Wixy, if you can cut a dead straight line with your skills and equipment, you should be able to glue all joints.
As to the porosity of MDF, the cut surface exposes a sponge. The finished surface is more like a glossy cardboard, and does not soak up the glue or primer as well as real timber.
As to the porosity of MDF, the cut surface exposes a sponge. The finished surface is more like a glossy cardboard, and does not soak up the glue or primer as well as real timber.
It may not soak up the glue as well as real timber, but it's certainly strong enough even with PVA and handheld circular saw cut panels. As I have seen proven by an unsecured box being rolled around in the boot of a car during an 85mph accident.
Tightbond III - bonds/sets quickly - I've had great success with it. Wood screws after is has set to a good bond but not fully cured.
Hey Wixy, you're not from this neck of the woods by chance. Used to have drink or two with a bloke with the same nick-name. Raised overlooking the Wilson River.
Geoff.
Geoff.
Hi
If these are your first cabinets then I suggest you make them as rigid as reasonably possible. I find the easiest way is to install a brace between the front and back panels as close to the centre of each panel as possible. ( and if you can add a second brace between the two side panels ) It really reduces panel vibration.
Don
If these are your first cabinets then I suggest you make them as rigid as reasonably possible. I find the easiest way is to install a brace between the front and back panels as close to the centre of each panel as possible. ( and if you can add a second brace between the two side panels ) It really reduces panel vibration.
Don
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