And for tweeter: Seas 27TFF
For a "2-way" I'd use the Scan Speak Discovery 10F/4424G00 (or its 8 ohm version) for a "tweeter"..
http://www.zaphaudio.com/temp/Scan-Speak-10F-4424G00-FR.gif
http://www.zaphaudio.com/temp/Scan-Speak-10F-4424G00-FR-offaxis-0-15-30-45-60.gif
http://www.zaphaudio.com/temp/Scan-Speak-10F-4424G00-CSD.gif
http://www.zaphaudio.com/temp/Scan-Speak-10F-4424G00-HD.gif
..and then design around that.
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Well, it costs approx. 80 Euro.
Yes.. but it can save you more in crossover parts cost (..a LOT more).
(..and make for an easier design as well as the option for a MUCH lower freq. response - depending on the woofer.)
Good point to considerer. Better to spend 40.00+ of driver parts than of better caps or extra components. Valid consideration, Starre if you think it will sound better.
Working with a 4" Midrange as a tweeter certainly will not be the standard. But who knows what can be done.
Is your listening room narrow or large?
Working with a 4" Midrange as a tweeter certainly will not be the standard. But who knows what can be done.
Is your listening room narrow or large?
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To use sealed enclosure make sure to use an adequate driver... (who knows?).Interesting PeteMcK, I think the same, good value and easy to work with. Not decided if using sealed or BR box though...
Sealed or Ported Enclosure Calculator
Driver good for BR (SEAS CA18RLY nice in 32 L to 42 L) and quarter wave.
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Going by an online calculator, the CA18RLY will work well in a 25ltr box (QTC = 0.7) with an f3 of 63Hz.
Someone over a the PE forum said that their old AR18 has an f3 of 62Hz but because of the high'ish Q design (QTC = 1 IIRC), they had a steep roll-off. I owned some AR18s a while back and thought the bass was really good, so the CA18RLY in a 25ltr box should be better (more accurate and go a bit deeper) but have less authority being a smaller driver.
IIRC the Seas 27TFF (or was it the 25TFF?) was used in the Proac Studio 100. I used to own those speakers and I thought they had a nice, crisp and clean treble.
With the crossover done right, I think that could make a nice combination.
Someone over a the PE forum said that their old AR18 has an f3 of 62Hz but because of the high'ish Q design (QTC = 1 IIRC), they had a steep roll-off. I owned some AR18s a while back and thought the bass was really good, so the CA18RLY in a 25ltr box should be better (more accurate and go a bit deeper) but have less authority being a smaller driver.
IIRC the Seas 27TFF (or was it the 25TFF?) was used in the Proac Studio 100. I used to own those speakers and I thought they had a nice, crisp and clean treble.
With the crossover done right, I think that could make a nice combination.
I had a feeling Troels Gravesen had used this bass unit in one of his designs, which here uses a SEAS metal tweeter which is not to everyone's taste:
CA18RLY/22TAF-G
The SEAS 27 TFF is the simplest high end tweeter SEAS do. Like the TFFC but no back chamber, hence a couple of dB less sensitivity. Should be a doddle to slot into any of Troel's typical third order filters for the 27 TFFC with a resistance adjustment.
Third order filters usually have capacitors in the ratio of 1:3. Where they are heavily attenuated by a resistor at the input, the capacitor values become more similar and the inductor gets smaller.
CA18RLY/22TAF-G
The SEAS 27 TFF is the simplest high end tweeter SEAS do. Like the TFFC but no back chamber, hence a couple of dB less sensitivity. Should be a doddle to slot into any of Troel's typical third order filters for the 27 TFFC with a resistance adjustment.
Third order filters usually have capacitors in the ratio of 1:3. Where they are heavily attenuated by a resistor at the input, the capacitor values become more similar and the inductor gets smaller.
The CALCULATOR is maybe in the limit. I gave you this one but use others as well and test before a final decision. You can do an interchangeable small panel with the port (BR vs. sealed) and the speaker posts into the back panel.Inductor: I used that calculator for CA18RLY and it said it was fine either way. Do you think the crossover for CA18RLY and 27TFF need to be complicated/expensive?
The drivers look nice for a not very expensive crossover. But as all the initial designs, made by you, with the extra costs and time of testing, you will buy different parts/components to test different values and then calibrate. That's not cheap if you consider added shipping charges for duplicates (components of different values). But I will not considerer a big difference or expensive if you need, say as an example, a 3. order for the tweeter instead of a second order (one more cap). Only when you have complex drivers/crossovers out of the ordinary. Your drivers look great to start with. Are you going to measure them or using the frd/zma's for the crossover?
To look at, someone is using here an example of 2. order crossover with TFFC and Focal with that tweeter. H0831-06 27TFF
DIY Granite Speakers with Seas G17REX/P and 27 TFFC Drivers
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1055&t=29957680
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I will probably start with listening to the raw drivers on a big open baffle and get a microphone measuring them. Later on trying with a test box sealed vs reflex. I have no more planning than that so far. Now I am just pleased I have selected drivers and beeing on my way with it.
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