I can't cut a straight line to save my life. I have both a table saw (jobsite-grade) and a Skilsaw with a sawboard, and neither one gets me what I want.
Is the problem with me?
Is the problem with me?
Possibly?
A sawboard, probably like one I made, does give you a straight cut PROVIDED it is clamped strongly and accurately marked. If the board is straight, the cut must be straight.
Make sure you have a sharp, multi-toothed, say 40 for 5 1/4, blade and you shouldn't go wrong. Unless you are like my good mate Robbie who could not do it if his life depended on it. 🙂
Frank
A sawboard, probably like one I made, does give you a straight cut PROVIDED it is clamped strongly and accurately marked. If the board is straight, the cut must be straight.
Make sure you have a sharp, multi-toothed, say 40 for 5 1/4, blade and you shouldn't go wrong. Unless you are like my good mate Robbie who could not do it if his life depended on it. 🙂
Frank
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Yes. What can help is to lube your table saw with paste wax - both the table and the fence. When things slide nicely it's easier to keep things straight. When I need the 'dead straight exactly perpendicular no splinter even with veneer' cut I use a straight edge clamped to the work and use a router to do the final trim. It's not as fast as you need to do the rough cut first, but the final cut will be really clean.
G²
It could be you, it could be your saw or it could be a combination of both.
Make sure your saw is properly aligned. This is critical. The blade and the fence need to be parallel to the miter slots.
Make sure you have a good blade. This is also very important.
Make sure your blade guard is properly installed and aligned. Lots of people remove theirs. This is not a good idea, these things can really make a difference, safety-wise.
Building speakers involves cutting large sheets of material. There is a definite technique to this and it takes practice. You need an outfeed table behind the saw to support the work as you push it through. You need to know where to stand. NEVER stand in line with the blade. The first reason is safety. The second is that you want to be on the side of the sheet opposite the fence so that you can steer the sheet so that it stays nicely up against the rip fence. NEVER use a miter gauge together with the rip fence. This invites kickback which is incredibly dangerous (and the main reason why you never stand in line with the blade).
I routinely run 4x8 sheets of plywood and MDF through my saw. I'm fanatical about keeping my saw aligned, my blade sharp, my guard installed and my saw top waxed. I also plan each cut, making sure that I can push the sheet entirely through the saw without it binding or catching on anything. I also make sure that the work is fully supported (I have a portable table that is just a fraction lower than my saw top that I use for support). The last thing you want is an unplanned distraction as the saw can grab the work and send it flying right at you at speeds that would impress top-fuel drag racers. NEVER allow someone to help by standing behind the saw and pulling the workpiece. That's another disaster waiting to happen. I often see this on DIY TV shows and it makes my skin crawl.
With a little practice and some planning, you can quickly learn to cut sheet goods into exactly-sized pieces on a tablesaw.
Make sure your saw is properly aligned. This is critical. The blade and the fence need to be parallel to the miter slots.
Make sure you have a good blade. This is also very important.
Make sure your blade guard is properly installed and aligned. Lots of people remove theirs. This is not a good idea, these things can really make a difference, safety-wise.
Building speakers involves cutting large sheets of material. There is a definite technique to this and it takes practice. You need an outfeed table behind the saw to support the work as you push it through. You need to know where to stand. NEVER stand in line with the blade. The first reason is safety. The second is that you want to be on the side of the sheet opposite the fence so that you can steer the sheet so that it stays nicely up against the rip fence. NEVER use a miter gauge together with the rip fence. This invites kickback which is incredibly dangerous (and the main reason why you never stand in line with the blade).
I routinely run 4x8 sheets of plywood and MDF through my saw. I'm fanatical about keeping my saw aligned, my blade sharp, my guard installed and my saw top waxed. I also plan each cut, making sure that I can push the sheet entirely through the saw without it binding or catching on anything. I also make sure that the work is fully supported (I have a portable table that is just a fraction lower than my saw top that I use for support). The last thing you want is an unplanned distraction as the saw can grab the work and send it flying right at you at speeds that would impress top-fuel drag racers. NEVER allow someone to help by standing behind the saw and pulling the workpiece. That's another disaster waiting to happen. I often see this on DIY TV shows and it makes my skin crawl.
