I’m thinking the 15” Dayton reference would be a better fit for that cabinet than the 12”. The 12” specs indicate a 3/4 cu ft cabinet where the 15” drivers optimize at 2.81 cu ft. Why do you prefer the 12s for this application?
BTW, this cabinet is 2.8 cu ft sealed. I’m not opposed to porting it but it is currently sealed.
Captn Dave,
Yes the Ultimax line-up is impressive for HT. They have massive Xmax/Xmech, but lower overall sensitivity.
And while I don't have hands on experience with either, several others have commented their sound preference going towards the puncher (more musical) sounding Reference drivers.
My recommendation of sticking with the 12 for 2.8cubes is based on the following:
(1.) Parts Express staff loads the various driver T/S specs into BassBox Pro ( or something simular) pushes the "optimal" button, and there's your 3/4cubed
suggestion.
(2.) But optimal for what? With only 300Watts on tap will it reach past Xmax, are you sacrificing F3 for ideal box Q. Many variables.
(3.) 2.8cubed is rather small for even an auto spec'ed 15". In auto installation its assumed a massive cabin-gain at low Fq, so an earlier rolloff is acceptable. Not so much in your house. Sometimes quite the opposite.
In general, my rule for sub cabs has always gone like - "go as large as practical"! It's kind of like engines, much easier to make big-hp with big cubic inches.
Good luck on your pathway to upgrade nirvana!
Yes the Ultimax line-up is impressive for HT. They have massive Xmax/Xmech, but lower overall sensitivity.
And while I don't have hands on experience with either, several others have commented their sound preference going towards the puncher (more musical) sounding Reference drivers.
My recommendation of sticking with the 12 for 2.8cubes is based on the following:
(1.) Parts Express staff loads the various driver T/S specs into BassBox Pro ( or something simular) pushes the "optimal" button, and there's your 3/4cubed
suggestion.
(2.) But optimal for what? With only 300Watts on tap will it reach past Xmax, are you sacrificing F3 for ideal box Q. Many variables.
(3.) 2.8cubed is rather small for even an auto spec'ed 15". In auto installation its assumed a massive cabin-gain at low Fq, so an earlier rolloff is acceptable. Not so much in your house. Sometimes quite the opposite.
In general, my rule for sub cabs has always gone like - "go as large as practical"! It's kind of like engines, much easier to make big-hp with big cubic inches.
Good luck on your pathway to upgrade nirvana!
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