Since they are hard to find maybe some of those old faulty or for spares (or in the bin) might have some of these.
IIRC the Meridian 206, Arcam Alpha 5 and Naim CD3.
Any other ideas people.
IIRC the Meridian 206, Arcam Alpha 5 and Naim CD3.
Any other ideas people.
CD7
Yes.
More recently, the Marantz CD7.
It used the double-crown version.
I'm not shure, but I think the Arcam Alpha5/5+ had the TDA1547 (bitstream).
Yes.
More recently, the Marantz CD7.
It used the double-crown version.
I'm not shure, but I think the Arcam Alpha5/5+ had the TDA1547 (bitstream).
From:
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.pl?forum=tweaks&n=58399&highlight=cd960&r=&session=
Here you are:
Philips CD160,CD360,CD460,CD650,CD960,CD371,CD373,CD471,CD472,CD473,
CD207,CD782 (possibly branded 'Magnavox' in USA?)
Marantz CD56,CD65,CD40,CD50,CD60,CD80
Rotel RCD820
Sony CDP-750 (Believe it or not! although the 4x O/S circuit is different from the Philips setup)
Cambridge Audio CD3 (No less than 4 TDA1541's in this one!)
Proton AC300 II (This is a new one on me...I was lucky to pick one up this weekend at a carboot, full working order for £10 (US$15)...nice build and ripe for tweaking)
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.pl?forum=tweaks&n=58399&highlight=cd960&r=&session=
Here you are:
Philips CD160,CD360,CD460,CD650,CD960,CD371,CD373,CD471,CD472,CD473,
CD207,CD782 (possibly branded 'Magnavox' in USA?)
Marantz CD56,CD65,CD40,CD50,CD60,CD80
Rotel RCD820
Sony CDP-750 (Believe it or not! although the 4x O/S circuit is different from the Philips setup)
Cambridge Audio CD3 (No less than 4 TDA1541's in this one!)
Proton AC300 II (This is a new one on me...I was lucky to pick one up this weekend at a carboot, full working order for £10 (US$15)...nice build and ripe for tweaking)
And the Philips CD-880.
Some of these players have killer transports (CD-880, CD-960, Marantz CD-80 etc.). I wouldn't rip the chip out of them!!! Install new and good caps, new clock, some mechanical mods and a brand new output stage and you'll be fine...
(and the non-os mod of course ;-)
Fedde
Some of these players have killer transports (CD-880, CD-960, Marantz CD-80 etc.). I wouldn't rip the chip out of them!!! Install new and good caps, new clock, some mechanical mods and a brand new output stage and you'll be fine...
(and the non-os mod of course ;-)
Fedde
what are you planning
Lee
what have you on the board?
i have been doing the same as you in the 1541 hunt..🙂
had any luck? i have drawn a blank.
Lee
what have you on the board?
i have been doing the same as you in the 1541 hunt..🙂
had any luck? i have drawn a blank.
febbe
what about the laser and its possible replacement?
i have thought much the same and have looked at older naims with this in mine.
what about the laser and its possible replacement?
i have thought much the same and have looked at older naims with this in mine.
robbie said:febbe
Fedde ;-)
For some reason people tend to spell my name wrong. Freddie, Fredde etc... :-(
robbie said:
what about the laser and its possible replacement?
i have thought much the same and have looked at older naims with this in mine.
Good point. I forgot about that. The lasers are quite old and will need replacement within a few years (or months). Replacements are HARD to find. If anyone knows I replacement for my CDM-1 of the Philips CD-960 !? You could buy two players or rip out the dac and add a CS8412 receiver when the CD-P dies...
Fedde
The nice thing about an one-box playing solution is that you can feed the clock directly to the dac chip. So no crappy SP/DIF used...
And make a better supply with schottky's/fast recovery diodes. Maybe even an extra toroid, good quality bypass caps etc...
Fedde
And make a better supply with schottky's/fast recovery diodes. Maybe even an extra toroid, good quality bypass caps etc...