With a little practice and some planning, you can quickly learn to cut sheet goods into exactly-sized pieces on a tablesaw.
I solved this problem by getting my material from a neighbor who is a professional cabinet maker. For a small amount over the cost of the 1" mdf, he cut DISGUSTINGLY IDENTICAL parts. You could stack the same parts and not feel any variation on the edges. I did use Visio to layout the parts to scale and to minimize his saw sets. This also let me see that one board was enough material.)
His table saw is about 8' square so support rollers are not needed.
That just left me to rout the baffles (using a Jasper router jig) and cut biscuits (Porter Cable,) clamp and glue, and cut the cup (connection) holes. On the first build, I used a drill press (and air hose to keep the dust out of the kerf) to make the braces.
Build 1:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1931365576772.108597.1621248869&type=1&l=448c6a3d89
1. router (Sears) $40
2. biscuit (plate) joiner (Porter Cable is better than Dewalt) ($180
3. hole saws (2" and 4") $40
4. clamps (the more the better) $20 each x 6 minimum
5. jigsaw (B & D from Walmart) $45
6. Jasper router jig $34
7. cordless drill and bits $35
8. wired Porter Cable 5" sander (Lowes $45)
These speakers compare easily with medium size Vienna Acoustics (using similar drivers) and the material investment was less than USD 700. The bass output of the 180mm woofer is unbelievable.
P
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If you've ever looked at an 18th century highboy you will realize that virtually any woodworking project can be done with quality handsaws, handplanes, chisels, brace & bit, scrapers and lots of talent and practice. Those last two items take a long time to acquire. In modern woodworking we substitute power tools with fences, jigs and scales to replace some of the hard earned hand tool skills. For me the list of essentials is:
1. 10" Tablesaw (at least a good contractors model with honest 1 1/2 HP TEFC motor)
2. Either pay for quality lumber squared and dressed to dimension or a 6" jointer and 12" to 13" planer to DIY, once you have it the jointer is great for fitting parts with fine cuts
3. Quality 1/2" capacity router (PC690 or equvalent)...a plunge base and a good router table makes this tool much more versatile
4. High quality router bits - don't start with a cheapo set, buy each one as you need it and get good ones
5. Biscuit joiner - this both adds great strength and helps align and hold pieces in alignment as you clamp
6. Drill press - if you have room a floor model with at least 1/2 HP motor and 1/2" chuck
7. One good handplane for fitting and tuning...I'd go with a block plane (wooden ECE Primus adjustable block plane is my favorite)
8. Good clamps - Bessey K Body can't be beat
9. Variable speed 5" to 6" orbital sander - Dewalt or PC
Of course there's lots more, but these are a good start.
1. 10" Tablesaw (at least a good contractors model with honest 1 1/2 HP TEFC motor)
2. Either pay for quality lumber squared and dressed to dimension or a 6" jointer and 12" to 13" planer to DIY, once you have it the jointer is great for fitting parts with fine cuts
3. Quality 1/2" capacity router (PC690 or equvalent)...a plunge base and a good router table makes this tool much more versatile
4. High quality router bits - don't start with a cheapo set, buy each one as you need it and get good ones
5. Biscuit joiner - this both adds great strength and helps align and hold pieces in alignment as you clamp
6. Drill press - if you have room a floor model with at least 1/2 HP motor and 1/2" chuck
7. One good handplane for fitting and tuning...I'd go with a block plane (wooden ECE Primus adjustable block plane is my favorite)
8. Good clamps - Bessey K Body can't be beat
9. Variable speed 5" to 6" orbital sander - Dewalt or PC
Of course there's lots more, but these are a good start.
I get away with poor woodworking skills by finishing in thin carpet.
It covers a multitude of sins and is a cheap method.
