Okay.. What about a Metronome with a little more exclusive driver, costing around 80-100$ each driver?
And what is WAF? I've heard that word many times but i don't know what it is really.
If it's a metronome i will use it as a reference-speaker, not really listening to heavy-metal and so, my Dynavoices will take care of that. And by the way, the drivers have to be okay with my amp, it's a Harman Kardon HK3490.
And what is WAF? I've heard that word many times but i don't know what it is really.
If it's a metronome i will use it as a reference-speaker, not really listening to heavy-metal and so, my Dynavoices will take care of that. And by the way, the drivers have to be okay with my amp, it's a Harman Kardon HK3490.
WAF = wife approval factor (since you have stated you are 15, I think it's safe to assume that you aren't married!)
The Metronome tables show a wide selection of drivers. If the Fostex FE127e were still available, that would be my first recommendation. I have not heard the FX120, but it would fit the cabinet I built for the F120A. The FX120 is a bit on the high side price-wise. Alpair drivers may be a good choice, however, I have only listened to Alpair 10 and didn't like them (perhaps due to insufficient break-in.)
The Metronome tables show a wide selection of drivers. If the Fostex FE127e were still available, that would be my first recommendation. I have not heard the FX120, but it would fit the cabinet I built for the F120A. The FX120 is a bit on the high side price-wise. Alpair drivers may be a good choice, however, I have only listened to Alpair 10 and didn't like them (perhaps due to insufficient break-in.)
Haha, then i don't care much about WAF. It's my room and i am (at the moment) the only one living in it ;P
I will take a look at the FE127e. I read in the Metronome thread about two guys who build with the FE127e and according to them it was great. Will take a look at both the drivers and the plans.
But, will they fit well with my amplifier?
I will take a look at the FE127e. I read in the Metronome thread about two guys who build with the FE127e and according to them it was great. Will take a look at both the drivers and the plans.
But, will they fit well with my amplifier?
heres my 2 pence worth
if you ask me, and you didnt but here i go anyway.
why not just build a simple bass reflex system or even a sealed box system, and make it a 2 way? there are plenty of drivers available to use in this application, and many of them are cheap enough, ( read entry level ) in a room that size i would be tempted to build some boxes in the region of 15-40 litres and a driver size of between 5" and 8". visaton.com has some great entry level woofers in this range, paper coned and fairly budget priced. i could not think of an easier and fool proof way to get a moderate to high level of sound quality for less cash. other vendors such as Tang band , and dayton can also offer good value to price ratio, although ive no personal experience of them.
fullrange is great and i am in no way trying to discourage you from that route at all, but what scottmoose says is valid nevertheless. with rock music (meshuggah are great BTW), a small excursion FR driver may present some doppler and perhaps lack the dynamic range at low frequencies which a rock kick drum and tom toms need. at low volumes i dont expect it would be a problem, but if you decide to blast it loud when your dad is out, them it may sound a little limited, and sound quality may suffer.
That being said, i do believe a FR driver would sound lovely on 'acoustic' rock.
if you ask me, and you didnt but here i go anyway.
why not just build a simple bass reflex system or even a sealed box system, and make it a 2 way? there are plenty of drivers available to use in this application, and many of them are cheap enough, ( read entry level ) in a room that size i would be tempted to build some boxes in the region of 15-40 litres and a driver size of between 5" and 8". visaton.com has some great entry level woofers in this range, paper coned and fairly budget priced. i could not think of an easier and fool proof way to get a moderate to high level of sound quality for less cash. other vendors such as Tang band , and dayton can also offer good value to price ratio, although ive no personal experience of them.
fullrange is great and i am in no way trying to discourage you from that route at all, but what scottmoose says is valid nevertheless. with rock music (meshuggah are great BTW), a small excursion FR driver may present some doppler and perhaps lack the dynamic range at low frequencies which a rock kick drum and tom toms need. at low volumes i dont expect it would be a problem, but if you decide to blast it loud when your dad is out, them it may sound a little limited, and sound quality may suffer.
