So here's the deal. I promised the Misses that I would not buy any more speaker drivers for now. Luckely my parts bin is great enough to satisfy my DIY needs (I hope). So I started out planning a ported 2-way system.
Design goals: Loud and clear sound using only materials available. The only thing I will buy for this project are crossover parts.
I made 2 enclosures from leftover 18mm mdf. They are based on the Blastorama's from diysubwoofers.org
The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : The Chicken-Run Blastoramas
Mine are a little more narrow and taller. Internal volume is about 20-22L
I glued on a carpet to hide my woodworking crimes. I must admit these cabinets already look a lot better than I had hoped for.
I also have a 12" sub in the making to take care of the low end.
It is when I started designing the crossover when I started doubting myself.
I was wondering if anyone could take a look at the datasheets and shed some light on if these drivers are even capable of matching up properly. That is to say, without very obvious loss of detail around the crossover point.
And if so, what crossover point would be best.
I have considered making it into a 3way system with the tweeter mounted in a separate enclose on top. However my amplifier is not nearly powerful enough to make full use of that.
Design goals: Loud and clear sound using only materials available. The only thing I will buy for this project are crossover parts.
I made 2 enclosures from leftover 18mm mdf. They are based on the Blastorama's from diysubwoofers.org
The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : The Chicken-Run Blastoramas
Mine are a little more narrow and taller. Internal volume is about 20-22L
I glued on a carpet to hide my woodworking crimes. I must admit these cabinets already look a lot better than I had hoped for.
I also have a 12" sub in the making to take care of the low end.
It is when I started designing the crossover when I started doubting myself.
I was wondering if anyone could take a look at the datasheets and shed some light on if these drivers are even capable of matching up properly. That is to say, without very obvious loss of detail around the crossover point.
And if so, what crossover point would be best.
I have considered making it into a 3way system with the tweeter mounted in a separate enclose on top. However my amplifier is not nearly powerful enough to make full use of that.
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looks like the Tonsil starts breaking up ~ 1.5Khz, but the tweeter needs to be crossed over above ~2.5Khz - not a marriage made in heaven. Might get away with a 2Khz xover if you use steep filters
re"carpet to hide my woodworking crimes" - I just finished routing new cabs and got bad tearout on the cheap ply.... say a few swear words for me...
re"carpet to hide my woodworking crimes" - I just finished routing new cabs and got bad tearout on the cheap ply.... say a few swear words for me...
I played around with VituixCAD for a while last night. I must say, this program is very easy to use and intuitive. I think I've come up with a way to make this work. In reality there might be an unpredictable dip around 2k Hz, but we'll see. This is the Scrapinator project after all.
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