For my speaker boxes I buy half a meter of thin carpet and staple it on neatly.
I mkae sure it is cut dead straight at the shop so I have at least one straight edge to work from.
It covers a multitude of sins and is a cheap method.
For my speaker boxes I buy half a meter of thin carpet and staple it on neatly.
I mkae sure it is cut dead straight at the shop so I have at least one straight edge to work from.
I've got enough power tools to run a commercial shop, but you don't need them all. You already have the basics. Others (particularly beginners) may be interested in this thread, don't think I am telling you how to suck eggs.....
I will assume to start with, you will be using materials to which to will be added a finish, (paint or veneer) later. I recommend your first cabinets are like this, as using prefinished materials takes a lot more care and planning, and practise first is a good idea.
For good cabinet work you can get away with three simple power tools, and a few accessories,:-
1) A reasonably good quality skillsaw, but with a high quality fine tooth blade. (The other power tools and accessories can be cheapies or second hand, but I recommend a good skillsaw. A small one, (eg 5 inch) is easier to use for cabinet work, but for general purpose use a 7 1/4 or 8 inch is more versatile).
2) Three of four C-clamps with a six inch screw opening or bigger. Ideally if you can get two with a deep throat ( ie from clamp screw to support back) so it can extend deeper into the work, do so.
3) A long length (2.4 metres) of square section aluminium 25mmx 50mm or thereabout
4) A decent stainless steel ruler, (not a tape) at least 500mm long, and a fine-point pencil.
5) Three or four sawhorses or similar supports.
By clamping the Al as a guide to the sheet you are cutting,(lengthwise, supported by the sawhorses, (which are moved as required to avoid being cut), and with the saw set for full depth, you can long straight boards. The fine blade means you don't need to plane. Offset the guide as required by the baseplate dimension of your skillsaw. All that is required is care in setting up, and patience when cutting to ensure the saw is always against the guide.
6) A short length (say 600mm) of Al angle say 25mm x 25mm x3mm or similar whatever you can acquire cheaply
7) A builders square, The flat type with 400 t0 500mm long arms.
Now you can cut your board at right angles using the same guide system as above.
8) Jigsaw, to cut round holes for speaker etc. To inset the speaker use two layers of wood, with one large hole, the other smaller hole. This last hole can be chamfered by angling the jigsaw blade and by smoothing by any means including coarse sandpaper
9) Small power drill, (10mm chuck), to drill holes for fastenings, (brads, screws) and to use as a power screwdriver. Can also be used with a spade bit to make a starter hole for the jigsaw. A cheap battery model is fine, but power ones are often cheaper and don't need recharging!.
10) Small offcuts of the sheet material, cut square to ensure the cabinet side are held square during construction.
Assuming you are using unfinished material such as MDF or ply which you will veneer or paint later, you can now assemble the box, using simple butt joints with brads and glue, or if you wish screws, drilling as required, using the offcuts as temporary support. Punch or set fastenings below the surface, and fill holes with builders bog.
11) Use elbow grease to sand before finishing.
If you now are serious about prefinished materials, the above tools still hold good, but now it helps to add a good quality bench saw, a router, and preferably an orbital sander, in that order. A biscuit jointer is also desirable but not essential. A bench saw can replace it to make slot joints.These will allow you to cut the more complicated joints, such as angled butt supported with internal fillets. High quality blades and bits are essential.
As you can see, the more expensive power tools such as a bench saw, drop saw, planer, biscuit jointer, drill press etc (all of which I have, and often more than one of each) are not needed to start with, Or even ever. Sure, they can be very helpful and make certain tasks quicker and easier, and more complex joints possible, but before getting any of these, you need to develop certain skills, including the ability to cut straight. I can make all the cabinets (including those with pre-finished materials) that I have ever needed using only the simple tools.
I will assume to start with, you will be using materials to which to will be added a finish, (paint or veneer) later. I recommend your first cabinets are like this, as using prefinished materials takes a lot more care and planning, and practise first is a good idea.
