Maybe it is a good idea to use the same capacitors as behind the fake caps. Then the value is the same as indicated in the schematic as well.
15 kuF (kilomicroFarad?!) or even worse "kuf" is nonsense lingo, just use 15,000 µF or 15 mF if you want to be eccentric 🙂
IF you want to build well performing so good audio that also lasts a normal lifetime then avoid Ebay to buy electronic parts.
15 kuF (kilomicroFarad?!) or even worse "kuf" is nonsense lingo, just use 15,000 µF or 15 mF if you want to be eccentric 🙂
IF you want to build well performing so good audio that also lasts a normal lifetime then avoid Ebay to buy electronic parts.
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That .33 ohm resistor is in series with the amp. Something in the amp is pulling a whole bunch of current to smoke that resistor.
That cap. No other part can cause that. It can very well be a relabelled 16V cap that started to go kaputt, drawing a lot of current the switcher apparently could deliver and then burnt internally becoming a cap again. Opening it would reveal some things.
I would start by measuring resistance from the amp side of the 0.33 resistor to ground. Most amps I've seen the rail is at least several kohms to ground most much higher.
