If you have your heart set on a 10" then there is the Audio Nirvana Super 10 Ferrite (retails around $350 per pair). There is an alnico version at $995 per pair I think as well.
Common sense Audio have a number of designs from a fairly simple Bass Reflex but I think from memory they have some open baffle designs as well.
Audio Nirvana, Lowther, and Fostex Full Range DIY speaker kits and amplifiers. 3 inches to 15 inches. Vacuum tube amplifiers. The world's best sound at prices anyone can afford.
But, as others have said, a 15" woofer plus a 3-5" full range makes a good compromise.
Just to add, if you Grandfather is in his 80's then as we all get older the top octaves of our hearing slowly reduced so that anything over around 13khz may well be inaudible and below that there will be less sensitivity so going for a design with a bit of boost in the mid-upper range may well work well, even though to those much younger it may sound top end heavy (slightly too bright).
The MarKen designs are pretty conventional, can be made to look really nice and the one using the "10" alpair speakers may also fit the bill. There is one version that has the MarKen on top and a lower cabinet for dual subwoofers that would do the job. Add a minidsp 2x4 as others have said to manage the crossover, massage the sound and sort out room effects and you are on your way.
Frugal-phile | Box Library / Mark Audio
Common sense Audio have a number of designs from a fairly simple Bass Reflex but I think from memory they have some open baffle designs as well.
Audio Nirvana, Lowther, and Fostex Full Range DIY speaker kits and amplifiers. 3 inches to 15 inches. Vacuum tube amplifiers. The world's best sound at prices anyone can afford.
But, as others have said, a 15" woofer plus a 3-5" full range makes a good compromise.
Just to add, if you Grandfather is in his 80's then as we all get older the top octaves of our hearing slowly reduced so that anything over around 13khz may well be inaudible and below that there will be less sensitivity so going for a design with a bit of boost in the mid-upper range may well work well, even though to those much younger it may sound top end heavy (slightly too bright).
The MarKen designs are pretty conventional, can be made to look really nice and the one using the "10" alpair speakers may also fit the bill. There is one version that has the MarKen on top and a lower cabinet for dual subwoofers that would do the job. Add a minidsp 2x4 as others have said to manage the crossover, massage the sound and sort out room effects and you are on your way.
Frugal-phile | Box Library / Mark Audio
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nrstly -
Beaming is an issue starting at pretty low frequencies, right in the vocal band. That is a very good reason why there are excellent single-drivers as small as three & four Inches in diameter. (For very specific genres & with a powered sub or two, the mighty ScanSpeak 5F, at two Inches, is outstanding.) However, as in the case of very small drivers, such the 5F & the Fostex FE83En & FF85WK, they are not fully full-range. The bigger you go, the much better the bottom gets, but the dispersion gets worse. My personal preference is for more dispersion at the expense of bass response. A good balance is about five Inches. That’s one reason why I bought Lowther DX55 drivers.
We prefer single-drivers because of the absence of a crossover in the critical mid-band. I simply can’t stand hearing two drivers at the same time. The point-source effect is critical for me. A good coaxial, as krivium helpfully pointed out, is an option in this regard. However, at least on paper, the high frequency response is often frightening. In practice, it could be a whole different story. A four to six Inch coax could be an excellent choice. Trying that is on my list.
Another decision is the cabinet. Chris is right: An OB can have lots of problems. Backloaded horns, of some variety, are common. Bass reflexes are quite common, and the mass loaded transmission line shows up here & there. My favorite, sealed, is quite uncommon.
Single-drivers are very genre-specific, in my experience & to MY tastes. They seem to excel at Jazz, small ensemble & solo instrument classical, “girl-and-guitar”, and folk. Most rock & orchestral music don’t do well. These are not hard-and-fast rules, by any means. They will vary according to personal preferences.
Single-drivers are highly attractive to first-time builders. However, one driver in a box actually requires the builder or designer to make hard design choices & opens up a whole range of compromises & tweaks.
I really hope we haven’t scared you. I love speaker building. It’s a continual learning process. A sub-sat system might be best in order to get your feet wet. There are dozens of options once you choose a vented alignment. Two small powered subs would give you a lot of flexibility.
Keep asking questions!