For good cabinet work you can get away with three simple power tools, and a few accessories,:-
1) A reasonably good quality skillsaw, but with a high quality fine tooth blade. (The other power tools and accessories can be cheapies or second hand, but I recommend a good skillsaw. A small one, (eg 5 inch) is easier to use for cabinet work, but for general purpose use a 7 1/4 or 8 inch is more versatile).
2) Three of four C-clamps with a six inch screw opening or bigger. Ideally if you can get two with a deep throat ( ie from clamp screw to support back) so it can extend deeper into the work, do so.
3) A long length (2.4 metres) of square section aluminium 25mmx 50mm or thereabout
4) A decent stainless steel ruler, (not a tape) at least 500mm long, and a fine-point pencil.
5) Three or four sawhorses or similar supports.
By clamping the Al as a guide to the sheet you are cutting,(lengthwise, supported by the sawhorses, (which are moved as required to avoid being cut), and with the saw set for full depth, you can long straight boards. The fine blade means you don't need to plane. Offset the guide as required by the baseplate dimension of your skillsaw. All that is required is care in setting up, and patience when cutting to ensure the saw is always against the guide.
6) A short length (say 600mm) of Al angle say 25mm x 25mm x3mm or similar whatever you can acquire cheaply
7) A builders square, The flat type with 400 t0 500mm long arms.
Now you can cut your board at right angles using the same guide system as above.
8) Jigsaw, to cut round holes for speaker etc. To inset the speaker use two layers of wood, with one large hole, the other smaller hole. This last hole can be chamfered by angling the jigsaw blade and by smoothing by any means including coarse sandpaper
9) Small power drill, (10mm chuck), to drill holes for fastenings, (brads, screws) and to use as a power screwdriver. Can also be used with a spade bit to make a starter hole for the jigsaw. A cheap battery model is fine, but power ones are often cheaper and don't need recharging!.
10) Small offcuts of the sheet material, cut square to ensure the cabinet side are held square during construction.
Assuming you are using unfinished material such as MDF or ply which you will veneer or paint later, you can now assemble the box, using simple butt joints with brads and glue, or if you wish screws, drilling as required, using the offcuts as temporary support. Punch or set fastenings below the surface, and fill holes with builders bog.
11) Use elbow grease to sand before finishing.
If you now are serious about prefinished materials, the above tools still hold good, but now it helps to add a good quality bench saw, a router, and preferably an orbital sander, in that order. A biscuit jointer is also desirable but not essential. A bench saw can replace it to make slot joints.These will allow you to cut the more complicated joints, such as angled butt supported with internal fillets. High quality blades and bits are essential.
As you can see, the more expensive power tools such as a bench saw, drop saw, planer, biscuit jointer, drill press etc (all of which I have, and often more than one of each) are not needed to start with, Or even ever. Sure, they can be very helpful and make certain tasks quicker and easier, and more complex joints possible, but before getting any of these, you need to develop certain skills, including the ability to cut straight. I can make all the cabinets (including those with pre-finished materials) that I have ever needed using only the simple tools.
If I had to absolutely minimize the amount of tools I use to build a cabinet it would boil down to a properly set up table saw with in and out feed support, a router, clamps and good glue. I have built some tough, tricky, compound angled walled cabinets with those tools.
Most of my disappointments and frustrations were caused by inexperience, ignorance and lack of patience, I now have a little experience, a lot of patience and almost enough knowledge and I'm smiling every time I complete a project.
If you're new to cabinet building pick up a few books from your public library on the subject. If you decide to stick with cabinet making, you will have a good idea which books will be invaluable to your shop library, then you can choose to purchase them. Reading almost equals actual experience especially if you take time to really soak in what is being said. I like to stop and imagine performing the task as I read it's description when learning a new technique, I then practice on scrap. When I started I thought everything about woodwork and associated machines was 'common' sense, until I started reading what the pros have to share. Even proper body position makes a huge difference.