That being said, i do believe a FR driver would sound lovely on 'acoustic' rock.
It would work, but it wouldn't be as fun.
But, i do have a subwoofer at the moment. It's an XTZ 99 w8.16.
How about a pair of Lotus-speakers with CHR-70 and my subwoofer takes on the bass? Or will it just end up bad?
And if i build a pair of metronomes i will probably use them as a reference speaker and let my Dynavoices take care of the heavy-metal and that music.
But, i do have a subwoofer at the moment. It's an XTZ 99 w8.16.
How about a pair of Lotus-speakers with CHR-70 and my subwoofer takes on the bass? Or will it just end up bad?
And if i build a pair of metronomes i will probably use them as a reference speaker and let my Dynavoices take care of the heavy-metal and that music.
The use of woofer(s) with full ranges to help fill out the bass is time-honoured and recommended. Taken to extremes (ie 1 woofer/side), it is called FAST. Depending on executuion these have no problems playing anything.
dave
Uhm, you mean 1 subwoofer for the left channel and one for the right channel? It is possible to do so with my amp, just gotta get another identical sub then...
Or is it possible to have a passive subwoofer in the Lotus-box? Or is that completely impossible? As you can see i am very new to this, my interest in hi-fi started like half a year ago after listening to B&W 800D and some Classé stuff for a couple of hours 😉
Or is it possible to have a passive subwoofer in the Lotus-box? Or is that completely impossible? As you can see i am very new to this, my interest in hi-fi started like half a year ago after listening to B&W 800D and some Classé stuff for a couple of hours 😉
Now i am really into a Lotus with a CHR-70 driver. You sayit's better for rock-music and so but is it still good at acoustic music and such stuff?
I am thinking of making a Lotus (not sure if 1 or 2 drivers) and cut the top off (like in the ^2 version) and making a stepped deflector from MDF for stability and the make a concrete foot or from some nice real wood.
But, i am unsure about the 2-driver version. Somebody said it gives more in the lower regions (bass) but the it costs far more, and placing a driver on the side like that isn't really optimal in my room. Is it possible to place two drivers in the front or one in the front and one at the back? Lots of questions but i want to learn stuff ;D
Is it even worth the extra money of making the 2-driver version?
I am thinking of making a Lotus (not sure if 1 or 2 drivers) and cut the top off (like in the ^2 version) and making a stepped deflector from MDF for stability and the make a concrete foot or from some nice real wood.
But, i am unsure about the 2-driver version. Somebody said it gives more in the lower regions (bass) but the it costs far more, and placing a driver on the side like that isn't really optimal in my room. Is it possible to place two drivers in the front or one in the front and one at the back? Lots of questions but i want to learn stuff ;D
Is it even worth the extra money of making the 2-driver version?
Referring to your tread subject you should build robot that feels like real woman without that constant nagging. I saw you are just 15 so why would you traumatize yourself with real woman. Just build one.
Ah, the fleeting inspiration of youth 😀 - (against which 4 times your number of birthdays is no guarantee 🙄 )
You'll likely get more consistent advice if you narrowed your inquiries to a particular forum thread - some of us greybeards have trouble watching youngsters bouncing off the walls 🙂 (particularly those with "adult" children)😱
anyways,
For your particular application, I'd be inclined to agree with either Mondogenerator's 2-way, or Jim's Metronome suggestions. Since you have a powered subwoofer that we assume you'd retain, you could very likely get away with a pair of mains high passed around 80-100Hz.
This enclosure design has proven to be flexible with FE127E (for example, it can be vented either front or back, or even to the sides). These types of tall/skinny enclosures can be very tippy, so enlarged base plates & ballast is advisable.