Regards,
Karl
Beaming is an issue starting at pretty low frequencies, right in the vocal band. That is a very good reason why there are excellent single-drivers as small as three & four Inches in diameter. (For very specific genres & with a powered sub or two, the mighty ScanSpeak 5F, at two Inches, is outstanding.) However, as in the case of very small drivers, such the 5F & the Fostex FE83En & FF85WK, they are not fully full-range. The bigger you go, the much better the bottom gets, but the dispersion gets worse. My personal preference is for more dispersion at the expense of bass response. A good balance is about five Inches. That’s one reason why I bought Lowther DX55 drivers.
We prefer single-drivers because of the absence of a crossover in the critical mid-band. I simply can’t stand hearing two drivers at the same time. The point-source effect is critical for me. A good coaxial, as krivium helpfully pointed out, is an option in this regard. However, at least on paper, the high frequency response is often frightening. In practice, it could be a whole different story. A four to six Inch coax could be an excellent choice. Trying that is on my list.
Another decision is the cabinet. Chris is right: An OB can have lots of problems. Backloaded horns, of some variety, are common. Bass reflexes are quite common, and the mass loaded transmission line shows up here & there. My favorite, sealed, is quite uncommon.
Single-drivers are very genre-specific, in my experience & to MY tastes. They seem to excel at Jazz, small ensemble & solo instrument classical, “girl-and-guitar”, and folk. Most rock & orchestral music don’t do well. These are not hard-and-fast rules, by any means. They will vary according to personal preferences.
Single-drivers are highly attractive to first-time builders. However, one driver in a box actually requires the builder or designer to make hard design choices & opens up a whole range of compromises & tweaks.
I really hope we haven’t scared you. I love speaker building. It’s a continual learning process. A sub-sat system might be best in order to get your feet wet. There are dozens of options once you choose a vented alignment. Two small powered subs would give you a lot of flexibility.
Keep asking questions!
Regards,
Karl
I forgot to add that I would use that very generous budget very carefully. Choose inexpensive drivers & construction materials for a first project. As someone mentioned, kits are a great choice. The Madisound BK-12m backloaded horn kit is very well-documented & well-regarded. I almost bought a pair, but I chose to go in a different direction. The amplifier & source need to be considered along with the speakers; they form a system. Class D & T amps are an attractive option. However, there is a range of quality, not always tied to price point. I have some experience with several amp boards & single-drivers. You may PM me if you want my opinions.
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This is not full range but since you mentioned $1000... You can get a Mackie HR624 MkII professional monitor with a 6.5in woofer 1in titanium tweeter, cabinet with passive radiator and built in Class AB amp and active crossover that is THX certified (very tough for DIY speakers to get this) for exactly $1000/pair.
Specs:
https://mackie.com/sites/default/files/PRODUCT RESOURCES/SPECS/Spec_Sheets/HR624MK2_SS.pdf
Owner's manual:
https://mackie.com/sites/default/files/PRODUCT RESOURCES/MANUALS/Owners_Manuals/HR624mk2_OM.pdf
It would be very tough to DIY something this capable with amp and XO, cabinets etc for $1000. Just a thought if you are only looking for the result and not the journey of making it yourself.
Specs:
https://mackie.com/sites/default/files/PRODUCT RESOURCES/SPECS/Spec_Sheets/HR624MK2_SS.pdf
Owner's manual:
https://mackie.com/sites/default/files/PRODUCT RESOURCES/MANUALS/Owners_Manuals/HR624mk2_OM.pdf
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It would be very tough to DIY something this capable with amp and XO, cabinets etc for $1000. Just a thought if you are only looking for the result and not the journey of making it yourself.
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Yeah, but the original poster wanted a 10" driver so I figured the 12" would be closer.
I have the HR824 mk1 which has an 8” vifa P22WP01 driver, passive radiator, 1” metal dome tweeter and 150w woofer + 100w tweeter active amp in each. They are great monitors, rated at 37hz at -3db and they do dig pretty deep. Also they are a little more musical/hifi that the usual flat studio monitors. I picked up a second hand pair that needed a woofer rubber surround (£7 plus p&p from Netherlands) and the cabinets are a bit shabby, mainly the front vinyl covering for £200. A decent pair are about £400 for the mk1 or £700 for mk2.
I can recommend these highly, they were £1400 new so for me a bit of a bargain and as @xrk971 says, difficult to beat.
Sorry, missed the 30min edit window, full version below.
