I got my dad's old setup and thought of making it sound better, so why not start with the crossover? It was supposed to be a 3-way speaker, but only the Tweeter and Mid have a (1st order?) crossover. I've been reading this forum on designing a better one, like making those slopes as steep as possible and moving them to a higher crossover order.
Below is the current setup. I managed to get those driver's FRD and ZMA.
It looks terrible to me mainly because all 3 overlaps each other and woofer is playing all frequencies. I used those online calculators to get a "roughly" better crossover and here is what I got
It looks better than before (at least for me), but I need advice from others. This is the best setup I could do since parts availability is a limiting factor (Capacitor from 0.68 to 47µF, Inductors from 0.1 to 2.0, and 3.5 µH)
Below is the current setup. I managed to get those driver's FRD and ZMA.
It looks terrible to me mainly because all 3 overlaps each other and woofer is playing all frequencies. I used those online calculators to get a "roughly" better crossover and here is what I got
It looks better than before (at least for me), but I need advice from others. This is the best setup I could do since parts availability is a limiting factor (Capacitor from 0.68 to 47µF, Inductors from 0.1 to 2.0, and 3.5 µH)
On your first screenshot, check the two components on the tweeter. They may be switched. This is your comparison crossover so it's worth knowing.
I'd disagree. The steepness depends on what specific problems you need to tame, so if I needed to go too steep I'd look to remove the problem instead.. Not only that but it's harder to tweak if you're tweaking by ear. Perhaps spend the time to get second order right before making a judgement.
Hi Allen
Yep I switched it by mistake on CAD. The actual crossover inside the speaker goes from capacitor to inductor, not after the inductor.
I got the steep idea from those online calculators and where to place those components. Isn't the current crossover as good as it can get? There are only 2 variables I could change to make a huge difference.
Yep I switched it by mistake on CAD. The actual crossover inside the speaker goes from capacitor to inductor, not after the inductor.
I got the steep idea from those online calculators and where to place those components. Isn't the current crossover as good as it can get? There are only 2 variables I could change to make a huge difference.
Do you mean the second one? I see the woofer and tweeter filters produce a high Q peak, and even though they hand off to the mid it could be something that stands out if the blend is not successful. It's not easy to say it will be just looking at response plots.
Further to that you might apply cabinet effects such as baffle step. You may want to use some resistors.
Further to that you might apply cabinet effects such as baffle step. You may want to use some resistors.
Hi Erik
Yes they are ferrofluid. I also made sure by checking the datasheet.
Yes they are ferrofluid. I also made sure by checking the datasheet.
I meant the first one. The schematic I made to show what the current crossover looks like. You did mention it was switched. SPL seems off as well, so I double-checked.
Planning to add baffle compensation for last. I haven't gotten to that part yet but I did spend the next hours trying out several resistor placements on the second schematic. Can't seem to figure out a config where it would smooth out.
Then there's an extra variable. As you adjust the midrange low and high parts they also interact and alter the midrange level.
Sometimes an L-pad is easier to work with than a single series resistor.
(Some things are a little challenging to predict without the crossover in front of us to work with.)
Yes they are ferrofluid. I also made sure by checking the datasheet.
That's fine, sorry, nothing against that, but if old the tweeters may be crusty. If possible to clean and refill I'd consider doing that OR consider new tweets.
That's fine, sorry, nothing against that, but if old the tweeters may be crusty. If possible to clean and refill I'd consider doing that OR consider new tweets.
Just some general comments about the new crossover:
1) if you don't have baffle step in yet, where did the roughly 7 dB of sensitivity go below about 500 Hz? Or did you change some setting between the two models that explains that?
2) related to issue above, your midrange output is very hot now comparatively
3) the dip before it and peak around 500 Hz in the woofer output looks suspicious
1) if you don't have baffle step in yet, where did the roughly 7 dB of sensitivity go below about 500 Hz? Or did you change some setting between the two models that explains that?
2) related to issue above, your midrange output is very hot now comparatively
3) the dip before it and peak around 500 Hz in the woofer output looks suspicious
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Honest answer? Your calculated crossover will sound way worse than what your dad did. Sorry.
You do not improve by throwing things away and mixing a few new parts. What you do is to ask your self what problem you hear and work on that.
As we have 2024 and anyone can afford a measuring microfone, get one first, then start new.
This is the best advice you can get. Anything else is a waste of money and time without anything learned other than speaker building without measuring is monkey bussines.
You do not improve by throwing things away and mixing a few new parts. What you do is to ask your self what problem you hear and work on that.
As we have 2024 and anyone can afford a measuring microfone, get one first, then start new.
This is the best advice you can get. Anything else is a waste of money and time without anything learned other than speaker building without measuring is monkey bussines.
I’d say some components are ill-chosen. The woofer section lowpass and the tweeter section highpass deserve your attention.