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/box-plans/fonken-tune-FE127-FS-Mk2.pdf
and shouldn't be too difficult to modify to accommodate a CHR or EL70, and the new inexpensive dome tweeter from Mark
http://creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS-ERT26-data-260310.pdf
As gentle as you think you might treat the system most of the time, you're only one "folks are gone for the weekend, mates it's partytime" away from disaster - there's no such thing as too much margin of safety
You'll likely get more consistent advice if you narrowed your inquiries to a particular forum thread - some of us greybeards have trouble watching youngsters bouncing off the walls 🙂 (particularly those with "adult" children)😱
anyways,
For your particular application, I'd be inclined to agree with either Mondogenerator's 2-way, or Jim's Metronome suggestions. Since you have a powered subwoofer that we assume you'd retain, you could very likely get away with a pair of mains high passed around 80-100Hz.
This enclosure design has proven to be flexible with FE127E (for example, it can be vented either front or back, or even to the sides). These types of tall/skinny enclosures can be very tippy, so enlarged base plates & ballast is advisable.
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/box-plans/fonken-tune-FE127-FS-Mk2.pdf
and shouldn't be too difficult to modify to accommodate a CHR or EL70, and the new inexpensive dome tweeter from Mark
http://creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS-ERT26-data-260310.pdf
As gentle as you think you might treat the system most of the time, you're only one "folks are gone for the weekend, mates it's partytime" away from disaster - there's no such thing as too much margin of safety
I'll let Scott confirm this, but I think you'd still run into issues of "integration" at the listening position apparent in your current room with this type of design.
As to the merits of 2 driver version of a floorstanding speaker enclosure - see my earlier comments re the Castle Microtower.
If you plan ahead it is possible to build a single driver version & retrofit to the 2 driver version, or make the 2 driver version and just cover the 2nd driver hole with a plate -- the boxes are dimensionally the same.
If you have 2 woofers it means you can start increasing the XO point... but if you are going to do that, than you are better to build smaller boxes.
A single sub with Lotus (which by itself will get into the 40s) will be fine.
The sub can be used circa <40, 50 Hz with no high pass on the Lotus, as you actively filter out the bottom of the Lotus and raise the sub XO (max 80-100 Hz) you increase the maximum loudness potential of the system.
Do note that Lotus probably has higher quality midbass (40-80 Hz) than the sub.
dave
If you have 2 woofers it means you can start increasing the XO point... but if you are going to do that, than you are better to build smaller boxes.
A single sub with Lotus (which by itself will get into the 40s) will be fine.
The sub can be used circa <40, 50 Hz with no high pass on the Lotus, as you actively filter out the bottom of the Lotus and raise the sub XO (max 80-100 Hz) you increase the maximum loudness potential of the system.
Do note that Lotus probably has higher quality midbass (40-80 Hz) than the sub.
dave
Lotus should do; it's a smaller box than the others & I reckon it'll work in that space. If you went twin driver, I'd get them both on the front baffle rather than semi-omni, not my usual practice, but it'll get powerhandling up & the CHRs can pull it off. Best with twin woofers / subs for heavy material, but you could say that about most any full-range setup.
Correct me as am probably very way-off wrong-but if went with Metronome or similar and those could use woofers....
Couldn't you add a separate small tweeter & 2-way crossover box ? (maybe later on)
Like where amp to speaker cables hook to the small tweeter box, and the crossover woofer cables would go to the Metronomes ?
Could build the Xover tweeter box to attach atop or something - on the back Metronome's top - knurled nuts (hand tighten no screwdriver or wrench needed) and short connecting plate or something for quick changes.
That way you could have your full range and a 2-way without any changes at all to the Metronomes, just hook up like woofers to mess with 2 way ?
Again I may be way off but might give you more that you could do with that setup.
Couldn't you add a separate small tweeter & 2-way crossover box ? (maybe later on)
Like where amp to speaker cables hook to the small tweeter box, and the crossover woofer cables would go to the Metronomes ?
Could build the Xover tweeter box to attach atop or something - on the back Metronome's top - knurled nuts (hand tighten no screwdriver or wrench needed) and short connecting plate or something for quick changes.
That way you could have your full range and a 2-way without any changes at all to the Metronomes, just hook up like woofers to mess with 2 way ?
Again I may be way off but might give you more that you could do with that setup.
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