Fedde
Fedde
sorry about the miss spelling of your name..
i have had a look at this ,i have a meridan pro which i have thought about playing with,but merdian have said there are no more lasers so that came to an end ( didnt want to damage laser while playing and mess up the whole thing)
have you had any experiments with modding players?
i have scott nixons dac which i like alot,and am looking a gudio tents dac ,the idea being to fit them both into one unit.
sorry about the miss spelling of your name..
i have had a look at this ,i have a meridan pro which i have thought about playing with,but merdian have said there are no more lasers so that came to an end ( didnt want to damage laser while playing and mess up the whole thing)
have you had any experiments with modding players?
i have scott nixons dac which i like alot,and am looking a gudio tents dac ,the idea being to fit them both into one unit.
Dont forget there is an 1541 and there are 1541A's (normal,s1,s2)
So not all players are interesting. E.g. my cd650 has the 1541.
The A version is supposted to be better.
Greetings,
Guido
So not all players are interesting. E.g. my cd650 has the 1541.
The A version is supposted to be better.
Greetings,
Guido
I have an old 8x CD-ROM drive (1996) with a pair of them in it. More likely to get an old one of those for free. People throw them out mostly because they are not fast enough, not because they have stopped working.
If the CDrom is made in 1996 it will probably have TDA1543(A) and not TDA1541A.
Old Aristona, Erres and Magnavox cd-players had the chip as well. Sony CDP-M95 and CDP-950 have it. Old Arcams have it.
I wouldn't recommend the non os mod just like that. You will have to change the whole output circuitry when you do. Most don't do that and the endresults of removing SAA7220 will be disappointing after all. Better make an external non os DAC instead and let the player be 4 x Fs.
Decouple the SAA7220 very good. Preferably OSCON or the like. Stupid but effective mod: solder a solid core wire over the ground track on the main PCB !
Grounding is not the strongest point in old Philips players and soldering the wire will make a cheap and very effective mod...
Old Aristona, Erres and Magnavox cd-players had the chip as well. Sony CDP-M95 and CDP-950 have it. Old Arcams have it.
I wouldn't recommend the non os mod just like that. You will have to change the whole output circuitry when you do. Most don't do that and the endresults of removing SAA7220 will be disappointing after all. Better make an external non os DAC instead and let the player be 4 x Fs.
Decouple the SAA7220 very good. Preferably OSCON or the like. Stupid but effective mod: solder a solid core wire over the ground track on the main PCB !
Grounding is not the strongest point in old Philips players and soldering the wire will make a cheap and very effective mod...
Ah yes I should have said 1541A!
Still I have a CS8412 and fancied non os'ing something. I think I'll look for an old marantz and then play around.
Cheers Guys
Still I have a CS8412 and fancied non os'ing something. I think I'll look for an old marantz and then play around.
Cheers Guys
If you fancy non osing something TDA1543 will be OK for a start and it'll be cheaper, much easier to find and easier to build 😉
And it'll be very good !
And it'll be very good !
Here are some more:
Orelle CD100
Philips 465, 650
Revox B226 (1541AS1)
Rotel 855 (1541AS1)
Sudgen SDT-1 (1541AS1)
Orelle CD100
Philips 465, 650
Revox B226 (1541AS1)
Rotel 855 (1541AS1)
Sudgen SDT-1 (1541AS1)
I wouldn't recommend the non os mod just like that. You will have to change the whole output circuitry when you do. Most don't do that and the endresults of removing SAA7220 will be disappointing after all. Better make an external non os DAC instead and let the player be 4 x Fs.
Decouple the SAA7220 very good. Preferably OSCON or the like. Stupid but effective mod: solder a solid core wire over the ground track on the main PCB !
Grounding is not the strongest point in old Philips players and soldering the wire will make a cheap and very effective mod...
What is changed/should be changed to the output stage of a 1541A based player? The filters? How? Messing with a mission PCM II at the moment. Non os done and I think I like it apart from a certain hardness occasionall shrill sound in the highs on complex material.
Do you mean the ground track below the SAA7220? IE, you solder it on top of the track to create a chunkier mass of earth plane perhaps with lower resistance?
Thanks
G
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