Hi all,
Some drivers I have are in a bit of trouble. The surround which is stuck to the cone is beginning to come off. What kind of glue should I use to stick it? Will a synthetic rubber based adhesive do or should it be the Loctite super glue kind of thing?
Thanks and regards,
Vivek
Some drivers I have are in a bit of trouble. The surround which is stuck to the cone is beginning to come off. What kind of glue should I use to stick it? Will a synthetic rubber based adhesive do or should it be the Loctite super glue kind of thing?
Thanks and regards,
Vivek
use flexible glue - such as rubbur or silicone. Hard glue such as cyanoacrilates(superglue) will crack or the cone/surround at the edge of the glue will fail...
I recently discovered a two-part flexible polyurethane adhesive that comes in little tubes like epoxy. It seems to stick to anything and remains flexible after curing, which takes about half an hour to set up. Not an exotic product, I got it at the hardware store.
I haven't used it to repair speakers, but it is what I'd reach for if I had to.
--Buckapound
I haven't used it to repair speakers, but it is what I'd reach for if I had to.
--Buckapound
Like I said, I have rubber-based adhesive with me. I could use that or I could even get Araldite. Which is better?
Vivek
Vivek
Part Express, and I suspect other speaker sellers like Madisound, sell glue specifically for gluing speakers. It appears to be white glue so I can't guarantee that it is not repackaged carpenter's glue. But none the less, it is the glue they include in the speaker surround and dust cap repair kits.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=340-076
I'm sure that other places that specialize in replacement surrounds, replacement dust cap, and re-coning also have specialized glue available for speakers. It's just a matter of searching it out.
Steve/bluewizard
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=340-076
I'm sure that other places that specialize in replacement surrounds, replacement dust cap, and re-coning also have specialized glue available for speakers. It's just a matter of searching it out.
Steve/bluewizard
White glue is very brittle(elmer's). Carpenter's glue (yellow) is a bit more flexible and a LOT stronger. Easy to deal with.
Neither will stick to rubber - urethane will. If it touches surround I'd be careful not to impede suspension.
Neither will stick to rubber - urethane will. If it touches surround I'd be careful not to impede suspension.
I have used the speaker specialty glues mentioned above ( Madisound & P.E. ), and inspected the Material Sheet and they appear to be indistinguishable from the flexible soft glues I mentioned earlier ( Aleene's etc ).
In the situation of Vivek: I would use the rubber adhesive if that were my only options.
I repaired the butyl rubber surrounds on Vifa 8" drivers using Silicone sealants meant for glass.
Pittsburgh Corning makes a compound for glass block.
Auto Glass repair shops use a thin viscosity silicone sealant ( for windshields ), that also has worked.
In the situation of Vivek: I would use the rubber adhesive if that were my only options.
I repaired the butyl rubber surrounds on Vifa 8" drivers using Silicone sealants meant for glass.
Pittsburgh Corning makes a compound for glass block.
Auto Glass repair shops use a thin viscosity silicone sealant ( for windshields ), that also has worked.
This is the stuff that was included in a speaker repair kit (new surrounds) I purchased last year...
http://www.discountschoolsupply.com/product/productdetail.aspx?product=23432&es=10190200000
It adhered perfectly to both the foam surround and the poly cones of a pair of Paradigm Titans..still playing strong a year later.
http://www.discountschoolsupply.com/product/productdetail.aspx?product=23432&es=10190200000
It adhered perfectly to both the foam surround and the poly cones of a pair of Paradigm Titans..still playing strong a year later.
Aleene's 'Tacky' glue appears to be a fabric glue and could probably be purchased at the local fabric or Hobby/Craft store. It is certainly cheap enough, and I suspect that, to some extent, it is water soluble. Can you confirm that? ...water clean up?
As to using Silicone, my experience with silicone caulking is that it is a mess. You have to place it exactly where you want it, any overflow or expansion beyond where you want it, is a mess to clean up. So, if you are careful and precise, then good, but I suspect it is not forgiving of mistakes.
Though, you would have to be extremely careful around cones and domes, I would think any unwanted mess created by a water soluble glue could be touched up with a damp cloth.
I've seen this Aleene's glue recommended in other thread, so I think it is a common consensus that it can safely be used on speakers.
http://www.duncancrafts.com/aleenes/
Just a few thoughts.
Steve/bluewizard
As to using Silicone, my experience with silicone caulking is that it is a mess. You have to place it exactly where you want it, any overflow or expansion beyond where you want it, is a mess to clean up. So, if you are careful and precise, then good, but I suspect it is not forgiving of mistakes.
Though, you would have to be extremely careful around cones and domes, I would think any unwanted mess created by a water soluble glue could be touched up with a damp cloth.
I've seen this Aleene's glue recommended in other thread, so I think it is a common consensus that it can safely be used on speakers.
http://www.duncancrafts.com/aleenes/
Just a few thoughts.
Steve/bluewizard
It is water cleanup.
( Aleene's and Rosco Flexbond are staples for making stage props and set work ).
Silicone is more messy, but I use very very little, applied with a toothpick, or pin vise.
For a rubber surround, I fabricate a plastic scraper that is a "negative" form of the semi-circular surround.
( Aleene's and Rosco Flexbond are staples for making stage props and set work ).