My wood working epiphany was the understanding that I need to make one perfect operation at a time not a complete cabinet. Each pencil mark, every cut, every blade adjustment needs to a separate, complete and well thought out task. Soon, that perfection becomes very enjoyable... huge payouts in satisfaction at the end. Also, every correcting for a bad cut or hurried layout takes much more time than doing it right the first time.
... and learn to enjoy f'ing up. You'll go crazy if you don't.
Most of my disappointments and frustrations were caused by inexperience, ignorance and lack of patience, I now have a little experience, a lot of patience and almost enough knowledge and I'm smiling every time I complete a project.
If you're new to cabinet building pick up a few books from your public library on the subject. If you decide to stick with cabinet making, you will have a good idea which books will be invaluable to your shop library, then you can choose to purchase them. Reading almost equals actual experience especially if you take time to really soak in what is being said. I like to stop and imagine performing the task as I read it's description when learning a new technique, I then practice on scrap. When I started I thought everything about woodwork and associated machines was 'common' sense, until I started reading what the pros have to share. Even proper body position makes a huge difference.
My wood working epiphany was the understanding that I need to make one perfect operation at a time not a complete cabinet. Each pencil mark, every cut, every blade adjustment needs to a separate, complete and well thought out task. Soon, that perfection becomes very enjoyable... huge payouts in satisfaction at the end. Also, every correcting for a bad cut or hurried layout takes much more time than doing it right the first time.
... and learn to enjoy f'ing up. You'll go crazy if you don't.
Eurekazone ripsizer, smart table, square, and a circular saw. I have the ripsizer and smart table and the system cuts true and is compact, inexpensive, and safe.
I'm not sure why you'd set the saw to full depth, can you explain?
I would add that a 4x8 sheet of material is too floppy to be only supported by saw horses. The sheet needs to be supported for it's entire length in order to get a good long and straight cut. So, I use 2x4's under the big sheet, and clamp them to it, to make the big sheet stiffer. I also use a marking knife instead of a pencil, and I use small right angle marking as well.
I just bought one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TXSAHU
and I really like it. I was using a more simple product that is 2 four foot long pieces of aluminum that screw together to make an eight foot straight edge, but this new straight edge clamp is better.
I don't have a table saw, since my shop is way too small for one. I have a good circular saw that has been trued up instead, as well as a good chop saw (power miter saw) for smaller things.
Also, if you cut veneer ply, then it should be cut upside down to minimize chipping at the cut line.
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I assume by "pre-finished" you mean what we call veneer plywood? (it has the nice veneer on it already)
If so, I've found that an orbital sander is way overkill. The veneer is so thin and already sanded smooth so only something like 400 grit is needed, which can be easily block sanded.
I use a biscuits and pocket hole screws for most joints in sheet materials now.
Apparently, you can buy pre-finished veneer plywood which means that it already has polyurethane on it. Just cut it and assemble.
Here's what I do when cutting plywood with a hand-held circular saw: I put a sacrificial sheet of 3/4" low-grade plywood on a pair of sawhorses. I then lay the plywood to be cut on top of that. I set the depth of cut to just over 1.5" (assuming I'm cutting 3/4" ply and I'm using my home-made edge guide). This way I don't worry about support. I use a cutting guide I made myself consisting of a piece of 5" wide 3/4" plywood with a straight piece of 3/4"-thick wood about 1" wide screwed to the top of it along one edge (which acts as a fence). to finish the guide, mount the saw blade that you will be using, clamp down the edge guide with the edge hanging in space, put the wide half of the saw base up against the fence and run the saw the length of the guide. This will trim the edge guide perfectly for your saw. Now when you want to make a cut, you can then mark your cut line exactly in place, align the edge of the guide against the line, clamp and cut. I made two edge guides, one that is 4' long and one 8' long. All you need are a pair of clamps and this will give excellent results.
I second the recommendation of pocket-hole screws. These things are game-changing. Since using them, my biscuit joiner is gathering dust.
