What are you doing with your new Teres Bearing

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Platter

I have chosen to go with the composite material. I was able to purchase 2 - 3/8 X1' squares as well as 2 1" X 1' squares. I plan to use my router circle jig to create 11 3/4" disk and bond the 1" peices together and drill 12 - 1 1/2 holes to put lead shot into and then bond the 3/8 peices to them. Then i plan to kerf 1/4 X3" Cocobolo and wrap it and cover the top with same. I will post some pictures when I get off my sorry butt and do it.

Bill
 
I had some polished 1/4" thick stainless steel plate from last summer,then just few weeks ago I bought two 8 feet long 2x6 solid maple wood,the actual dimensions are 1-1/2 X 5-1/2.I cut the maple into shorter pieces to joint them into two seperate butcher blocks.I will try to stack the 1-1/2" thick butcher blocks ,between the sheets of stainless steel plates.The final plinth will be composed of a bottom layer of 1/4"stainless steel plate,then 1-1/2" maple block,another 1/4" stainless steel plate,then the second 1-1/2" maple block,ant top 1/4" stainless steel plate.The final plinth will be 3-3/4" thick.Overall dimensions will be 13-1/2" X 16-1/2" with rounded corners.It is basically the rectangular table as showing at Teres .I run my plan through with Chris Brady and he liked it. For feet I got four aluminum Billy Bags tip toes meant to be used for their pro amp stands.They seem to match my design esthetically and they are big and solid,so if I don't find some better alternative I will be using those.
I was told by a machinist to bolt the materials for my plinth together first and then he will mill the whole stuck to ensure uniform edges.He said it will cost about 300-400$ for the milling and another $80 for shearing my plates down closer to size.The two stainless steel plates at the moment are 20-/12 X 26-3/4.
For arm I will be using the Rega RB1000 and possibly the Denon DL103 cartridge.
I don't have a platter yet and would like to know if other people would like to joint for a group buy to purschase a Teres type acrylic platter,I have a machinist who is highly skilled and can produce them for us.The more we order the lower the price per platter will be.

George
 
I am constructing one so I will have no need for a group buy. It is such an expensive item to manufacture and ship. Chris is dropping his 200 series turntable and abandoning acrylic platters. I am convinced while they had their day their are better materials out there. I will be posting my progress on my platter as I make some, as usual work and life is attempting to disrupt progress. If the design works out sourcing raw materials may not be so prohibitive and allowing the final assembly to be performed at the destination a better DIY solution.

Bill
 
Ed LaFontaine said:
"Please review my design" by Kilowattski

&

"Corian turntable fun" by valveitude

There are some references there for platter balance. Can someone point out more balance references?



The design changed a little

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.



An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I have not taken pictures in a while but I am using an SME IV tonearm and Clearaudio Maestro Tonearm.
 
Kilowattski
Magnificent work,thanks for loading up pictures.Can you tell us a little more about the platter,dimensions,where did you get the material?I looked at mcmaster.com but they only carry 12x12 stock,next size up is 18x18 and too costly.Is your platter 12.25"diameter?
Regards
George
 
I have just bought 2x wood laminated chopping blocks for the contruction of the platter. May be having 6x holes 40mmx40mm for lead shots to increase rotational inertial.
 

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I had alot of help from Vinyl Addict as I am a rookie machinist. I am an EE by trade. I got the acryllic from a local supplier. I got it for only $100 as it was a remnant from another job they were doing. The platter is 2.75" thick and 12.25" in diameter. I used the Teres bearing, Maxon Motor and controller from the group buy. The Plinth is loaded with lead shot and silicone fluid. The motor pod is also loaded with lead shot and silicone fluid. The platter was cut on a Haas CNC machine (I wrote the G-code) then turned for roundnes and smoothness. The plinth was also machined on a CNC machine. I took a long time, working on it when I could, but I am happy with the results.
 
Here they are after machining, I used a router with a circle cutter and a hole saw. While the material is quite machinable I dulled my router bit and hole saw. The good news is it has a high melt point so it makes machining easier than plastic. The supplier I purchased from does offer CNC machining and I would recommend it as you are looking at about 6-8 hrs work, but my labor is free. I did quite a bit of research on glue to bond these, the problem lies is you cannot fuse this material. It is so inert they use it for lab bench tops. Phenol glue is what is used to glue plywood together. The best product I was to determine was Loctite Black Max 380 it is a Toughened Ethyl. I put one drop on a couple of scraps and allowed them to dry 24 hrs to dry. I was unable to break them apart.
 

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Originally posted by wirewiggler

Here is what I am using it is a paper impregnated phenolic. It is available in various thickness. I went with 2- 1'X1'X3/8" and 2-1'X1'X1" square blanks. I bought them from http://www.polymerplastics.com/composite_xpc.shtml, but this site has them as well and a good spec on the product http://www.sdplastics.com/phenolic.html.

These should read http://www.polymerplastics.com/composite_xpc.shtml and http://www.sdplastics.com/phenolic.html. 😉

Thanks for sharing these sources.

Regards.

Aengus
 
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