I've seen a Thorens TD166 MkII on the internet with a defect needle but as the owner says in mint condition.
Extra's are a steel plater and a anti-skating counter weight. Don't know what to expect but it sounds like a nice-to-have feature?
What's a fair price for this secondhand Thorens?
Extra's are a steel plater and a anti-skating counter weight. Don't know what to expect but it sounds like a nice-to-have feature?
What's a fair price for this secondhand Thorens?
I have one of those, but I bought it 20 years ago and so have
no idea what it might be worth today. I am not sure what you
mean by the extras though. Extra steel platter? The anti-skating
weight should be included originally. There is a small one, and a
larger one that fits aroung the smaller one, if you need
a heavier weight.
no idea what it might be worth today. I am not sure what you
mean by the extras though. Extra steel platter? The anti-skating
weight should be included originally. There is a small one, and a
larger one that fits aroung the smaller one, if you need
a heavier weight.
Extra's are a steel plater
I would think this is a steel (alu) subplatter - it originally uses a plasic one and the metal is known to sound better and closer to the 160 big brother. About $150 is the max sane price to pay for it.
analog_sa said:
I would think this is a steel (alu) subplatter - it originally uses a plasic one and the metal is known to sound better and closer to the 160 big brother. About $150 is the max sane price to pay for it.
Aha, you mean a steel replacement for this plastic hub in
the middle?
Sounds like an interesting tweak. I have an uncle who could
probably have done one for me at work. unfortunately he is
retired now. 🙁
Okay ;-)
Guess I just bought it for 15 euro?
It still needs a needle though, I'll pick it up next week.
Guess I just bought it for 15 euro?
It still needs a needle though, I'll pick it up next week.
Only 15 Euro and it is in good condition!!! That's more like an
insult than a bargain 🙂 For that price I might have considered
buying it myself, in case I will need spare parts for mine.
Come to think of it, that is about half the price a new belt
for it costs!!!
insult than a bargain 🙂 For that price I might have considered
buying it myself, in case I will need spare parts for mine.
Come to think of it, that is about half the price a new belt
for it costs!!!
I'm thinking about buying a Grado prestige series needle.
Options are the black, green or the blue one.
Which would suit my TD166MkII best?
Next thursday is the pickup day 😀
Options are the black, green or the blue one.
Which would suit my TD166MkII best?
Next thursday is the pickup day 😀
Send my TD166mkII to the shop today. The repair guys are fitting new connectors to the headshell wires and fitting a Grado Prestige Silver.
One of the connectors was broken off, the rest was corroded beyond resque.
One of the connectors was broken off, the rest was corroded beyond resque.
15 Euro should be considered a steal, but not unheard of -- i picked up a 160 (with 2 carbon fibre brushes) for $4 CAD at a garage sale -- typically i pay closer to $100 CAD and they will sell for $100 to $150 USD.
dave
dave
I bought a TD160 in mint condition with an almost new simple grado element. Cost me 100€ = 100$
The owner was a guy who really loved turntables (had a few Michell's)
He said the Denon DL-110 was very good in combination with the TD 160, and probably with the 166 also.
The owner was a guy who really loved turntables (had a few Michell's)
He said the Denon DL-110 was very good in combination with the TD 160, and probably with the 166 also.
Tazzy said:Send my TD166mkII to the shop today. The repair guys are fitting new connectors to the headshell wires and fitting a Grado Prestige Silver.
One of the connectors was broken off, the rest was corroded beyond resque.
Could have done the repairs myself but the shop said they would setup the new needle.
This thorens has an external trafo, right?
I own a TD160MK1, and the motor is line rated, but maybe yours is 16V. If so, you can easily build a signal generator and get the mains distortion out of your synchronous motor. With mine the results are that the motor doesn't bzzzz any more, even with a stethescope in the shaft.
I recomend it if your to do list is starting to get empty.
I own a TD160MK1, and the motor is line rated, but maybe yours is 16V. If so, you can easily build a signal generator and get the mains distortion out of your synchronous motor. With mine the results are that the motor doesn't bzzzz any more, even with a stethescope in the shaft.
I recomend it if your to do list is starting to get empty.
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