For my power needs and for economically running on tips and service parts I opted for low frequency 60W Metcal Smartheat. OKI PS-900 serves me great, no complains.
Welcome to OK International - Soldering, Rework and Fume Extraction System
Welcome to OK International - Soldering, Rework and Fume Extraction System
Pretty old thread but maybe someone will help me.
Straight question:
ERSA I-con nano (for arround 180 EUR) or Metcall PS-900 (240 EUR).
Is this automatic temperature adjustment to achieve melting point in Metcals is really that great?
Initially I was opting for Metcal but I found a bargain offer for I-con nano (180 EUR) so I am asking...
Straight question:
ERSA I-con nano (for arround 180 EUR) or Metcall PS-900 (240 EUR).
Is this automatic temperature adjustment to achieve melting point in Metcals is really that great?
Initially I was opting for Metcal but I found a bargain offer for I-con nano (180 EUR) so I am asking...
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In France, ERSA Pico, 99 €, add VAT :
Soudage et dessoudage - STATION DE SOUDAGE STATION ERSA - STATION DE SOUDAGE I-CON PICO 80W 230 V - L'impulsion
Soudage et dessoudage - STATION DE SOUDAGE STATION ERSA - STATION DE SOUDAGE I-CON PICO 80W 230 V - L'impulsion
Pretty old thread but maybe someone will help me.
Straight question:
ERSA I-con nano (for arround 180 EUR) or Metcall PS-900 (240 EUR).
Is this automatic temperature adjustment to achieve melting point in Metcals is really that great?
Initially I was opting for Metcal but I found a bargain offer for I-con nano (180 EUR) so I am asking...
Ersa is more familiar in operation and has a smaller handle for preciser work. PS-900 is more industrial like. Has better thermal recovery and peak power but this may not occur in hobby work when the Ersa is no toy anyway. Nano has better build quality than Pico in key places as a member was describing, and its ESD safe.
That's correct to a degree. It depends how much soldering you do and how much you enjoy it. It also depends on the range of parts you need to solder, if it's wide encompassing like big terminals and SMD then something like a JBC is good.
Having used basic low irons now a temperature controlled Weller I would never recomend a 17W Antex non-tempco. That said, you could buy a semi decent tempco iron for 50 quid and a big gun for 20 quid and have change for a meal out from JBC money. I'm still considering the JBC though as I do a lot of varied soldering and it has to be a high quality finish.
Having used basic low irons now a temperature controlled Weller I would never recomend a 17W Antex non-tempco. That said, you could buy a semi decent tempco iron for 50 quid and a big gun for 20 quid and have change for a meal out from JBC money. I'm still considering the JBC though as I do a lot of varied soldering and it has to be a high quality finish.
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For last two years I was using 25W Pensol for 25 EUR with a single tip. But I am soldering more and more, and sometimes rework is a problem. What is more I've decided to move to SMD so it is about 80% of my work. I am soldering about 1 hr - 2 hrs a day, but I like to make this fun and enjoyable.
I believe my new iron will last till end of my hobby... ;-)
I believe my new iron will last till end of my hobby... ;-)
I realised I've been avoiding soldering because of the horrors of unregulated soldering irons. I still use the 60w old style iron. I tried a stanley as well. After watching several YouTube videos came across the TS100. It's got everything I need. I may be ordering it pretty soon. Today's PCBs need more precision work than the tube days. Hope this helps someone. YouTube
Yihua 936 strictly analog version from hobbyking.com. Separately purchased an official Hakko chisel tip from my local retailer. Took it apart to find out that the build quality was fine. The ceramic heater even had a metal sleeve/ lucky I quess. Weighted down the holder stand with a good size hunk of lead.
I've used a Solomon SL-30 (same under many different names) and have nothing but good to say for it. It is way better than any Weller iron I have used, and I used to run a service shop full of soldering irons.
Lately I have been using something called a Quick, same as a Hakko I think. Very fast warm up. No matter what iron you do go for, you need a bunch of different tips. Most useful are the "chisel", or "screwdriver" tips. I use the largest down to a fine tip. Conical tips are fairly useless I find.
The one issue with the Quick and Hakko is the need to calibrate the temperature control. Once done (it is a fast process), the iron will hold that temperature extremely well. You need to do this when changing tips. Spare tips are available, just use the Hakko tips. The one thing I like better about the Quick iron, it's grey. The exact model I'm using is the Quick3104.
If you are buying a new station, go for the Quick/Hakko.
Harry, you need a station. Once you use one of these you'll have to figure out why you didn't before this. The iron you're using can be responsible for injecting leakage AC currents into your work. What you have there is an emergency fall-back solution, not something I would choose to use.
-Chris
Lately I have been using something called a Quick, same as a Hakko I think. Very fast warm up. No matter what iron you do go for, you need a bunch of different tips. Most useful are the "chisel", or "screwdriver" tips. I use the largest down to a fine tip. Conical tips are fairly useless I find.
The one issue with the Quick and Hakko is the need to calibrate the temperature control. Once done (it is a fast process), the iron will hold that temperature extremely well. You need to do this when changing tips. Spare tips are available, just use the Hakko tips. The one thing I like better about the Quick iron, it's grey. The exact model I'm using is the Quick3104.
If you are buying a new station, go for the Quick/Hakko.
Harry, you need a station. Once you use one of these you'll have to figure out why you didn't before this. The iron you're using can be responsible for injecting leakage AC currents into your work. What you have there is an emergency fall-back solution, not something I would choose to use.
-Chris
I've used a Solomon SL-30 (same under many different names) and have nothing but good to say for it. It is way better than any Weller iron I have used, and I used to run a service shop full of soldering irons.
Lately I have been using something called a Quick, same as a Hakko I think. Very fast warm up. No matter what iron you do go for, you need a bunch of different tips. Most useful are the "chisel", or "screwdriver" tips. I use the largest down to a fine tip. Conical tips are fairly useless I find.
The one issue with the Quick and Hakko is the need to calibrate the temperature control. Once done (it is a fast process), the iron will hold that temperature extremely well. You need to do this when changing tips. Spare tips are available, just use the Hakko tips. The one thing I like better about the Quick iron, it's grey. The exact model I'm using is the Quick3104.
If you are buying a new station, go for the Quick/Hakko.
Harry, you need a station. Once you use one of these you'll have to figure out why you didn't before this. The iron you're using can be responsible for injecting leakage AC currents into your work. What you have there is an emergency fall-back solution, not something I would choose to use.
-Chris
Quick is not the same thing as Hakko, though they do clearly copy some of Hakko's design aesthetics (but not much). They are a Chinese company and the only thing Hakko related is that they use the hakko style wand and tips. At this point in China, those things aren't Hakko's anymore they are essentially a defacto standard.
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