Our old-school solution for cabinet volume-reduction?
Works perfectly every time. 😀
Adding just a touch (like maybe a quarter ohm) of series resistance may work well too. That won't disrupt the damping too much...
Regards,
Gordon.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Works perfectly every time. 😀
Adding just a touch (like maybe a quarter ohm) of series resistance may work well too. That won't disrupt the damping too much...
Regards,
Gordon.
sreten said:Hi,
Adding some series resistance might work well.
🙂/sreten.
adding series resistance to the tweeter xover?
andy2 said:
adding series resistance to the tweeter xover?
Hi,
No. Adding it overall. It affects the damping of the bass driver.
1.5R to 2R in series should plump things up nicely.
🙂/sreten.
sreten said:
Hi,
No. Adding it overall. It affects the damping of the bass driver.
1.5R to 2R in series should plump things up nicely.
🙂/sreten.
I can add to tweeter xover, but adding resistor to woofer xover will significantly reduce dynamic. (i tried before 🙂 )
"over dampened typically means that the cabinet is smaller and thus the Q is higher."
Overdamped comes from low Q/bigger box.
Overdamped comes from low Q/bigger box.
cotdt said:
it's 0.707, that's the number i use
Q=.707 gives you the minimum settling time overall but allows some overshoot (not necessarily bad).
Q=.5 gives you the minimum settling time disallowing overshoot (critically damped).
To the point, bags of sand would work well, but are messier than bricks.
If you don't want it to weigh a ton you could use rigid closed cell foam like the variety used to make floral arrangements.
-David
gtforme00 said:To the point, bags of sand would work well, but are messier than bricks.
If you don't want it to weigh a ton you could use rigid closed cell foam like the variety used to make floral arrangements.
-David
If your speaker cabinet is waterproof, what about water ? Beer ? Or maybe a good wine or spirits if the cabinet is made with maple wood or some good wood. You open it up after 10 yrs and it's better than ever ! 😀

pjpoes said:over dampened typically means that the cabinet is smaller and thus the Q is higher. I think there is a lot of confusing information out there about this, which I can only guess comes from old vs new design. Many designers will call .5 critically dampened, some even go so far as to say .7 is critically dampened. They refer to this as high Q, and over dampened, then say that 1 or higher is very high Q and very over dampened.
Actually, there's a lot of confusing information in your own posts, rather than just other people's. 😉
.707 is usually good compromise, altho slightly lower often tends to work best in a typical listening room. Somewhere around .577 is also sometimes considered. .5 is critically damped. Under .5 is over damped. Anything much over .7 I usually refer to as over damped.
andy2, nice wood floor btw. 🙂
Damping and Q or Quality factor have precise definitions.
My mother always told me that if I didn't know what I was talking about I should keep my mouth shut.
Unfortunately she was pre internet.
sp
My mother always told me that if I didn't know what I was talking about I should keep my mouth shut.
Unfortunately she was pre internet.
sp
Re: cabinet Q
It seems to me that when a room and loudspeaker are considered as one system the differences between 0.5 and 0.707 Q are miniscule. Ever do a measurement of a typical listening room in the modal region? I can guarantee you will find several resonances with very high Q.
It seems to me that when a room and loudspeaker are considered as one system the differences between 0.5 and 0.707 Q are miniscule. Ever do a measurement of a typical listening room in the modal region? I can guarantee you will find several resonances with very high Q.
Sorry pjpoes you are wrong.
Over damped means the response to a square wave shows rounded corners, which is what happens when the box is made big (assuming Qts<0.5). The amplitude response will also be droopy.
Under damped means the response to a square wave begins to ripple, which is what happens when the box is made small. The amplitude response can be anything from showing a peak, through maximally flat, to just a tiny bit of droop.
Critically damped is and has always been Q=0.5, this is as good a perfect rendition of a square wave as you will get.
Under damped means some ripple of the square wave. With Q=0.707 although the amplitude response is maximally flat the square wave response shows a little peaking, it's slightly under damped.
Over damped means the response to a square wave shows rounded corners, which is what happens when the box is made big (assuming Qts<0.5). The amplitude response will also be droopy.
Under damped means the response to a square wave begins to ripple, which is what happens when the box is made small. The amplitude response can be anything from showing a peak, through maximally flat, to just a tiny bit of droop.
Critically damped is and has always been Q=0.5, this is as good a perfect rendition of a square wave as you will get.
Under damped means some ripple of the square wave. With Q=0.707 although the amplitude response is maximally flat the square wave response shows a little peaking, it's slightly under damped.
Right, flat response and critical damping don't occur at the same Q. All logical arguments aside, I've never liked sealed systems with the typical Q, but think they sound better up around 0.9- and I'm not a fan of thumpy bass. IMO, the best bet might be a Q around .5, but with equalization to correct the drooping response- assuming one has the power and the speaker can handle it.
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