.
______________________________________________________Rick............
I have 3 DMMs,2 digital and 1 analog,they all measure it the same (no reading)? The digital DMMs go to 200 million ohms.The middle color is definitely black,its that black even the white bits are black Ha! On the PCB board where the resistor goes it reads; TP11 + 12v F51. or the last bit maybe FS1? Fusible resistor? I hate it when $#@% manufacturers don't play by the *#%@ rules.Its 4 colors not %&@# three! LOL Maybe fusible resistors are different?
It's not much help, but that's what I was thinking.
I could be wrong, but I don't see why a 12V automotive lamp couldn't be used for a series bulb tester...
...with a jumper in place of the fuse, in order to continue with the LCD repair.
I could be wrong, but I don't see why a 12V automotive lamp couldn't be used for a series bulb tester...
...with a jumper in place of the fuse, in order to continue with the LCD repair.
A 12V bench supply with adjustable current limit.🙂
If you can look at the external supply and get a good idea of what current the TV should draw, you could place an inline fuse in the supply line (using pigtail leads soldered where the 'resistor' was).
You did search online for docs for this unit?
If you can look at the external supply and get a good idea of what current the TV should draw, you could place an inline fuse in the supply line (using pigtail leads soldered where the 'resistor' was).
You did search online for docs for this unit?
Is it sure that it was a resistor? Some inductivitis have the same look.
If it is in series with the supply even 5K seems to be pretty high.
If it is in series with the supply even 5K seems to be pretty high.
A 12V bench supply with adjustable current limit.🙂
If you can look at the external supply and get a good idea of what current the TV should draw, you could place an inline fuse in the supply line (using pigtail leads soldered where the 'resistor' was).
You did search online for docs for this unit?
Yes I searched online but there isnt a service manual according to Conia head office, eventually I was passed on to a service repairer who asked me what the problem was so I replied with the details but never heard back?
Maybe its an inrush current resistor,not in series? Because I remember now that I was getting voltage 11.9v on another board when I was doing some measurements.The external supply is rated 12volts 4.5amps. What would the value be for an inrush resistor?
That pretty much clinched it for me.On the PCB board where the resistor goes it reads; TP11 + 12v F51. or the last bit maybe FS1? Fusible resistor?
That pretty much clinched it for me.
Could you expand on that a bit,I'm not sure if I'm clinched at all.LOL What do you think it should be? A 5k ohm I watt Fusible resistor?😕
The board identifier clinched it as a fuse. A fuse is only good if it is in series - otherwise the current can just ignore it, whatever it does.
Now the value...
The bands are coded for 5, 0, and 2.
2 ohms and 5 amps seems to me the most logical fit with a 12V 4.5A power supply. (I'm going by memory; I didn't go back a page and check the ps rating.)
edit: Actually, 0.2 ohms makes more sense.
But I would likely just replace it with a regular fuse unless an exact replacement fell in my lap.
Now the value...
The bands are coded for 5, 0, and 2.
2 ohms and 5 amps seems to me the most logical fit with a 12V 4.5A power supply. (I'm going by memory; I didn't go back a page and check the ps rating.)
edit: Actually, 0.2 ohms makes more sense.
But I would likely just replace it with a regular fuse unless an exact replacement fell in my lap.
Last edited:
The board identifier clinched it as a fuse. A fuse is only good if it is in series - otherwise the current can just ignore it, whatever it does.
Now the value...
The bands are coded for 5, 0, and 2.
2 ohms and 5 amps seems to me the most logical fit with a 12V 4.5A power supply. (I'm going by memory; I didn't go back a page and check the ps rating.)
edit: Actually, 0.2 ohms makes more sense.
But I would likely just replace it with a regular fuse unless an exact replacement fell in my lap.
Thanks for taking the time and trouble to help me with this,Its appreciated.🙂
That was it!!! I used a 5watt 0.5 ohm resistor and it fired up straight away,I couldn't find a 5watt,0.2 ohm resistor. I will try a fuse in there and see what happens.
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