I have salvaged a lot of leds from Samsung washing machine electronics. The color is somewhere between blue and green. Very sweet on old silver fronted gear.
My kids (9 & 11 years old) know how to change the jumper on my Elekit TU-8200 to select the green LED vs. the blue I usually set it at. Mind you, this involves removing the tubes (four) and seven screws. I finally gave up and left it at green after a year or so of occasionally coming home from work to find they'd swapped the jumper from blue to green.
So...apparently all the young kids these days prefer green.
So...apparently all the young kids these days prefer green.
All you need is a RGB LED and a DIP SWITCH
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Not really picky, but just not yellow please. Also, I prefer the light to not be intrusive (bright) so I'm inclined to only have a 2 mm hole on the front of a panel, with the LED mounted to the back with a grommet or similar. Almost a pinhole effect.
A lot of computer stuff has white LEDs. That's a possibility. It'll fit in with just about anything.
Amber is what we used with grey accents some twelve years ago in a high end interior.
I’ve retrofitted a few of the harsh, white led bulbs in our house with an amber theatre gel to mellow them out a bit, is generally well accepted.
I’d say neon yellow-green, or bright teal is more in now, if you wanted to stay current.
I’ve retrofitted a few of the harsh, white led bulbs in our house with an amber theatre gel to mellow them out a bit, is generally well accepted.
I’d say neon yellow-green, or bright teal is more in now, if you wanted to stay current.
I once made a dashboard car battery indicator from a couple of opamps and a bicolour LED. I got the idea from Elektor and adapted my circuit to do more. It was really cool 🙂
From 12.5 volts to 14.5 volts the LED changed colour gradually from red through to yellow and then green. Used a variable mark space oscillator that swung over a narrow voltage range.
When the battery voltage fell to 12.5 (so ignition off) another opamp oscillator kicked in and flashed it RED as a security LED. That was all back in the very early 90's.
And not too bright. Even 1mA is a lot for a modern 2mm LED
HiFi tends to be used in darkened rooms.
I like these fresh colors - purple and turquoise..but they are only available as bare LEDs ... I like illuminated push-button switches or industrial LED indicator lamps in the nice housing - but they don't have that modern colors.
Brightness and color do not bother me usually - I use red, yellow, amber, blue, green, white. I have also seen led indicator automatic dimming circuit with a photo sensor/resistor.
Brightness and color do not bother me usually - I use red, yellow, amber, blue, green, white. I have also seen led indicator automatic dimming circuit with a photo sensor/resistor.
White is the color of modern general purpose electronics. At work we have just refreshed a product front panel; white LEDs have replaced the old fashioned green ones. Red is still there for the error/fault indicators only. The board manufacturer said that they mostly stock white LEDs nowadays, and a few RGBs.
On my tube amplifier I use amber LEDs.
On my tube amplifier I use amber LEDs.
This is an interesting conversation. I remember when LEDs first became available to hobbyists, red only of course, and you needed to dump at least 25 mA through them to get a feeble light output. Back then, I could've never predicted such a conversation as this. How far we've come!
Red is my usual go-to for power-on indicators, but that's probably due to my vast store of NOS engineering samples and other collected cast-offs. I recently used blue LEDs to back-light some Nixie tubes in a digital clock. The blue and neon orange are a nice combination. I found the blue was far too bright at night, so there's a photocell to measure ambient light that proportionally dims the LEDs when the room gets darker.
Red is my usual go-to for power-on indicators, but that's probably due to my vast store of NOS engineering samples and other collected cast-offs. I recently used blue LEDs to back-light some Nixie tubes in a digital clock. The blue and neon orange are a nice combination. I found the blue was far too bright at night, so there's a photocell to measure ambient light that proportionally dims the LEDs when the room gets darker.