Hello tube amp/preamp builders!
I'm wondering what depth of chassis works best in the average shelf unit, if there is such a thing. So I looked at some typical IKEA shelf units - they're big in Europe so should be in a lot of homes.
Depth of units:
28cm - several bookcases
36cm - 5 (common depth for TV stands)
40cm - 3
45cm - 2
50cm - 3
So assuming no cables come out of the back of units, it looks like most bookcases will take a chassis of 30cm (1ft) depth. A number of common TV stands are 35cm or 36cm (14") so that's the next most adaptable size. I didn't see anything deeper than 50cm (19.5"), so seems that's the cut-off point.
All my cables come vertically up out of the top plate - nothing on the back. You have the height with tube equipment anyway, so it's an effective use of space.
Right now I'm building chassis with a depth of 30cm. I might change that to 36cm so units aren't as wide at the front.
What's your experience of building chassis and fitting them on shelves? What would you recommend and what are your thoughts in general?
I'm wondering what depth of chassis works best in the average shelf unit, if there is such a thing. So I looked at some typical IKEA shelf units - they're big in Europe so should be in a lot of homes.
Depth of units:
28cm - several bookcases
36cm - 5 (common depth for TV stands)
40cm - 3
45cm - 2
50cm - 3
So assuming no cables come out of the back of units, it looks like most bookcases will take a chassis of 30cm (1ft) depth. A number of common TV stands are 35cm or 36cm (14") so that's the next most adaptable size. I didn't see anything deeper than 50cm (19.5"), so seems that's the cut-off point.
All my cables come vertically up out of the top plate - nothing on the back. You have the height with tube equipment anyway, so it's an effective use of space.
Right now I'm building chassis with a depth of 30cm. I might change that to 36cm so units aren't as wide at the front.
What's your experience of building chassis and fitting them on shelves? What would you recommend and what are your thoughts in general?
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I tend to go for a 40 cm depth for equipment racking. Although a lot of gear doesn't need all that space it does allow room for cables , banana plugs etc without to much strain from bending . I buy cheap units from Argos ( Verona ) that come in various sizes and use plastic pillars which i replace with wood or metal from diy stores and construct units around the system i'm building at the time .
If you have tubes then obviously the more space you have and air circulating can only be a good thing.
If you have tubes then obviously the more space you have and air circulating can only be a good thing.
Just as a precaution...
My brother has a McIntosh MC2102, and that one has connectors on the top.
Speaker connectors on top is a crappy solution if you have stiff speaker cables and a bit fragile connectors. Most cables needs to go downwards and towards the speakers, so bananas will then need a 180 degree turn, and spades will need 90 degrees. Connectors on the back needs only 90 degrees for bananas and 0 degrees for spades. My brother has broken several Furutech cable connectors due to this. (The amp connectors seems to hold together, though...)
Johan-Kr
My brother has a McIntosh MC2102, and that one has connectors on the top.
Speaker connectors on top is a crappy solution if you have stiff speaker cables and a bit fragile connectors. Most cables needs to go downwards and towards the speakers, so bananas will then need a 180 degree turn, and spades will need 90 degrees. Connectors on the back needs only 90 degrees for bananas and 0 degrees for spades. My brother has broken several Furutech cable connectors due to this. (The amp connectors seems to hold together, though...)
Johan-Kr
That's interesting - never thought of that. I don't have big thick speaker cables so the situation doesn't arise. But I guess some use them. This would then need dedicated hifi racks with open backs. No good for shelves.
On the other hand, I have a Cary SLA70B signature, with normal 5-way binding posts on the back. There, I need to move the amplifier far enough back, so that the speaker cables can hang down. Top-mounted posts would be beneficial in that case...
I use 5 mm2 (10 ga) solid core silver cables with silver spade lugs, and they're relatively stiff.
Johan-Kr
I use 5 mm2 (10 ga) solid core silver cables with silver spade lugs, and they're relatively stiff.
Johan-Kr
hi Andy.
I liked the small sizes i saw at your place on saturday (30cm deep?). That allows for phonos and speaker cavle copnnectors at the back if so desired. At the back also looks better sitting on a shelf in peoples lounges, to my mind. For asthetics as well as good sound, wives can be picky about this!
I liked the small sizes i saw at your place on saturday (30cm deep?). That allows for phonos and speaker cavle copnnectors at the back if so desired. At the back also looks better sitting on a shelf in peoples lounges, to my mind. For asthetics as well as good sound, wives can be picky about this!
Hi there,
Yes - 30cm front to back usually. All my connectors are vertical on the top plate. No picky wives around here! But i do see your point. Hope you enjoyed the sounds. I'm testing cathode resistors today.
Yes - 30cm front to back usually. All my connectors are vertical on the top plate. No picky wives around here! But i do see your point. Hope you enjoyed the sounds. I'm testing cathode resistors today.
You would need one like this, cables at the sides! 😀
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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