I have the HR824 mk1 which has an 8” vifa P22WP01 driver, passive radiator, 1” metal dome tweeter and 150w woofer + 100w tweeter active amp in each. They are great monitors, rated at 37hz at -3db and they do dig pretty deep. Also they are a little more musical/hifi that the usual flat studio monitors. I picked up a second hand pair that needed a woofer rubber surround (£7 plus p&p from Netherlands) and the cabinets are a bit shabby, mainly the front vinyl covering for £200. A decent pair are about £400 for the mk1 or £700 for mk2.
You could buy a pair of second hand hr824, and do what I am planning when I get some time. That is, strip off the vinyl front, fiil and sand and then spray in metallic paint, the front plate is a single piece cast aluminium which again can be prepped and painted maybe in a contrasting colour. Then re-veneer (zebrano, olive, wenga etc.) the sides, prepare and do a high gloss lacquer and you will have a unique and very good sounding speaker for £500.
I use mine with a chrome cast audio (or use an old CD player) and a passive preamp (I have SM Pro M-Patch v2 but also Tisbury ore and NVA P20) and they sound really good. Add a decent dac (chord mojo) and you have a cracking system.
I can recommend these highly, they were £1400 new so for me a bit of a bargain and as @xrk971 says, difficult to beat.
I have the HR824 mk1 which has an 8” vifa P22WP01 driver, passive radiator, 1” metal dome tweeter and 150w woofer + 100w tweeter active amp in each. They are great monitors, rated at 37hz at -3db and they do dig pretty deep. Also they are a little more musical/hifi that the usual flat studio monitors. I picked up a second hand pair that needed a woofer rubber surround (£7 plus p&p from Netherlands) and the cabinets are a bit shabby, mainly the front vinyl covering for £200. A decent pair are about £400 for the mk1 or £700 for mk2.
You could buy a pair of second hand hr824, and do what I am planning when I get some time. That is, strip off the vinyl front, fiil and sand and then spray in metallic paint, the front plate is a single piece cast aluminium which again can be prepped and painted maybe in a contrasting colour. Then re-veneer (zebrano, olive, wenga etc.) the sides, prepare and do a high gloss lacquer and you will have a unique and very good sounding speaker for £500.
I use mine with a chrome cast audio (or use an old CD player) and a passive preamp (I have SM Pro M-Patch v2 but also Tisbury ore and NVA P20) and they sound really good. Add a decent dac (chord mojo) and you have a cracking system.
I can recommend these highly, they were £1400 new so for me a bit of a bargain and as @xrk971 says, difficult to beat.
If going for a 10", I would suggest using a small 2.5-4" Fullrange in combination with a 10" bass, it will give you better sound per investment and amount of work.
Would you like to make a floorstander or a bookshelf speaker?
I have the Fane 15" fullrange myself, quite pleased with it. The 12" version also seems to have a good reputation.
Would you like to make a floorstander or a bookshelf speaker?
I have the Fane 15" fullrange myself, quite pleased with it. The 12" version also seems to have a good reputation.
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Thanks guys, for your generosity and help. At last I decided to buy that Xizi Audio driver from Amazon because the seller will offer a conception for the case and they promised that the outcome will be pleasant. Anyway it's worth a trying because I will get a friend to test it after arrival and if that does not work well, I can return and get my money back. Now it's about time to consider all the woodwork stuff.
To be honest, it's a great fortune to come into this forum and meet you guys who are so kind-hearted and not hesitated a second to help a rookie like me. After this project done I will continue my adventure on audio DIY and hope that one day I can be as expertized as you.
To be honest, it's a great fortune to come into this forum and meet you guys who are so kind-hearted and not hesitated a second to help a rookie like me. After this project done I will continue my adventure on audio DIY and hope that one day I can be as expertized as you.
8000$ for something not working? Wow, that worries me a little... But I hope things to go well at least judging by the specification it looks good:
Rated power------25W
Maximum Power------45W
Nominal impedance Z------8 Ohm
Frequency response-------fu-20000Hz
Mean sound pressure level------99 dB(2,83/1m)
Resonance frequency fs------33Hz
Magnetic induction------1.6T
Total Q factor Qts------0.45
Equivalent volume Vas------120L
I'm a little impatient now because it's been 3 days but the tracking status is still "pending"...
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