If it measures okay, don't bother..
If there is noise after replacement, make a metal tube and use as a cover, connect the tube to ground. You could even make a wire coil and connect to ground...one side open will mean zero inductance.
See what the manual says about this part.
If there is noise after replacement, make a metal tube and use as a cover, connect the tube to ground. You could even make a wire coil and connect to ground...one side open will mean zero inductance.
See what the manual says about this part.
Wow, you young guys never worked on products using GLOW FETS (sorry TUBES)? Did anyone ever see a Double or Triple alum can electrolytic capacitor? They also make them in axial lead. 50uf+50uf@500V.
When all else fails, read it again.
When all else fails, read it again.
I am 56, and first transistor radio in 1972...only tube radio we have is from 1966.
I do have copies of the Audel's Radioman's Guide, and in my college we had to learn about tubes, though by the time we finished, 1989, tubes were in only a few shops, NOS, out of production...
I do have copies of the Audel's Radioman's Guide, and in my college we had to learn about tubes, though by the time we finished, 1989, tubes were in only a few shops, NOS, out of production...
Yes I have seen and worked on 'glowing FETs' with swastikas on them. And I'm serious. German radios made before and during the WW2. Back to the topic.
This is not a dual nor a triple capacitor and certainly not a tube amplifier. The main question would be, how many guys here have seen such capacitor in such product.
We should make a poll. 😛
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Never seen one, but looks like a plain radial with an extra leg attached to case, axial style , whcich does not make it an axial, it only looks like one but is not so electrically and that´s what matters.
So case *only* acts as a shield.
I would replace it with a plain radial, same value, respect polarity, and IF you want it, just for peace of mind, leave plastic film sheath on, wrap copper or brass or aluminum around it and for safety/insulation an extra layer of gaffer/duct/packing tape.
Copper-brass will allow soldering the third pin, kitchen grade aluminum will require a couple turns copper wire around it, no big deal.
So case *only* acts as a shield.
I would replace it with a plain radial, same value, respect polarity, and IF you want it, just for peace of mind, leave plastic film sheath on, wrap copper or brass or aluminum around it and for safety/insulation an extra layer of gaffer/duct/packing tape.
Copper-brass will allow soldering the third pin, kitchen grade aluminum will require a couple turns copper wire around it, no big deal.