Listening to Rush Permanent Waves now.. I just love this album on LP.. hate it on CD -- sound quality is really bad on the lossless CD rip I have at least.
Learning the basics of turntable setup, and adding a basic cleaning regiment
to your LP listening, will pay dividend both now, and in the future, should you decide
to upgrade table/cartridge.
Phono stage will make a difference. I recently built a Bugle 2 configured
for MM and found it superior to Creek standalone phono preamp I had used.
At an outlay of about $100 USD, the Bugle 2 was quite the bargain. I imagine
the Salas will be a meaningful step up from that.
Cheers,
Dennis
to your LP listening, will pay dividend both now, and in the future, should you decide
to upgrade table/cartridge.
Phono stage will make a difference. I recently built a Bugle 2 configured
for MM and found it superior to Creek standalone phono preamp I had used.
At an outlay of about $100 USD, the Bugle 2 was quite the bargain. I imagine
the Salas will be a meaningful step up from that.
Cheers,
Dennis
Kinda sorta yeah...
The big improvements to the SL-1200 are;
Mat
Feet
PSU
Arm re-wire (needed only if it's a Mk2)
And you can do more crazy things like bearing and swapping the arm, but at that point get a SP-10 and never worry about getting another table for the rest of your life. 😀 (Says a guy with a Graham 2.2 on his SL-1200. ((and my SP-10...)) )
You could so some mods to your table;
Mats are easy (felt is awful, cork is great, the Funk Firm 'Acromat' is incredibly good)
Feet are easy (buy some Vibrapods and just rest the table on them)
and PSU is not difficult, as 90% of the improvement is just getting the transformer out of the chassis; get a small box for the transformer and remove it and mount remotely. Looking at the service manual there's a bit more you could do, but the transformer relocation is most of the improvement.
Rewiring the arm is a much more tricky proposition, as it's got all the auto return camwork underneath. And anyway, the reason for re-wiring the SL-1200mk2 arms is because the particular PVC on that wire interacts with the particular tin plating, and it likes to corrode. It's a known issue on some variants of the SL-1200, but not all. So your arm might not need it, being a different model.
As Dennis Hui says, basic setup will get you much improvement.
Having had both in my system, I can say that the Bugle 2 is genuinely excellent, a wonderful product, and can recommend without a moment's hesitation.
The Salas is probably the best I've ever heard.
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Wow those achromats are really expensive! I am using the rubber mat that comes with it right now.
I see so many vibrapods on Amazon. Mind giving me a link to which one I should buy? Do I rest them against the body of the turntable or sit the turntables feet on them?
As far as moving the transformer outside , I can do that. I've built a b1 buffer and lm3886 so that should be easy 🙂
Get the Model 2 Vibrapods. Place them under your TT flat side down and rest the table's feet on them. It's kinda scary how well it works.
Yes, the Acromat is $$. Try a cork mat, they are really good and there's a lot of choice on Amazon.
Yes, the Acromat is $$. Try a cork mat, they are really good and there's a lot of choice on Amazon.
Thanks. Should I get a turntable clamp? Or is bad for this particular turntable? I've never used them before.
One thing about Rega tt. Rega made for use in USA are with a different pulley for 60hz operation to spin at 33/45rpm. I hope the one you're looking at is suited for USA voltage and frequency. Its mostly the same matter for other vintage British made turntables. I also fully recommend tonearm rewire/recable for most Technics for a great sonic lift if you can get anyone to do it well there. I've done for SL1200 and it sings like never before. I used thin Litz wires. Other types like Cardas are also suitable as long it doesn't impede the horizontal lateral movement.
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Found a cool thread with SL-D2 mods. One suggestion is 3 o-rings on tone arm.. I need to try that.
Suggested mods/upgrades to Technics SL-D2 | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
EDIT: Thanks for the note about the Rega. I'll make sure to buy USA version if I get one.
Suggested mods/upgrades to Technics SL-D2 | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
EDIT: Thanks for the note about the Rega. I'll make sure to buy USA version if I get one.
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Trust me on the tonearm rewire (the internal at least, if the external is still good). Other than than that, IMHO, a thin flat leather mat on top of the existing rubber mat does some good too. I believe leather mats are easily available on Ebay. Try one if it doesn't cost too much. I've never looked back after using it on Rega, my VPI and others that I've experienced.
Thanks 🙂. Listening to Jim Croce LPs.. I highly recommend them ..Recorded very well and sounds amazing from vinyl. Don't Mess Around WIth Jim, Life and Times and I Got a Name.
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I like the idea of the receded cork mat. Too bad they are 3mm thick. The stock mat is 4mm thick (just measured with calipers). I see cork mats which are 4mm thick, however they are not receded in the center to accommodate the thickness of the label.
If I went with 3mm mat instead of 4mm, that would change the angle at which the needle touches the vinyl.
If I went with 3mm mat instead of 4mm, that would change the angle at which the needle touches the vinyl.
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You could add a thin spacer between headshell and cartridge to compensate. YMMV.
Also, get a round bubble level so you can get the table leveled. That’s an extremely important bit of TT setup.
I've got a 5mm Herbie's mat on my Sl-1200. Also use it on my LP12. It's a great mat, try one.
jeff
You can buy a replacement pulley of the correct diameter for REGA tt motors for under $20.
Also changing a resistor in the AC motor also corrects motor speed for different power line voltage and frequency. The motors themselves are universal voltage but are sold with the frequency-specific resistor installed, so there are two part #'s.
If the REGA uses the DC motor only the pulley needs replacing.
The final option is to use the motor speed controller which is a project here on DIYAudio. In that case no parts changes are necessary.
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Some people suggest against weights (as compared to clamps) but to be honest, I don't know of a single bearing failure due to a record weight. I have a friend who has been using a weight on his Denon AC DD table for nearly 40 years. Just as quiet as ever. The weight he uses is a Denon accessory. I think they would know.
With a Technics DC DD table, the platter is part of the motor. The bearing is quite robust.
Most OEM tables use a silicon carbide ball in oil type bearing. Silicon Carbide is amongst the hardest substances known to man; you can't crush a ball of it with roadmaking equipment (it will put a nice dent in the pavement, though). In fact it won't even show marks or scratches after such abuse. Many 'tables also use a silicon carbide insert in the platter itself where it meets the bearing.
I suspect the idea came about when someone began marketing clamps vs weights. It is not something I worry about.
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