Still trying to find a magnifier that selectively magnifies the work object without making my geezer hand tremble so distracting.
Rest your wrist on a jam jar. Seriously. Makes all the difference in the world when soldering.
Are Optivisor style models compatible with glasses? Is it okay for people who are nearsighted or farsighted without glasses?
I find my Optivisor is very comfortable to wear, and it easily flips up out of the way when I want to have unmagnified vision.
And the original and "real" Optivisor has glass lenses whereas much less expensive knock-offs have plastic lenses. The less expensive Optivisor LX line also has plastic lenses.
And the original and "real" Optivisor has glass lenses whereas much less expensive knock-offs have plastic lenses. The less expensive Optivisor LX line also has plastic lenses.
Stereo vision is VERY important when working with tools under magnification. It greatly facilitates correct positioning of your tool in 3d. With watchmaker's loupe it is difficult, for example, to tell whether soldering iron tip touches the plate or hovers above it.
A piece of closed cell packing foam works great for a steady rest. I also use it to organize and hold through hole parts in pin cushion fashion.
My work light is a 450W (true W, not equivalent) full spectrum LED grow light. I dim it to a fraction of that for everyday use but when necessary, I have the sun available at the turn of a dial.
Not all of my magnifier use is at the bench though so I might try the headband unit posted by @Markw4 . The light appears far more substantial than the single tiny LED in my eyeglass style pair while maintaining the quick change lenses.
My work light is a 450W (true W, not equivalent) full spectrum LED grow light. I dim it to a fraction of that for everyday use but when necessary, I have the sun available at the turn of a dial.
Not all of my magnifier use is at the bench though so I might try the headband unit posted by @Markw4 . The light appears far more substantial than the single tiny LED in my eyeglass style pair while maintaining the quick change lenses.
There is an ergonomic assist available that works very well.
I find it useful for soldering. It supports forearm without constraining movement. Very easy to setup.
https://www.spectronics.com.au/product/ergorest-armrest
Cheap +2 reading glasses at the moment. That is fine for what I normal solder, large enough and enough distance not to burn my nose with the soldering iron. When inspecting a TSSOP I need something stronger and use a 10x jewelers loupe. 3 of those led spots on a flexible arm to get enough light. These days having enough light is becoming more a problem for me.
Drawback of the reading glasses are that I cannot read what is on my pc monitor where I normally have the schematics and layout showing. So it is on-off with those glasses all the time.
Drawback of the reading glasses are that I cannot read what is on my pc monitor where I normally have the schematics and layout showing. So it is on-off with those glasses all the time.
How different between plastic and glass lens? I also would like to know which lens I should get if I get a real one. https://www.amazon.com/Donegan-OptiVISOR-Headband-Magnifier-Lensplate/dp/B000EO3JNC?th=1
I have been using the Donegan for years without trouble. Glass is more scratch resistant than plastic of course, but I doubt that in this case you will need high dollar lenses. It's not a lot of money either.
Donegan Optivisor DA3 lens is a good compromise between magnification and working distance. I also have a Donegan LP10 lens plate, but found it unusable for soldering due to the short working distance.
The glass lens are more robust in workshop use.
Plastic needs careful handling and storage to prevent scratching and discolouration.
Cleaning plastic brings its own problems too.
Plastic can also be affected by soldering fumes, though hopefully you use a fan or similar to keep these away ?
The DA3 lens would be a good start. Can you visit a store selling the Optivisor and try a couple of lenses ? They are easily interchanged. Perhaps a store selling fishing fly-tieing supplies as these tasks usually require magnification.
Plastic for clean area (eg fly-tyieing ) and Glass for workshops.
Clean plastic lenses very, very gently with full strength Simple Green, rinse with tap water, dry with microfiber towel. No scratches. Haven't had any problems with discoloration. At least this works well for the head mounted magnifier lenses I recommended (but those lenses are made from better plastic than most similar types of magnifiers; I've tried a few of them).
Also have to clean microscope lenses now and then. Eyepieces get dead skin particles from eyelids on them, microfiber wipes it off. Objective lens gets some solder flux fumes, usually microfiber is enough to wipe it clean.
https://www.amazon.com/Donegan-OptiVISOR-Headband-Magnifier-Lensplate/dp/B000EO3JNC?th=1
Thank you guys. Does “1.5x Magnification, 20" Focal Length” mean it only focuses on objects about 20 inches away, and “3.5x Magnification, 4" Focal Length” means you have to get as close as 4 inches for it to be in focus? In other words, is it correct to say that you should choose based on your working style?
Thank you guys. Does “1.5x Magnification, 20" Focal Length” mean it only focuses on objects about 20 inches away, and “3.5x Magnification, 4" Focal Length” means you have to get as close as 4 inches for it to be in focus? In other words, is it correct to say that you should choose based on your working style?