Here's what I do when cutting plywood with a hand-held circular saw: I put a sacrificial sheet of 3/4" low-grade plywood on a pair of sawhorses. I then lay the plywood to be cut on top of that. I set the depth of cut to just over 1.5" (assuming I'm cutting 3/4" ply and I'm using my home-made edge guide). This way I don't worry about support. I use a cutting guide I made myself consisting of a piece of 5" wide 3/4" plywood with a straight piece of 3/4"-thick wood about 1" wide screwed to the top of it along one edge (which acts as a fence). to finish the guide, mount the saw blade that you will be using, clamp down the edge guide with the edge hanging in space, put the wide half of the saw base up against the fence and run the saw the length of the guide. This will trim the edge guide perfectly for your saw. Now when you want to make a cut, you can then mark your cut line exactly in place, align the edge of the guide against the line, clamp and cut. I made two edge guides, one that is 4' long and one 8' long. All you need are a pair of clamps and this will give excellent results.
I second the recommendation of pocket-hole screws. These things are game-changing. Since using them, my biscuit joiner is gathering dust.
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Re Dirkwright comments:-
1) A saw set full depth tends to make a straighter cut and is easier to hold against the guide I use. Other than that, bunkie's method would work just as well as mine, but requires a bit of careful work to make the guides. Two guides, one long and one short are definitely required.
2) I tend to use thicker sheets, 20mm which on 4 horses set lengthways towards the centre of the sheet are flat enough. The Al guide and clamps hold the ends flat.
For thin sheets I add 4x2 "beams" under the sheets.
3) Here the veneered sheet is usually mdf, the fancy plys which I prefer to use have a thick enough finish layer and require final sanding. On the veneered mdf, the orbital sander is used with very fine grit or with a sheepskin cover as a polisher. Younger people with more energy than me don't need it. However its a versatile tool which I mainly use on ply or solid wood, rather than veneered material.
4) The boxes I make are generally too complex to use pre-polyuethaned material.
5) A drop-saw is very useful, but to get a good one that big enough is quite expensive. I often use mine to cut aluminium for cases etc.
6) I must admit I've only used pocket screws to fasten down table or bench tops. I must think about them again.
7) The original question was regarding the minimum tools required, without having much skill. I think we all have answered that. I started, possibly like Andrew, with just a hand-saw and chisel, butpower tools are now so cheap, and make a much better job, so its worth gradually acquiring them. A friend first buys cheap tools, decides what are useful, then throws them away and buys quality. Hopefully this thread makes that step un-necessary, as quality tools are a good investment.
1) A saw set full depth tends to make a straighter cut and is easier to hold against the guide I use. Other than that, bunkie's method would work just as well as mine, but requires a bit of careful work to make the guides. Two guides, one long and one short are definitely required.
2) I tend to use thicker sheets, 20mm which on 4 horses set lengthways towards the centre of the sheet are flat enough. The Al guide and clamps hold the ends flat.
For thin sheets I add 4x2 "beams" under the sheets.
3) Here the veneered sheet is usually mdf, the fancy plys which I prefer to use have a thick enough finish layer and require final sanding. On the veneered mdf, the orbital sander is used with very fine grit or with a sheepskin cover as a polisher. Younger people with more energy than me don't need it. However its a versatile tool which I mainly use on ply or solid wood, rather than veneered material.
4) The boxes I make are generally too complex to use pre-polyuethaned material.
5) A drop-saw is very useful, but to get a good one that big enough is quite expensive. I often use mine to cut aluminium for cases etc.
6) I must admit I've only used pocket screws to fasten down table or bench tops. I must think about them again.
7) The original question was regarding the minimum tools required, without having much skill. I think we all have answered that. I started, possibly like Andrew, with just a hand-saw and chisel, butpower tools are now so cheap, and make a much better job, so its worth gradually acquiring them. A friend first buys cheap tools, decides what are useful, then throws them away and buys quality. Hopefully this thread makes that step un-necessary, as quality tools are a good investment.