Silicone is more messy, but I use very very little, applied with a toothpick, or pin vise.
For a rubber surround, I fabricate a plastic scraper that is a "negative" form of the semi-circular surround.
Hi, Please check out this link http://www.pidilite.com/productinner.asp?cat=Consumer Products&subcat=1&subcat1=60&subcat2=171
Clicking on the picture gives more info on the product.
This is a commonly-used rubber-based adhesive for speaker repair in India. This should do I suppose.
Also, if I try to put the adhesive directly from the tube to the cone, the whole thing gets messy with excess glue. What should I do?
Vivek
Clicking on the picture gives more info on the product.
This is a commonly-used rubber-based adhesive for speaker repair in India. This should do I suppose.
Also, if I try to put the adhesive directly from the tube to the cone, the whole thing gets messy with excess glue. What should I do?
Vivek
The way rubber-based adhesive such as this is supposed to be used is as follows (and also illustrates why it is not easy to use for speaker cones). You apply a thin layer to both mating surfaces, wait 15 minutes till they dry, THEN touch the surfaces and they will instantly bond. You cannot reposition after that!Vivek said:
A better solution is to use silicone gel - the "neutral cure" types, not the "acetic cure" types. They will dry to a rubbery elastic form, and the neutral cure will not corrode copper etc.
-Ram
Hi,
I was reading up the Loctite website where it says they have cyanoacrylate adhesives particularly for such speaker use.
I was reading up the Loctite website where it says they have cyanoacrylate adhesives particularly for such speaker use.
I use latex for surrounds (rubber)
Contact adhesive for surround & spider to frame (can be dissolved later, more flex than epoxy, so I imagine less stress on the cloth when it moves at glueedge)
Question that brought me here is if it makes any difference what I use for centerdome?
My reconer uses contact adhesive or black epoxy, lots use expensive cyanoacrylate black, rubberised with activator.
An aging friend just use pva (wood glue, sticks very well on paper & wood)
Now I plan to just use epoxy for my pd.2150 dome (actually turbosound LS-2101), usually I never think much about it as everything seems to work, but this is the most expensive kit ever! 🙂
Contact adhesive for surround & spider to frame (can be dissolved later, more flex than epoxy, so I imagine less stress on the cloth when it moves at glueedge)
Question that brought me here is if it makes any difference what I use for centerdome?
My reconer uses contact adhesive or black epoxy, lots use expensive cyanoacrylate black, rubberised with activator.
An aging friend just use pva (wood glue, sticks very well on paper & wood)
Now I plan to just use epoxy for my pd.2150 dome (actually turbosound LS-2101), usually I never think much about it as everything seems to work, but this is the most expensive kit ever! 🙂
Ok, I found two good options for glue that I can buy🙂
Still the question stands: Anything wrong in just using the epoxy I have?
Still the question stands: Anything wrong in just using the epoxy I have?
A lot of people claim that Permanent Fabric Glue works well. It is flexible, but to withstand wearing and washing, it has to stick pretty tight.
Aleene's is commonly mentioned, but just about any permanent fabric glue should do -
https://www.amazon.com/Aleenes-Fabric-Fusion-Permanent-Adhesive/dp/B00178QSE6
Aleene's Fabric Fusion Permanent Adhesive | Jo-Ann
I believe Aleene has several types of glue, and this brand is very common, Walmart even has it in the craft section. Of the permanent glue, I am aware of two types. One is a white glue that look like Elmer's Carpenter's or School Glue, and the other type is a clear colorless Gel Glue.
If you go to a Fabric Store (or similar) you will see a wider variety of Fabric Glues, just make sure you get Permanent Glue. There are glues that are temporary. They are used to hold fabrics in place, and once sewn, the glue simply washes out.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=aleene's+fabric+glue&safe=off&tbm=shop
For what it is worth.
Steve/bluewizard
Aleene's is commonly mentioned, but just about any permanent fabric glue should do -
https://www.amazon.com/Aleenes-Fabric-Fusion-Permanent-Adhesive/dp/B00178QSE6
Aleene's Fabric Fusion Permanent Adhesive | Jo-Ann
I believe Aleene has several types of glue, and this brand is very common, Walmart even has it in the craft section. Of the permanent glue, I am aware of two types. One is a white glue that look like Elmer's Carpenter's or School Glue, and the other type is a clear colorless Gel Glue.
If you go to a Fabric Store (or similar) you will see a wider variety of Fabric Glues, just make sure you get Permanent Glue. There are glues that are temporary. They are used to hold fabrics in place, and once sewn, the glue simply washes out.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=aleene's+fabric+glue&safe=off&tbm=shop
For what it is worth.
Steve/bluewizard
If there is a special material present for rubber and cone like the speakers from attachment and the ones under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...m-harbeth-acoustics-swisstone-harwood.380330/
and from post #10 under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/chartwell-pm110-speakers-crossover-help.214838/
there are probably special rules to be observed again.
There should actually be an adhesive specially developed for this, which was also used in processing at the time.
Thanks for an advice.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...m-harbeth-acoustics-swisstone-harwood.380330/
and from post #10 under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/chartwell-pm110-speakers-crossover-help.214838/
there are probably special rules to be observed again.
There should actually be an adhesive specially developed for this, which was also used in processing at the time.
Thanks for an advice.