The chip (marked DP0 3S8) on Topping E30 is burned and looking for a replacement. Someone could tell me what is this parts? LDO?
Whole PCB can be seen here. (post #665)
Topping E30 DAC Review | Page 34 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
Whole PCB can be seen here. (post #665)
Topping E30 DAC Review | Page 34 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
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D.C.-D.C. Buck converter at a guess
Doesn’t look burnt to me ?
Have you checked some voltages on the ancillary components?
Doesn’t look burnt to me ?
Have you checked some voltages on the ancillary components?
Thank you. It is not my board. The pictures are from ASR. The chip on my board is completely burnt down and the unit does not even power up now.
Something like that doesnt happen without a reason and is unlikely to have gone down spectacularly without taking something else with it, so I wouldnt imagine just replacing the DC-DC convertor would guarantee it wouldnt happen again. removing it and perhaps any damaged caps (a better picture would help, of your board) and feeding 5V across the 5V test point and GND, from any old 5VDC test supply or lab supply and see how you go.
If you have nothing to lose you could try feeding in 5v to that 5v testpoint (along with the GND) after removing the IC. If that makes it work again you could add your own 5v section using a external buck reg board.
Wasn't the E30 the unit that was blowing up and killing headphones? If I remember correctly, they fixed it by grounding the chassis.
Something like that doesnt happen without a reason and is unlikely to have gone down spectacularly without taking something else with it, so I wouldnt imagine just replacing the DC-DC convertor would guarantee it wouldnt happen again. removing it and perhaps any damaged caps (a better picture would help, of your board) and feeding 5V across the 5V test point and GND, from any old 5VDC test supply or lab supply and see how you go.
I sold Topping E30 on Ebay, and the buyer returned it as damaged. I had to refund in full. I opened the box and found this chip is totally damaged. I'm pretty sure that the buyer connected incompatible PSU to the unit.
I was searching the chip, but I could find no 12 pin buck chip that would be the replacement for this. I'm still searching, so please let me know if someone can find one. I'll really appreciate it.
This is the picture of my board.
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How much to replace entire board?
I think it's cheaper to get a second hand unit... The unit is almost new, and I hesitate to trash this without trying to fix it due to DIYer's nature. 😱
This is the picture of my board.
I'd remove all burnt components in the area and clean it up , so you can check if the board and tracks are intact enough to be repairable in the first place!!
Lot of conductive carbonisation there too.
I sold Topping E30 on Ebay, and the buyer returned it as damaged. I had to refund in full. I opened the box and found this chip is totally damaged. I'm pretty sure that the buyer connected incompatible PSU to the unit.
It could well have killed IC's downstream too , you might get the psu section working to find the processor or DAC is dead too
I'd chuck it
Wasn't the E30 the unit that was blowing up and killing headphones? If I remember correctly, they fixed it by grounding the chassis.
No, that was the L30. And it has been fixed.
Yes, I did. it's about 3mmx3mm so I guess 12-TSSOP.
It's MSOP-12 in my opinion, not TSSOP
But there's loads of DC-DC converters in that case style, so it doesn't narrow it down that much further.
You may find it is a 4 layer machine assembled board made on a pick and place line, not easy to fix.
Check the rest of the components downstream before doing any work, it might be those are also damaged beyond repair.
Check the rest of the components downstream before doing any work, it might be those are also damaged beyond repair.
Thank you, guys. Yes, I cleaned up the board. As MikePP guessed, the trace is damaged and I even see copper layer after removing carbon.
One question about test PSU. The PCB says 5.65V, -5.6V and 10V (picture in the first post). Do I need all of them at exact voltage?
One question about test PSU. The PCB says 5.65V, -5.6V and 10V (picture in the first post). Do I need all of them at exact voltage?
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