I can't actually remember, being far too long ago, but I suspect it was a well worn hammer with a loose handle and a few bent nails borrowed from the tool/garden shed.
I probably have about 10 hammers of my own, of various shapes and sizes. I know a couple of them are quite expensive.
Similarly I have 7 multimeters (3 analogue and 4 digital) of various qualities , only one of which is expensive but I bought that used & in good condition through Ebay.
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It is amazing what can be built with just a few tools and skill. A guy built a set of Lynn Olsen Arials' , a very complicated transmission line speaker with strictly hand tools. All the rabbeting done with chisels. It was a beautiful thing but I would have never had the patience .
Bill
Bill
People who are proud of what they don't know are almost as insufferable as people who don't welcome current techniques.
I applaud his strictly hand, but this diy not do it forever.
Assuming butt joints are sufficiently fine. Although I'm sure more complex joints could be done this way.
A router with a straight 1/4" bit ($35 pawn shop B&D professional (like the DeWalt but black), carbide Freud bit cost nearly as much).
DIY extended router base; I made one from thick clear plexi.
Electric drill with "screwdigger" bit that drills and countersinks.
Any sufficiently sharp saw (vintage yard-sale Skilsaw with new carbide blade).
A straightedge; the factory edge of a sheet of MDF may do, or use shelving.
Quick clamps.
A homemade circle jig (1/4" ply, #10 T-nut with washer and bolt that slides in a slot; got the idea from Speaker Builder magazine.
1/4" flush trimming bit is extremely useful but not essential.
1/4" rounding bit is a nice for edges and driver recesses, ports, etc. But not essential.
The trick is to cut panels oversize with a skilsaw or whatever. Then clamp the guide to the piece and trim the edge with the router. Only use these "perfect" edges for "inside" edges of the box. Leave the panels that will be screwed/glued to these slightly oversize, then trim them flush after attaching them. Obviously the flush trimmer bit is preferred, but a regular 1/4" bit can be used by raising the router on a scrap of MDF and carefully adjusting the depth. I wouldn't attempt this without the extended router base.
I filled the screw holes with 1/4" dowel or store-bought plugs, then used the same methods to trim them flush.
I'm not saying the result is fine cabinetry, but they don't need to be carpeted or covered in bedliner. And people may be surprised when you tell them you made the box yourself.
You can also make cabinets using only a jigsaw and a screwdriver. And plastic wood and RTV. There's nothing fine about the results.
A router with a straight 1/4" bit ($35 pawn shop B&D professional (like the DeWalt but black), carbide Freud bit cost nearly as much).
DIY extended router base; I made one from thick clear plexi.
Electric drill with "screwdigger" bit that drills and countersinks.
Any sufficiently sharp saw (vintage yard-sale Skilsaw with new carbide blade).
A straightedge; the factory edge of a sheet of MDF may do, or use shelving.
Quick clamps.
A homemade circle jig (1/4" ply, #10 T-nut with washer and bolt that slides in a slot; got the idea from Speaker Builder magazine.
1/4" flush trimming bit is extremely useful but not essential.
1/4" rounding bit is a nice for edges and driver recesses, ports, etc. But not essential.
The trick is to cut panels oversize with a skilsaw or whatever. Then clamp the guide to the piece and trim the edge with the router. Only use these "perfect" edges for "inside" edges of the box. Leave the panels that will be screwed/glued to these slightly oversize, then trim them flush after attaching them. Obviously the flush trimmer bit is preferred, but a regular 1/4" bit can be used by raising the router on a scrap of MDF and carefully adjusting the depth. I wouldn't attempt this without the extended router base.
I filled the screw holes with 1/4" dowel or store-bought plugs, then used the same methods to trim them flush.
I'm not saying the result is fine cabinetry, but they don't need to be carpeted or covered in bedliner. And people may be surprised when you tell them you made the box yourself.
You can also make cabinets using only a jigsaw and a screwdriver. And plastic wood and RTV. There's nothing fine about the results.
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